SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm looking into aero porting my box for my 15 so I can save room instead of building the box around the port. According to the Torres Box Calc 20x20x20 gives me a gross of 3.66ft3. .2ft3 sub displacement, double baffle, .01ft3 bracing (estimated) and a single 6" aero from psp, puts me at almost exactly 3 cubes at 38hz. The sub is an AA Havoc 15 on a MB Quart discus 1500.1. So now my question is, I know 12-16in2 generic rule, but the calc says my suggested port area is 28-40in2, and the 6in give me 28.26in2. Is that enough port area using an aero? its only 9.14in2 per foot. sub would face back and the port up, or sub up port back either way. I'm trying to stay within 35-3…

i know ive been asking a lot of questions but ive finally decided on all my equipment the only thing left is getting the box right. it will be a 12" type r fifth gen on an audioque 1200. ive built aero port boxes before but never a slot port. ive always done it with a single sub setup having the sub behind the passenget seat and the aero port out the side on the driver side. the box will be around 1.75^3 to 2.0. im just wondering the best box to get full potential out of the setup

Hello all, I have been a traditional sealed box kind of guy, but I want to try something different. I am going to build a bandpass box for some SA-10's that will be pushed by a SAZ-1500Dv2. The port will be pushing through a ski hole in the back seat. The sub that I have now fires through the port, but I am hoping to eliminate some of the trunk rattles by creating a port that extends through the ski pass. I have taken a few pics to give you guys an idea of what I am trying to do. I want to fire through a port where the homemade ski pass, the trunk is sealed very well, so I opted to cut a hole. I have come up with some figures for the SA-10s by using an online ca…

HU: Pioneer P99RS Amp for front stage: Arc Audio KS900.6 Tweets: LGP 25NFA Mids: JL Audio 4" Midbass: JL Audio 8" Amp for sub: Sundown SAZ-1500D v.3 Sub: (2) Fi Audio IB315 I think I have my front stage dialed in pretty good. My tuning includes, gain level setting, t/a, phase adjustment, rta (not relied on heavily), eq balance adjustments and crossover setting. Not in that order but those are some adjustments I made. I also meet with a MECA multi champion who was very helpful in the tuning process. The two biggest issues my setup has right now is slight smearing to the right side and I would really like the soundstage to be wider. The smearing of the center image is ver…

Just spent the past hour trying to understand the entire deal with box specs and this is what I got Didn't really do any displacement math which is why I put in the Tuning Freq. at 26 Figured after all displacements highest it'd be would be at highest around 35 Hz Anyone see any design flaws with this? The Box is going in a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I listen to Rock/Rap but more so Rap music.

Hello everybody I'm new here. I worked as a car audio and alarm installer 15 years ago. I have not had a decent system since...well...a long time. I bought a 1997 Honda Odyssey and I really like the van. I'd like to build a nice system. Can you give me suggestions on what components to use for a nice simple front sound stage that focuses on sound quality? I like "vocally" music. I also like dubstep and house music. I really like vocally dubstep. I also listen to talk-radio. I am thinking I am going to use a SSA DCON or GCON for bass. Maybe a SKAR 800.1 for a sub amp. I have no idea what components to use for the mids and highs. The head unit is a JVC KD-X50BT. I bought th…

I've got an 15" Audiopulse Axis running on a Sundown 3000, Ive got another Axis that should be here tomorrow. I was thinking about making a sealed box for both of them, but I dont know whether to do a common chamber or separate chambers. What are the pros and cons of each?

ok so im designing a box for two 12 inch xcons, ported going into my 2007 scion tc(Hatchback). Right now i have a decent box but its time for a rebuild. My box right now is 40.5 inches wide, 20 inches deep, and 17 inches high behind the rear seats. Its tuned at about 29-31 htz(not too sure). It does a 143.7 on the meter sealed up on the glass. No deadening, no beauty panels. But my concern is that my port is an Lport on the drivers side, it only goes halfway across the box so one woofer is above the port and the other is not. Im worried that the sub above the port is loading off of it and the other is not. If it is i want to fix this, so a rebuild is underway. It has bee…

I am in the process of redoing my front stage. It will be an active three way. My head unit is a Pioneer DEX-P99RS and my amplifier for my front stage is an Arc Audio KS900.6. My goals for my front stage is to have excellent mid bass and to create a realistic soundstage with excellent imaging. To kick of my install I started with the midbass. I currently have a Viper 650.2 component set (running active) installed for midrange/tweeter duties. I will be replacing the Viper set. My midbass install consists of Dayton Audio RS225-4 drivers mounted in very tiny (.2-.3^3ft) sealed enclosures with ScanSpeak flow resistors. The ScanSpeak flow resistors are AP mats about 4" in diam…

Let me start out by saying that I have been out of the car audio game for some time, and I have never been as concerned with SPL as much as I have been with overall sound quality. It has been a mystery to me for some time as to why no one uses high efficiency subwoofers: for example a pro audio subwoofer. If the main concern is to get loud, why is this option never mentioned or even discussed. Many car audio subwoofers I see are in the range of 85-90 dB at 1 watt measured at 1 meter. Maybe closer to low 90s for a large woofer. On the other hand, many pro audio speakers have much higher efficiency, 95dB+ for 1 watt at 1 meter. To me it seems that efficiency would be…

So I decided to post this outside my build log to see if anyone might have any ideas to help me solve this issue. Equipment: SLS 8inch Midbass Drivers running 60hz - around 200 i think. Mounted in the doors w/ a pretty solid treatment of SDS MLV, CCF, and CLD. Shitty GM doors aside, its a pretty solid installation. kicker 250.2 bridge to each side Description of problem: Midbass from left side is quieter by rough 1/2 to the ear w/ an 80Hz sine wave tone (measures around 8dB lower IIRC). I don't remember there being a huge difference between left and right previously, though I didn't really touch the stereo for over a year. My understanding of …

Vechicle is BMW 7 series... The cabin is so well sealed, that not much bass has been entering the cabin of the vehicle. It's stuck in the trunk. I'm thinking about doing a new ported enclosure that would face the rear seats, and is completely sealed from the trunk. Hopefully, it will force more air through the armrest ski-pass...I'm trying this because I don't really want to slice up the rear deck. So the question is, should I leave a few inches between the box and the rear seats or build the port so that it extends into the ski-pass and seal that as well? The goal being maximum output, of course... Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'm looking into buying a Soundstream xxx18 and i have a few questions. First of all, here are the specs from the website. SPL Tuned Enclosure XXX-18 Min. Vented (ft.3) 4.00 Port (dia. x length) (4) 4x15 Fb (Hz) 49.91 F3 (Hz) 43.54 Opt. Vented (ft.3) 6.00 Port (dia. x length) (3) 6x13.5 Fb (Hz) 50.00 F3 (Hz) 42.71 Max. Vented (ft.3) 8.00 Port (dia. x length) (4) 6x12 Fb (Hz) 49.84 F3 (Hz) 42.24 Low Tuned Enclosure XXX-18 Min. Vented (ft.3) 4.00 Port (dia. x length) (3)4x18 Fb (Hz) 39.97 F3 (Hz) 36.81 Opt. Vented (ft.3) 6.00 Port (dia. x length) (2)6x22 Fb (Hz) 35.00 F3 (Hz) 32.18 Max. Vented (ft.3) 8.00 Port (dia. x length) (2)6…

Would anyone like to help me design a box? please and thank you! here's all the info i can share so far, until i can get some measurements. 16" depth x 24" tall x 48" wide 2 12" d1 xcon's sundown 3000d ported anywhere from 28-33hz this will be my first dual sub setup and i have no idea where to start. i'd like to keep the box 5cu ft or smaller (if possible) thanks in advanced and hopefully tomorrow or the next few days, i can get some solid measurements to work with.

i've been making and tweaking a box calculator the last few months. it's come along nicely i'd say. it's been over on *** (i'm ExpoSport over there...and if it's possible to change this name to ExpoSport me love you long time so after getting it tweaked to a good point i figured i'd share it elsewhere now. one thing that is still in the works is an open/save feature so you can save designs instead of printing or writing them down everytime. this is mainly for square/slot ports. plain boxes will be easier to do, but if you build a box in the car for example, you'd need to figure out the volume on your own and then fill the boxes in accordingly to get that volume, and then…

What’s up ladies and gentlemen of the car audio world? Today I bring to you the all inclusive Fiberglass Amp Rack 101 Lesson! Allow me to insert my shameless plug and say that if you enjoy any part of this tutorial, or learned something new, please post a comment, rank this thread, and share with your friends! Also I love when I get new subscribers on my YouTube channel! (www.youtube.com/caraudiofabrication ) Other than that let’s review what you will learn shall we? http://youtu.be/YUEUAhttGts Intro: First off I know I know, this looks like a ton of reading, and a ton of work, but it really is not, it just seems that way because I am outlining every thing I have learned …

I have a DC Level 4 18 m2 on the way and i want to make the box before ite gets here (cuz im so impatient) going in a 99 grand cherokee listen to all types of music but i do like playing down to like 27 hz or so powered by an american bass HD 3500 (1600rms) id like double baffles max dim are 40 wide 30 deep and 20 tall i think that about covers what is needed. any help would be awesome! thanks guys

Why is it that many many build lately have a box similar to this: (no math was used- just a visual interpretation) I guess what I don't understand is how those lil flaps on each side are a port....just seems like an open hole to me. Are these boxes more musicl or SPL oriented? i am assuming SPL, as most that I see are in competition vehicles.

Okay SSA Forums, I NEED HELP FROM SMART MINDS! I Ordered (2) SA-10's and a Crescendo BC2000D also a Shuriken 1800w Deep Cycle And some Kicker 0 AWG. I have Rockford Gold plated RCA's, Rockford 8G wire for speakers, And I NEED A DESIGN FOR A 1/4 WAVE T-line for an SQ Build. Or a folded horn Design @ 27Hz , Im Ordering (8) Selenium 6" Mids, And (8) Selenium Super tweeters, I want to know what's a good 250w Crossover For 150HZ-8,000Hz, And then 3000Hz And up for the tweets, Im also Getting Into the MECA SQ Comps if I can, Ill be switching it up and tuning, and seeing the best of the best I hope, maybe a home made Class D Full range 4 channel amp. I NEED HELP WITH A T-LINE D…

So I'm looking for great demo songs to demonstrate the SQ installs out there! Songs that demonstrate depth, warmth, vocal isolation and instrumental detail.

Hotcarl was kind enough to send me a design someone had made up for him for a SS RL-i 8. I wanted to see if you guys could take a look at it for me and see what you think. I personally have never designed or built a TL. Not to mention I will not have time to build this any time soon, so don't ask for progress pictures

I have my gcon in and it absolutely exceeds my expectations so now onto the next project. I want to go 3 way active and do a good door install. I have plenty of mdf and some mdf rings already. I also have duct seal to help add mass to the baffles. My goal is to increase midbass and keep the top end sparkle hence why I want to go 3 way instead of trying to pair a dedicated midbass with a tweeter or fullrange. My doors have a 6.5" speaker and a 2.5" speaker stock so that's what I am working with. I cannot alter the outside appearance of the door panel. My constraints are: Midbass: 6.5-7" and max of 3.5" deep Midrange: 2-3.5" and max of 3" deep. The tweeter is mounted above …

well I really miss my back seat. Right now I have a false floor and a box back there. I want to do a blow through really bad. I dont know how to make the box though. The sub is an 18" Fi Audio BTL. I cant mount it vertically because the sub is taller then the bed. It will have to be at some type of an angle. Then I run into the problem of how to make the actual box and how it comes into the cab.Any help would be awesome and if someone could draw up something really nice there could be some cash involved. Right now im running around 7 cubes and ported to 31 hz..I want it to be tuned low cuz it kills the lows with the 18"..Thanks for the help. Here is what it looks like rig…

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

How can one calculate the box rise and how does the shape of the box, etc. affect box rise? I am interested because I want to wire my subs down to .5 ohms, and I hear that it probably wont be an issue because of "box rise."