SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have a great interest in the science of box design and I've seen several examples around the 'net of folks building high-power series-tuned 6th order bandpass boxes for SPL purposes. One common design theme seems to be to purposefully undersize the rear port, the reason given is for "cone control". This appears counter-productive to me because the frequency where port velocity will be the highest, and thus having an undersized port will have the most effect (whatever that effect may be), is at the tuning frequency when cone excursion is at a minimum anyway. It seems to me all these guys are doing is making a 6th order bandpass that becomes a 4th order basspass with a…

I'm considering the soundqubed hdc4 15. I'm not sure what order this is, or anything like that as i am a complete noob to building a box to specs. I've built more than a hundred enclosures in my life, but never one to exact measurements. they've always sounded good. in fact, I've had people ask how many 15's i had, when it was just 1 12. I've blown 2-12's & 2-15's out of the water with just 1 12 on multiple occasions. different boxes, cars, subs, etc... now onto my question. i plan on making the top of the enclosure 6" away from the sub. of course the port is going to be around 4x8 or 10 but i was wondering if 6" is enough room for that sub. the enclosure is 40x18x1…

Anyone ever built a box for 99-06 ext can gmc or Chevy truck? I am trying to make one but don't have my truck until 2 weeks from now since it's getting painted. I mainly just need some max dimensions or an existing design. I appreciate any help

So I get through most of the sketch up of a new box and it hits me... My port is 6" wide and where it ends is 6.75" away from the wall of the enclosure. Even though it is more space than the total width of the port, I assume it is close enough that it will effectively create another bend in the port and add more length than I want? It's late, I'm tired, and I think I just wasted the last hour. fml I am curious, at what point does the port end and the perpendicular wall change port length? How close, or far do they need to be?

I have a 12" fi Q that is fully loaded, except there is no extra spider option, and no high qts option. I also have a Sundown SCV-2000d, big 3, XS Power d3400, and an XS Power XP950 in the trunk for power. I figure after all losses/drops I should be getting around 1700w rms of clean power to the sub. For mide I have 2x 6.5" Sundown Neo Pro V2's and some Image Dynamics CTX65SC's for components up front. Hopefully having some dedicated mid bass drivers will work well with a bandpass enclosure, so that I can tune that to hit the low notes and roll off right into where the Neo Pro's will take over. Lastly, It is being installed in a 2013 Subaru WRX. After some deliberation I…

Do any of you know what software 'HexiBase' is using to make his enclosures? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VFx37kz5Ww It would be awesome to have a bit of a play around with it to see how my current system stacks up. Thanks in advance

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

I'm going to be building a second enclosure for my Fi Bl 15. For my first enclosure I made it out of Birch Plywood so what I was wondering was if Cherry, walnut or poplar would be good for a box?

I Currently have 2 12" Memphis Audio PR's in a dual ported box powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 with stock electrical. The system is in a 2011 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have been wanting to play around with new subs and I got a crazy good deal on a single 12" Kicker CVR CompVR Series sub with a sealed box that fits two 12" subs with their own chamber. When I ask this question, keep in mind that I want to keep my stock electrical. I am trying to find either a single or two subs that will get pretty loud off stock electrical. I want something that will get loud and I'm leaning more towards SPL. Should I build a custom box for the single 12" or should I sell the sub and the box and use t…

looking to free up some space in my nissan 350z so i'll be replace the box i built for my single sundown audio sa-10 with a stealth box. now before i do this i was wanting to know if this box will work great with my sub tune at 33-35hz instead of 39hz. The box i have now is a 1.095 cubic feet vented box tune at 35hz with the sub facing up and vent facing forward. h**p://www.ebay.com/itm/350Z-Ported-Vented-Sub-Box-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Plexiglass-Amp-Rack-39hz-/261676372251?hash=item3ced20911b&vxp=mtr

Hi all,has anyone built these ports and where can i get the formula to calculate the area and cutting angles please

2012 focus sedan. currently running a prefab decent but cheap box ..in its current position metered 138 @ 37hz sealed on the windshield. fired the box forward today and noticed it wasn't half as loud this tells me my positioning is right for this car. So my question is do you think this box is working well or should i build a new box different specs i don't compete but i like loud and low this setup is pretty good for a single 10 but i think there is room for improvement would like some opinions/box ideas my max dimensions are going to be around W x H x D 30x14x27 to easily be able to fit through trunk opening which is a must as it needs to be removable when i DJ A…

Got another addition to the family today. I have all winter to build these...so its time to ponder enclosure ideas. Building into 12"s. Going in the trunk of a 04' Grand Prix Thinking of allocating about 5 cubes to L port. Box can be deep as long as its not over 15 " tall. Was also thinking if a 4th order would be worth it, but its very hard to find info on successful sealed builds with these, So I'm taking a shot in the dark. Sub forward port forward may not fit across very well. It will be tight. But probably would work. They are very heavy drivers however, and would like to have space for bracing. Was maybe thinking aero port to driver side, or..

So I been looking on here and reading about fiberglass and my ? Is what is every body talking about when they say they mix there fiberglass with sand...or is sand another term for something else like I say Mud when I'm mixing autozone fiberglass hardener because it looks like mud to me....main reason is I want to and a couple layers to the inside of my subwoofer box with some good fiberglass or would the stuff at Walmart or home depot be good enough....

So going from my current setup to something more extravagant should spark your interest. Wanting to go with (4) SA-8 V.2's in a 4th order box with a 2:1 ratio. From what ive gathered so far on reading.. * Speakers facing sealed chamber(better cooling&so you can smell the coils if needed) * 15^3 inches of port area PER cubic feet of sealed chamber * The shorter the port the better * Ported chamber tuned to around 45-50 hz. Here is what ive come up with on Sketchup so far. Sketch is not to scale. Came up with - 2.6^3 feet in ported chamber and... - 1.3^3 feet in sealed chamber. Would love some input or constructive criticism/ advice an…

Hi, Just pick up a HDS208, Would like some help with a box design. Because i don't know how much Sd this speaker takes up. I'm just looking at a 1cuft box tune to 35hz. look at a box 14x20x10 external measurement with a 3inch aero port x 16.5 Please advise, Gao

I'm working on a box design for a single ported SA-12. I looked at the Sketchup design they have for a 1-12 ported, and I came up with this for my vehicle. It seems pretty dead on. Is the 13.5" x 2" port too narrow? The one in the Sketchup is 14" x 2" so I figure it's good. Thanks.

Hey everyone, First off I wanna apologize for changing my mind so much. My financial situation has changed, so my future setup ideas have too. Even though I have not followed through with other plans ya'll have helped me with, I have learned a lot for each comment or post I read. On to the enclosure idea. I will be getting a single SA-10 D2 as soon as my current setup sells. I will be running it off of a BRZ1200 @ 1 Ohm (for headroom). My goals are for it to be decently loud (I have had an E-12, hope to be comparable to that), and flat sounding for all music types... From dubstep to decaf to classic rock to country. It will be in my daily which is the trunk of a 2000 H…

I am quickly becoming overwhelmed trying to plan a box for my BTL. I want to rebuild, as my current box is water damaged and pretty ugly at that; not to mention, it's tiny; 5cu @ 34 before displacement, and the port is small as well, 4" x 15.5" (it was free with my woofer) My max dimensions are 34"x26"x23", and i'm aiming for a pretty low tuning, thinking 28-30hz, I like a lot of slowed music, Decaf, etc. I have a local builder, but I haven't seen any of his work in some time, so I'd feel better walking in with a design in hand, and simply having him make the cuts and assemble it. It'll end up in an SUV, so I'm thinking sub up port back, same as my current box. Would…

Alright, i was suggested to use the recommended xcon enclosure (7.65 tuned to 30) but sub up and port back apparently is better in the jeep grand cherokees. All i did was move the sub to the top, will this work? Will it load strangely with the port? Or should i just design a new box lol. like so

I am thinking about building a T-line for my 3 SSA DCON 12's. Has anybody here tried it or have any experience with T-lines? If anybody wants to give a shot at helping with the design it would be great. Before you comment that "The box will be huge!" , yes I know. Thanks.

Ok basically I had an ok box, performed well'ish, ported 2.4ft3 60sq" port @ 33hz, then I made an adaptor to sit over the front and channel the ported box into the cabin via the skii port. This worked a treat and made it much cleaner sounding and changed my tuning down to 27hz. Now, I have a new box finished I payed some $$ for and its 2.8ft3 tuned to 32hz with 50" inch of port, the concern is pretty much straight away below 32hz the sub seems to sort of get stuck in and doesnt excurt properly and have stuff all output also, what is this and what can cause it?? I know it could be a lack of backpressure in the box but the new box I thought was a much better design than m…

Hello and welcome to my version of the “How to Build a Custom Subwoofer box Tutorial”. This tutorial aims to teach you not only how to create a subwoofer box but how to add additional styling and design to make it a one of kind masterpiece. This is a four part tutorial series; a brief description of each part is given below and accompanied with a video and pictures. Enjoy! Part 1: How to Build the Box In this first video I cover the basics of a box design, incorporating bracing and 45’s and construction techniques. Part 2: Customizing the Box This video covers the design and production of custom template created insert shapes that mount to the fro…

Looking ~15^3 after displacement with 18.5 x 9 slot port on driverside tuned ~34hz since it will be at B pillar. Had talks about tuning it higher since it will b pillar (midgate) and will go lower anyway in Hz's. Also to do center ports with separate chambers instead. Will be running a Memphis Mojo 4kw and have upgraded my electrical. Looking more at a daily setup and a shared chamber with slot or separate chambers.

I was bored at work once again and was th ok nking abput a b pillar once money allows me to Whats the best port location for a flat wall b-pillar top port going aross or side port driver side with subs going up on passenger side or passenger sidee port and subs on driver side.