SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Is it cheaper to buy my own MDF and make a box than having professionals at a audio store do it? I plan on having a SA-12 and a box Ported tuned to about 32hz with about 1.7 cubic ft of space. I have the measurements and such. I used the re audio box calculator. I can get help from my woodshop teacher and some friends but I'm curious if it's cheaper. Idk how much they charge at the audio store but I'm sure it's not cheap. And another thing how good is birch over MDF? I can get birch free but everyone tells me MDF sounds better. Build would be musical and everyday driver not spl. Thanks guys can't wait to hear from you all.

I wanna know if I could build a 4th order bandpass box for 4 12" subs in the trunk of my cavalier? I have a Soundstream Rubicon 2500D amp and a Kinetic1200 under the hood and a 2400 in the trunk. Thought about something sort of like this but, not too sure it would work with being such a small trunk...Just need some help tryin to figure out if I should do it or not. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=5362d8048075cdd16b752e7529d36aed[/media]

instead of continuing to hijack ryan's pic thread, i figured i'd start this up in here.... my opinion, based on talking to a few world champs and experience.. bracing is overrated. as is double baffles. they should only be used of the sub is extremely heavy, u have a really long, flat straight stretch or u are using vast amounts of power. for everyday box building, the box isn't going to flex enough for anyone to hear, see or notice a loss from. in most cases, if designed properly, the port can act as the bracing. for the most part, the best thing u can do for ur ported box is round off all port angles, but even then, for everyday use, it isn't necessary. to gain tenths o…

As the title says...I have 14.25 cubes available. I want to run 2 zcon 18's. I don't know anything at all whatsoever about designing a box. With that said, after subtracting driver displacement, port displacement, and bracing, will I have enough room? If not I have a Zcon 18" Dual 2 for sale lawl

So I only have bought pre fabbed boxes... Yes I know I am a lame person. The boxes are probably not to spec. And the boxes I usually get are cheap and are usually sealed. So I have been doing a lot of research and I think that the next box I want to BUILD is going to be a ported box. I know this scares me because of how hard it is going to be but I think I can handle it... If not it is a learning process. I am getting a Icon 12 dual 2ohm sub. My uncle who lives here does flooring and has tools/experience with wood working and stuff. Also what he does have experience with is fiberglassing and also doing carbon fiber in the hull inside his jet ski to make it stronger. I …

Discuss.

Hey all.I was wondering if my port is to close to my rear hatch.My friends and I both seem to think my system should be louder and I seem to think that it might be my port being to close to my rear hatch and not having enough room to breathe.My system consists of a DC 5k and 4 10" DC lvl 3 m2 subs with the level 4 upgrades.My enclosure was made by DC Creations and is 4.5 cubes after displacments (I believe) and tuned to 33hz.Here is a pic of what im talking about with the port.I can take a better pic if need be.So what im wondering is if I flip the box around with the port facing into the cabin instead of towards the hatch,would it help out any or would a enclosure with s…

whaaaaaat. The wires in the terminals are a little cleaner now, had to adjust them some. But they are bad ass custom brass terminals. no ring terminals! see ya at finals...

okay guys i have finished everything on my box expect the circle for the sub and the hole for the wires.. my friends router is broken now and no one seems to have one.. what tool can i purchase that is CHEAP and works alright.. it doesnt have to be perfect...

I've decided to build a box for my 15" SSD that will fit in my trunk. I was wondering if these numbers sound right or what it really should be. Lol Box will be 28" wide, 17" tall, and 22" deep. Port is 3.5" wide and 21 inches long. Looking to be around 4cuft tuned around 31- 33hz Does this sound right?? If not help is very appreciated!

Can someone check my work, to verify I am gaining maximum beneficial value from the bracing? From my understanding the bracing has two primary functions, other than structural support. To keep two panels from having the same resonate frequency, and to break up standing waves. Is there any adjustments I should make? Will I benefit from routeing the bracing edges round? Should I add a few randomly placed triangle braces? Remove the diagonals from the center brace? This is my first enclosure with matrix bracing, so I could have a big red flag in there and wouldn't know it. The enclosure is built for two SSA 15" Icons sealed, running 2000 watts total. The final …

Whats out there thats relatively beginner friendly? I want to see if I can do a ported box for 3 MJM-18s or 2 IXL-12.2.2s..

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

Looking for some tips on the trunk set-up. I have an 18" BL in there currently that is upfiring as it is the only arrangement I could use and still get it in the trunk. I'm looking at switching to a 15" though and can change it around if you guys have tried anything that works well. Firing into seats, firing back, port arrangement. stuff like that that I was unable to with the 18". Looking to save some time before I start tuning!! maybe you guys have had some good tips for me to start with. Any other good trunk tips would be appreciated to. If I compete with this in my car, it'll be a first. I've typically only competed with hatchbacks

Okay so many designs and tunnings have been done at this point any new ideas will help!! Car freq: 50-51hz box tunned to 48hz 145.2db 8.2cbs boxtunned to 43hz 148.8 db 5.2cbs boxtunned to 38hz 147.1db 5.2 cbs boxtunned to 32hz 145.6db 5.4 cbs all boxes are vented box style subs firing up. box tunned to 38hz 3-3'' aeros 4.0 cubes 143.5db boxtunned to 45hz 3-3" aeros 4.0 cubes 139.0 db subs up ports back also tried firing to left side of car then right no change all recorded loses?????? any help will be great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks,

Hey, I just built my first box. 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 34hz, for under the seat of a 2003 Silverado. The box sounds great, but looks horrible. So, my questions are. Do you use wood glue to hold the box together? Or just screws? Do you use screws or nails? What type of silicone do you use to seal the box? Help is greatly appreciated. And for those wondering; the box was built for an RE Audio SX 10", so far we've tested it with a Soundstream SPL 10" and it sounds great, the RE should be here in a few days.

Im tryin to see if anyone can custom fiberglass me some door panels, entire door panels for both of my doors of my car. I know some companies locally that do it but they charge extremely, i mean EXTREMELY large amounts of money for it. To give you an example, they charge $1,500 to do a 14cuft wall in my car.... i dont know why they told me that a while back but that's not what i wanted from them anyway because i know how expensive they are. I'm lookin to spend no more than $300 per door. Is that too low? I can't find anything for a Scion tC.

I have really thinking about trying to run surround sound into my car but don't want to spend very much I want to keep my active 3way system I should be wiring this week, cross-overed in my deck I like my alpine 7998. What options do I have no cheap junk like pyle please

i have been working on not using the stupid ass re calc and doing everything on my own. how does this look. height 16 width 30 depth 20 with a 4 inch wide port 33.80839511415706 inches long tuned to 32 hz.

any body have it its impossible to find

I am ready to buy enclosure design software, I want all the features available. I am thinking of buying Term-Pak. With Term-Pak I can later purchase Term-LAB meter as well. Term-Pak includes Term-Pro and Term-CAD 3D. Is this the best that is available? It looks like it was written in the early 90's.

I know this question has been posted before all over, but many of the discussions just turn into b***hfests, and no straight good answer is given. Would stuffing (polyfill etc...), or lining (vibration damper, mlv, etc...) a properly sized and well built box make any difference on the sound quality/characteristics of the subwoofer it contains? I'm looking for one good answer please, not a million random opinions. My head is just in a daze after looking at how many odd forum posts that don't answer the question I'm posing. Thanks to anyone who has good knowledge on this topic!