Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am trying to run the auto-eq on my unit. I keep getting an error message for outside noise. I am running in 3-way active mode. Internal amp is turned off. I did reset the head unit and tried again and still had the same error. I am performing the auto-eq in a very quiet closed garage. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.

I'm planning out a build that is using lots of Rockford parts, the 360 is an old dsp right? has anyone got experience with this guy and is it worth buying these days when you have new tech like JL fix, aerospaces, or helix? the aerospace allows for all pass filters i could use to help fix phasing issues, what other DSP's allow for this?

Im Looking At Upgrading My Electrical System Since It Will Be The Last Step Towars My New System. Electrical System will be supposrting an SAZ-3000D and a SAE-100.4. the alternator will be a HO once i buy one, Around 140-260 Amps i dont really know much about electrical systems and AH and all that i just want something that will suppost my system as well as my alternator could supply what i was wondering is would it be better to buy A.) 2 12V Tractor Batteries (Parallel) - $130 A Piece B.) 2 12V Kinetik HC 2000 Batteries (parallel) - $165 A Piece C.) 1 12V Kinetik HC 3800 Battery - $425

I always hate these "either-or" scenarios but I'd like some ideas for 2,000 to just below 3,000rms. I'd like to run 2 10" SSA ICON's which run at 1250rms a piece ... The amplifier needs to run at 1ohm or above, not below. I have 2 JL 1000/1's I can run. Takes up a lot of room to run 2 but I know it will be stable power at 2,000rms. 100A Fuse Per Amplifier. To make things look nice, I'm considering selling the 2 amplifiers to buy a Rockford T2500-1bdCP - 2,500rms. 300A Fuse I just want someone to agree with me and say yes, you're nuts and go for it. OR Someone to say "No, don't do that, you have amazing amps already, RF is downgrading" etc etc ... It's hard to find this i…

I was reading some of the threads here and I noticed a lot of you really don't like Hifonics. I just bought the BXI1206D and ZXI6406. I know exactly why most of you hate them, looking at your set ups (very expensive) i can totally understand why. Noticed a lot of Sundown Audio fans here. All i have to say is that they are beautiful amps, I would love to have one but with 2 kids and the budget i'm on i just couldn't afford it yet. I do hope my Hifonics can serve me well for the time being until i can afford better stuff. Just wondering, what do you all think of Elemental Designs amps (nine.1, nine.4 and nine.5)?

Are stepsom amps really the best amps? if not, are they really good and do they really put out the power they say for example, does the V 14K2D really put out 14000wrms @ 12 volts or not? Last thing, how much are these amps from the V 9K2D too the V 142KD? Heres a link just incase: http://www.stetsom.com.br/eng/Produtos.aspx (Go to amps and click on "DIGITAL")

i running two zcon d2 12's. with 2 deka 9a31 and stck alt until mid summer. i have 3 runs of 1/0 + and - . dont have much electronic in my car since it a 1975 chevy. been debating on the two amps but not sure which one will be more effiencent. through my company i can get two t2500 for 1050. i really like the look of nendo but i hear they are power hungry. any advise would be great.

this is basiclly the finally ungrade to my car for quite a long time. what i have installed already in my 00 olds intrigue (stock alt. no big three **unless later needed**) sony gt cdx310 reciever tsunami 1.2 far cap kenwood kac-x10d aa arsenal 12 d4 polk db series 5.25 mounted in the door's stock location db1000 tweeters db 6x9 rear deck ran all 4 gauge kicker wiring looking for a 4channel amp for under $150 to power tweets and 5.25's i really enjoy my kenwood excelon that i use for my aa. ive found a kac-x542 for 135 shipped on ebay. here is a link to crutchfield < link to crutchfields > also found kenwood's newer line excelon for about 170 shipped. the kac-x…

I currently have a 750 ca ac delco battery in my 2001 Buick lesabre. I'm going to be running my sundown sae 1200 @ 2 ohms for awhile and then may be adding a sub and dropping to one ohm. My car has a stock 130 amp alt. I have a kinetik hc1400 from my last system that is just sittin around and haven't gotten much interest when I tried selling it locally so figured might as well use it if it'll be better. First off can kinetiks be used as stand alone batteries? I don't want to run two batteries, so I'm wondering if the kinetik I have would be better then the ac delco battery in the car, like will it be noticably better?

ok first off, i know how you guys are lol, so please dont flame me. i need help with what crossovers to get/should i just get custom ones? now, this is what i currently have: 8 eminence apt80 tweeters, 6 eminence 6.5" midrange, and 2 eminence 6.5" midbass. i didnt realize it would be easier to set up the crossovers if i had the same number of midrange and tweets. so im gonna get 2 more 6.5" midrange, and mount them in the wall behind me. the other 6 will be in the front doors, 3 per side. there will be 4 tweets per side. and the 2 midbass will be in the kicks. now. this guy i was talking with said to run 2 seperate amps. one for the midbass, and one for the midrange/tweet…

copper can handle more current but if you up size the aluminum its just as good, right? say you need a grounding block or a bus bar - the copper bar is quite a bit more money but its smaller, if you dont care about size an aluminum bar that is 30% or so larger can handle the same current; is there any reason to go copper over aluminum?

So I saw the beast is apparently for sale now? Its on the order link, but didn't see it on the site earlier. Anyone willing to take the first stab at it and get us some results?

So I just installed (yesterday) my brand spank'in new Kenwwod KDC-X994. I soldered all my connections and I am using the units built in power to power my factory speakers. I am building a system and need tunes to hold me over so that's why I am running HU power. Today on my way to work I had that volume at 28/35 for one song. Half way through the song the volume slowly decreases and stays there for 5 seconds than slowly increase. Hmmm what the hell! I never had a HU do this. I continued to listen as the volume would fluctuate from "loud" to soft. I knew I didn't have a connection issue, just based on the frequency and duration that the volume was changing, it wasn't an ab…

I have a US Amps that I can not find any information on. Throughout my searches for this amp I found a few but none that look like mine. I think it maybe rated at 1200w@4ohms. Do you think it is 2 ohm stable?

so... i am going to install my sub and amp soon and im tryin to find some 1/0 ga OFC wire for a good price. i found this on ebay... its 50ft of 1/0 OFC for $49.25 shipped?!?! i dont think there is any way that anyone can get 1/0 OFC for less than $1/ft shipped. anyone tried this stuff? also, i was looking at the picture of the stuf. and if that is the actual product, that shit is like 80% jacket. so more like 8ga...or sumthin. ya kno? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-1-0-GAUGE-50-FEET-POWER-CABLE-WIRE-RED-OFC-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255defb30bQQitemZ160489779979QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo ^if this is junk (which it probly is..)... then the stuff below will be my next q…

I currently have a PowerBass ASA 1500.1Dx amplifier and am thinking about upgrading to a Rockford Fosgate amplifier. I am running two kicker CVX 12's and am trying to decide between the T1000-1bdcp and the T1500-1bd. How much difference does "constant power" make? which one would run my subs with more spl?

Anyone familiar with these amps? I have 3 of them and I am trying to figure out what the switch on the bottom actually does. It has an "H" and "L" which I thought would be high/low pass filter, but it doesn't seem to make an audible difference. Also, Is the Remote and ACC relay on these amps known to go bad?

I have an AudioQue 1200 running my single fully loaded 10" FI Q. Wednesday omw to school, my amp cut out. I took the inline fuse out (which looked perfectly fine) and replaced it (i use 100A fuses). Thankfully my amp started working again. Thursday omw to school same thing happened. my amp cut out. This fuse was definitely blown. I immediatly ordered a circuit breaker because I was tired of replacing the fuses (the audio shop where i got the stuff installed at charges me $5 for a fuse). I went to Advanced Auto Parts store and bought a 50A fuse hoping it will hold me untill i get my circuit breaker. When i put the fuse in the fuse holder, the power light on the bass…

Amp Name: Audiopipe AP-30001D Specs: 2000w @ 4Ω 3000w @ 2Ω Pictures (required): Reference/Credit : Bigpimpin91

How big does the wire really need to be? For 2k of power to a sub. How many amps are you really putting thru the wire?

I'm looking at this kit for my 96accord to wire an SAE-1000D in my trunk to an ssa icon. Its the first time I'm doing anything like this, so I am trying to ensure I don't mess anything up. I tried to search but didn't find anything. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4 and this one http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4 The only difference I see is that the cheaper one comes with a 5m RCA cable instead of 6m, and also says the RCA has a built in turn on lead. So if I go with this one, I will have absolutely everything I need to wire my sub amp. And with regards to wiring, I have to keep the RCA and power cable separate, cor…

i need an amp to push my 15" btl fully loaded dual 2ohm. i cant post in the fs/wtb section so i figured i would try to see what my options are this way. i am looking for something that is 2000w+ @1 ohm stable and not too power hungry. i have two yellow tops, 220 amp alt and all 0g wire (including "the big 3") i sit at about 14.4 volts with the truck at an idle and 3 viar compressors runnin. im lookin to spend about 350 shipped. if you think of any that might wok for me please post them up. not sure if i can buy one from anyone on here cause of my lack of post but if i can just send me a pm. thnx.

This wouldnt be really recommended for those who do not compete so I'll tell you now that this isn't necessary or needed for normal use of an amplifier. But for those who want the most out of their amps on the meter, read on... I am going to be getting into some projects soon for the car audio comp world and start making my own everything... I have several plans laid out for the competition world and for starters, i plan on making some multi insert wire blocks. Basically what it is is this- (for amps that accept 1/0 inserts only at this time) It would be a block of copper that inserts into the amp's power\ground terminal then outputs in a manner that can accept 2 ring ter…

Currently have 1 run each 1/0 gauge wire on a 180 amp alt with 3 kinetik batteries on the back (running 1 audioque 3500d.1 in the back). My voltage at ilde is dropping to around 12 volts and at 2000 rpm it is dropping to around 12.3 to 12.5 volts when i'm cranking it up for demos. My question is would adding another run or two of 1/0 help keep my voltage up or do i need a bigger alt?

My deck is rated at 4 volt preamp but when I measured it I get 4.1 volts at maximum volume on my subwoofer RCA and 0.7 volt on my front and rear. The deck manual States 4 volt at 10 percent Distortion so my question is should I pick up a 3-way line driver, cap the deck volume at three quarters, and use the line driver to boost the one volt and 3 volt signal up to 6 volt?