Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I just had a fun time fixing my charging system today so i thought i spill some info out there for ya. When you look at an alternator, you must understand it's purpose and how it will safely work. An alternator basically keeps your battery(ies) charged. In car audio, we usually tend to buy a H.O. alt because it will help run the system and\or keep the battery(ies) charged but it's not that easy! There are things you must know or damage can occur to your alt or batt(s)! 1 - If purchasing a H.O. alt, do NOT purchase only based upon what size you need to run your car audio install! BIG NO NO! Why? Alternator's charge batteries, not just run stereo equipment! If you have a l…

I bought a Boss audio blx 3500m amp about a year ago when i knew nothing about car audio and just tried to buy the cheapest amp i could find. I've read that boss audio products aren't that good. Is this true and does this reputation also go with this amp. I'm just wondering because i had it hooked up to a Boston Acoustics g5 12" single 4 ohm and the sub made a funky slapping sound (not tinsel lead slap, those are fine) that i could just not live with. Could this be a problem with the amp.

CADENCE ZRS-8000D what do yall know about this particular amp past or present history. I know their old stuff was the sh@t but how are they so far as quality now? I see them for about 600 shipped and its strappable @ 2ohm plus its not a bad looking amp. Wanted to run 2 fully loaded btl12s in my Thunderbird tuned to 32hz. Wanna totally seal off the enclosure to the cabin as well. Trying to make a nice GP.

alright, I have 4 guage wiring right now, not installed. and there is some 1/0 on here I was considering buying, but if I dont need it then why spend more money. I am going to do the big 3 in 4 gauge, there will be a run of probably 8+ feet to a D block under my seat where a 4ch amp will sit. it will enter a D block, and leave as 8 gauge to the 2ch. another run of 4 will leave the D block and make a trip of about 6+ feet to the sub amp behind the rear seat. I am going to set the gain on the sub amp at 800 watts, and not sure whats happening with the front stage, but worst case scenario - rear channels will be 100x2 and fronts 75x2. so Ill be pushing 1150 watts at the mos…

So I'm been on the web looking at different types of 5k amps that are linkable amps, so I can upgrade my current amp set up...I'm looking for a amp out of these new or used- dd m4a, sundown audio 4500, crescendo bc5500, dc audio 5k, ampere audio 5000.1. It has to be able to do around 3800-4000 wire down to 1.3ohms. Running 3-18s DSS ethos box is in the works.... Electrical is dual alts stock will run the truck, mid, and highs the singer 270amp will run only for the battery bank. 4 juice box blackcherry battery back, two runs of 1/0 wielding wire. ( would like more batts if space would allow) ( playing music daily and burbs on comps) I'm not looking…

So I've wondered this and never seen any tested answers. If i had a 750 watt amp at 1ohms and another 2000watt amp at 1 ohm and 750 at 4 ohms and I want 750 for my subs given same model and same efficiency at same ohm which would draw more current? A bigger amp wired to 4 ohm or a small amp wired to 1 ohm. Example would be a crescendo bc2000 at 4 ohm vs a aq750 at 1 ohm. Anybody tested this and have any thoughts, experiences etc. Hope this is easy to understand as I tried to word it best I could

so im shopping around for a new headunit and i came across this, which has all the options i want, but i havent used jvc before. it has good customer ratings, but has anyone on here used them before? should i just leave it be and stick with alpine and the good stuff or what? i would rather save the hundred dollars, but if its garbage ill leave it alone. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDS100/JVC-KD-S100.html?tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs if anyone has used the bongovi (sp) sound thing, if so how does it REALLY sound?

So I couldnt pass up the deal on the SA line on here and purchased an SA-12 last night. Now it needs an amp. The car has a small alt, 70 amps. I want to keep it all under 1000rms. I will be running a 2 channel that makes 140rms total so I'm looking to give the sub anywhere from 500-750rms at 2 ohms. 600 would be ideal for me. My budget is 220 with shipping. What would you suggest? So far all I can think of is either an MB quart onx 1000.1D, a kicker ZX500.1 or a DX1000.1 (makes 50rms more than the ZX)

Aight, I'm in need of a cheaper ( sub $200 perferably ) head unit. I need this for my little river yacht. I need something with excellent radio reception being the primary focus. I can deal with no frills or anything else. I only have ( still working on them actually ) a pair of 6 1/2 co axials in the boat. I don't need any kind of processing or any of that. Just need to get decent reception in the middle of BFE Any ideas what manufacturer has the best reception ?

So I have a SoundStorm (SSL) EV4000D. I've had it for about a year and a half, and never have had a problem with it, except that I have blown two Subs with it. The first one was a Pioneer TS-W3002D4 which lasted about 8 months and then the most current one which blew today was a Kicker CompRT12. So i need suggestions of what kind of sub i should get because obviously the last two were a fail. I want something that will thump my price range is up to $250. Hope I can get some feedback.

This thread is not meant for bashing but what is this a good 0 gauge wire? A friend of mine had a bad experience with the Knukonceptz KLMX Kable, but is the Kolossus Fleks Kable better than Stinger 0 Gauge?

ok ive got 2 type r's for now, not forever. but i wanna get a good 1500 rms amp i can use for now and the future. so far im lookin at Audiopipe AP1500D Autotek Mean Machine 1500.1 US Amps MD2 Sundown SAE-1200 Hifonics Brutus 2000 Power Acoustik BAMF 4000 So far its kinda in that order, with sundown only bein that low bc its only 1200rms

So i have a sundown 1200D and i did the Big 3 but thats all... besides that everything is stock. Then recently my sub would randomly stop playing, especially at higher volumes. At first i thought it was my headunit because i could get it to play if i pushed a certain way, well sometimes haha. Then i took it to where i got everything installed and they ran a "diagnostics test" and they said they couldnt find anything except maybe that it was too much power for my stock electrical and that ive fvcked up my amp. Well i cant find the papers to my order with the amp so idk what to do there.... but besides that, the guy told me if i had a capacitor that what happened wouldnt ha…

I know Audison is a "good" name; can anybody say anything bad about them?

going for a simple sq based system with components up front and a single diyma 12" in the rear. Looking at a pair of MC300's (150x2 or 500ish bridged) or a pair of Xterminator Xt1600.2's (125x2 or 600ish bridged). the UsAmps are cheaper but they are the lowend line while the M class is the top of line that they offer. What do you guys think?

Planning a build in a 2012 hyundai sonata with the infinity premium system while retaining the stock unit Here's what we have so far Hybrid audio clarus jl hd 600/4 + 750/1 2 jbl gto 12's(IB) No processing as of yet since the head unit schematic is very tricky. Now, from the information I've gathered The stock head unit has a digital out(spdif) that goes to the factory amp. Usually, you'd go straight from head unit to processor, but, if you bypass the factory jbl amp, you lose bluetooth, xm, & am/fm radio. I'm about 90% sure the speakers crossed inside the amp, so I'm lost on what to do here. Tapping after the amp seems like the only option, but I can't seem to f…

I need an amp to power 2 xcon 18's, or zcon 18's (sub choice as of now, may change but that power range) Need a good solid amp with clean power, price insnt a complete issue but pref about 1k new. dont mind strpping two smaller amps, and im a fan of dual power/ground inputs. suggestions? car is 99 jeep grand cherokee subs are as stated most likely 2 xcon 18's or zcon 18s ""SQL"" kinda of set up plays music, very loud. will have big 3 and singer 250a alt, and xs 6500 under hood, maybe some d3100 in the back.

i was wondering if any one could help me by telling me were i could get a in dash volt meter? i have been searching on line and for some reason cant find any only batt terminal volt meters also any recommendation on some brands ? i was thinking stinger put like i said for some reason cant find any mayb im doing something wrong

About week ago while my truck was running and my music was playing my girlfriend opened my passenger door and my speakers started to hum. I seen the same problem with my friends amp "Foxmoto" and tried alot of things like changing my wiring, RCA's and my grounds about 5 or 6 times now and nothing seems to work. I have checked all the electrical and the readings are all normal. Any suggestions?

So as of now this is the best 5 channel amp I can find. By best I mean realiable and 1000+ rms for just the sub. I have not found one with higher rms then this one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23827_Hifonics-Zeus-ZXi60.4-1K.html Help will be much appreciated. Thanks!

I have 2 alpine type r 12 DVC 4ohm subs In ported black box tornado series. My Kenwood head unit has a 2.5 volt Preout. I have had my gain on my alpine mrx m240 half way up with no bass boost and crossover set at 85 on the amp wired at 4 ohm putting out 1500 watt into 2 alpine type r. I got the smd distortion detector a few days ago to see if I was clipping . I live in the middle of no where and the local audio shop has no clue what they are doing so I installed everything and set gains myself. I used the smd dd1 and it at my max volume on the headunit which is 35 it shows my amp starts clipping at slightly above 1/4 on the gain . I rarely get my volume past 26 on the hea…

I need some help on choosing what amp to run. i have no clue where to even start. im getting 2 12 fi BTL's in a blow through in an s10. just thought id ask for some advice

i have 1 premier prs 3000 and a clarion dpx11500 both are ran at 2 ohm and wqas just wondering the best way to sync them as my box comon chamber.

well long story short, i may be getting back the massive 3k today. i did trade my close friend and he isnt liking the way it sounds so i told him i would trade him back if he really wanted. so that being said, i have had a few offers on the massive. either sell for $315 shipped to a guy on c.a.c.o, or i was offered a LNIB crescendo bs2000. so my question is, should i sell the amp outright and pick up this other aq2200 for $275-300, or trade it for this almost brand new Bc2000? which ever amp i go with now, i will be adding a second one and linking them together to the zcons which are d2's so they will run at a 2ohm load. iv been sitting here at the computer now for 2 ho…

hello Whats up with the 2007 Crunch (Ground Pounder) D class amps? Do they do rated power(if so) how many volts to get rated power? Thanks