Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hi guys i have a question my box is tune in-between 34-35hz and i have my ssf set to 29hz and no matter where i set my ssf to i can't listen to all my song's. It's like some song's hit to hard where i have to turn down my volume because my sub's would beat to hard for my subs to handle.

Alright. Today is such a good day out that I decided to start getting somethings tossed into the car (FINALLY!). I popped off the door panels (easy) and the floor panels (pain in the ass) to start running wires. I popped out the cd player as well and kind of went oh s**** because its a wiring nightmare in there... I have been looking around online now for at least an hour for wiring diagrams to see what goes to where and so far no luck... Any ideas where I can look (or does anybody have one?). The wiring diagram that came with the cdplayer is generic and doesn't look like its correct.

When my car is running, and my HU is on pause, I get this high pitch sound through my speakers. its there when a CD is playing to, but high volumes cover it up. Anywanyz, im trying to figure out how to fix it. Someone suggested to me to check the grounds. SO I did, and found that my battery terminal (-) was loose. After secureing it, I thought it had been fixed, but the next time I went out to my car, it did the same thing. This only happens when my car is running, not when im on ACC. If it was still a ground problem, I would hear it when im on ACC too, wouldnt I? Also, my lights, and my HU backlight dim slightly and brighten, all in a very fast movement. I have upgraded …

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure al…

hello i have two JBL GT4-12 sub woofers which mono amp would be best to power them up. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Size 12" Voice Coil(s) Single Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms Peak Power Handling 1000 watts RMS Power Handling 250 watts Woofer Composition Polypropylene Woofer Surround Rubber Sensitivity 93 dB Frequency Response 23 - 450 Hz Xmax (millimeters) N/A Top Mount Depth 6.25" Cutout Diameter 11.14" my budget is 300$ please kindly reply regards simmer

tomorrow is quiver on the river, a TP usaci outlaw spl event..last year i took first in my class with a 145.5 using two 15" treo ss's (yeah, the ones that claimed a rear glass in a ryan built box, helped crack my windshield[rock chip]) using a memphis st1000d...in my old dodge. well, i've got the orion in my truck at .5ohm (roughly 27-2800wrms b4 impedence rise) on a s18x...would u think that's stronger then a mojo running at 2ohms? i have a borrowed st series (i believe.it's silver chrome with the non flamed logo) sitting on my dining table. would it handle .5ohm for burps? a local world champion says the mojo is stronger at 2 ohm then the orion at .5ohm...i know he know…

Hi Thomas! The surface mounted board has been damaged on your unit. They do not make this part anymore.. This is going require patience in locating another usable surface mounted board at about $75. to $100. extra plus the $119.95 already quoted. Do you want to authorize us to proceed? or at this point a $35.00 fee plus shipping is applied. (evaluation estimate fee). Please let us know your wishes on this repair. A repair time of two to four weeks is estimated after your authorization to proceed. arsehos quoted me 100$ Wrong So theres 60$ shipping $119.95 + 100 for parts. fudge i could have just bought another orion 2500D

My amp cuts on with only the remote wire hooked up to it why? and when i hook the power and ground wire up it wont power my speakers.

could anyone help me with what electrical upgrades i have to make to my stock mustang to run these? and if i need extra batteries in the trunk, how do i hook those up? to anyone that can help me with this, thank you.

I need any assistance finding a manufacturer to make a dual alt bracket for my 2011 4runner SR5 4.0L V6 engine. I am in the process of purchasing components for an audio upgrade and would like ti run the truck off the original alt and the sound system off the beefed up(350 amp+) second alt. If anyone has a kit available please please contact me through this post or message. Thank you in advance.

So I have some free time coming up so I figured I would look into running a big 3 just to see if it makes any difference. Few questions... Is welding wire better for the big 3? Does the big three make any difference performance wise? I understand it helps with the dimming of the lights which will be good. If the big 3 works out I am thinking about getting maybe an optima yellow top for under the hood. Slowly trying to build up electrical.

will i need for 8 Crescendo Audio BC3500? thanks

My dad got a used 05 Mustang back in the summer, and it came with a Eclipse CD4000 deck in it. I got him a pair of Alpine Type R Componant Speakers for Christmas. I was planning on installing it for him, but he insisted on haveing the car audio shop I got it from to install it (yeah, he don't trust me tearing apart his car). Anyway, I also had a Pioneer 2x60 Watts laying around to power the componants, and a Massive 1000 Watt amp and a 12" Adire Brahma. I took the Pioneer and Massive amp along to have the shop install those too and feed the wires for me, so I have the sub amp ready for the Brahma. So, yesterday, I stuck the Brahma into one of my old boxes (a sealed…

Friend, I am from Nicaragua and have a couple of questions: I have a single Rockford amplifier T20001 (2500 - 2800 rms ) with 2 TRF 12 ... and i hit 145.6 db.....Now.... i wanna buy another T200001....my question is: It could increase the db with another T20001 or not. How many db can i increase if put each T20001 with each TRF 12" 1.5? 2? 2.5? 3? Thanks

I'm wondering, how would I wire my front door speakers to a 2-channel amp? Do I just run them like I'd run subs?

I was trying to decide on an amp. I was looking at the Lanzar Opti 6000D. Can anybody let me know if they have had an experience or know about it. I will be using it for 8 15's in a ported enclosure from 16-20 cubes tuned at 25 to 28hz. I also plan on using lanzar's line driver.

How are they as far as doing rated power and being musical or are they just a ground pounder amp. I am particularly looking at the VLX 1de and 2de. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.

Seems a little pricey.... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016L37V6

Would two XS Power D3400's be okay to run that? I have high output 270 Amp dc alt. Or should i get two XS Power D3100's?

I am wondering if these amps will run on a 16 volt setup and what kind of power can be expected out of them at this voltage at .5ohm burps. I am wanting to run 4 duel 1ohm XS15's with 4 of the 3000.1's in my CRX.

Hi- I've needed a new alternator for a while and I'm finally starting to get my money up to purchase some upgrades. My 2000 Volvo S40 has a small alternator in a cramped engine compartment so most companies don't make alternators for it. DC Power and Ohio generator will make something for me, but I'm not sure which is the best scenario. I have an IA 40.1 (3600+ rms) and RF T4004 elite (~100x4). DC power quoted me ~$800-900 for a 270XP alternator. ~200 amps at idle, 270 max. This would be fine for my current system, but it's quite pricy and I could not buy new batteries this summer. Ohio generator quoted me ~$350-450 for a ~120A at idle (my stock max), and 200A max. Since …

I had the Addictive Audio 10.4 (115x4 @ 4 ohms) screwed into the box playing the 2 Selenium 6W4Ps active fine for a while. I started getting a static sound from the speakers, when I noticed that nearly all (7 out of 8) screws that hold the casing of the amplifier to the internals had stripped out and was barely hanging on for dear life. I took the amp off the box and took it inside to have a look, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. That being said, I have no idea what I'm looking at, but there were no loose wires, no solder points that had failed, etc. I gave it another try and set it on the floor of the truck beside the AQ2200D, wired it all up, played fine for…

do the PB amps come with them?

Hello, I have a older Blaupunkt Arizona head unit and has volume issues. All by itself left side channel goes silent. Also, if I adjust the volume dial it doesn't respond very well, it will start to run away in the increasing direction, I have to hit the mute button to get it to stop. I bought another new faceplate thinking that might be the problem, no effect. Still does these annoying things. Anything I can do myself? Unit not worth taking in and paying more than what it is worth. I'm an aircraft mechanic, so I can use a multi-meter and have good mechanical skills. Thanks in advance,

I've got a question for all of you in-the-know...... Running a couple of old-school Celestion AD15H's in my Tahoe, 'glassed in the rear corners after cutting out the inner rocker panels. Approximately 2.4cu ft each, with a 3"x8 1/2" port. I know these are rated at 600w RMS, but I'm pushing them with a Lightning Audio S4.500.1 at 2 ohms - supposedly putting out 250 watts to each sub, but sounds like it's making way more power than that - I'd guess closer to 400 watts to each sub, if not more. I'm using 4ga wiring from the battery to the amp rack under the Powerbass S-10's firing down betwen the front seats (nice midbass staging! LOL!). Have an old Kenwood KAC744 (40wx4@4…