Subwoofers / Speakers

Ok so i have narrowed down my search to JL 10w1v3, sundown e10, or id10v3. They are all very similiar in price. Please don't bash jl saying they overpriced and the such. I would like real opinions on these subs. I have .63ft^3 before displacement for each sub. There is no other box or anything like that. This is what i have and im gonna use. I have a jl xd 500/3 that I can use. That amp would be fine for the id10's or the jl. The sundowns would need a bigger amp i realize that. All of this is in a 2007 ram 1500 quad cab. I have a prefab atrend bbox under the rear seats. I know this site is very sundown and ssa heavy in recomendations but the dcon is out of my price rang…

So i received my xcon just now... and i was checking it over and there are no mounting holes in the surround.. do i just drill out where the hole is in the frame? ( there are mounting holes in the basket and the gasket just not where the surround is)

Let me word this different. What are some good 6.5" comp speakers that are a good value? Going to have 100 rms @ 4 ohms from a US Acoustics Barbara Ann amp.

I currently have a hifonics 1500.1 and a Fi bl 15. As I was listening to it today, the sub cut out and started to make a crackling noise. When I turned the volume down really low, the bass became normal again, but then I tried to turn the volume up a little it began to make the crackling noise again. Duly think I could have blown the coils? Could it be a rca problem? Could the wires in the box come loose? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.

I have 3 18" ethos and was wondering if my eyes are playing tricks on me... 1 sub is moving more than the other two...all wire the same at 1.33ohms to a taramps hd8k 1ohm version. I took the subs out of the box today and coils look good nothing wrong with suspension. No noise coming from them all wire look good and multimeter reading are good to... Could it be the fact of me looking over my shoulder at a angle but even when I look at them threw the back hatch it still look like it moving more air than the other two

Who has this gcon now? I think Pork chop had it?

I was scrolling through PE's website last night and ran across a driver that I found interesting. The Fountek FR135EX 5" Full Range driver. First of all, I'm surprised that anyone could get the upper extension to consider it a full range with a cone that large and I'm sure beaming would be a major issue if used off axis. When I look at them though I see one thing they could do that a 3" couldn't which is lower end extension. The only real problem I have with the 3" full ranges that I'm using now is the fact that lower/deeper vocals and other such information is pretty anemic. That requires the midbass drivers to reach up a little more than is optimal to bridge the ga…

Currently have a 12" Ethos in a ported (aero-port) 1.75 cu ft enclosure. It's being powered by a Crescendo 1500.1. No complaints with the Ethos. I've just been considering downsizing on the box. First thought was to toss it in to a sealed setup, but then I might end up being disappointed from the output. Other thought was to consider moving towards either two 10's or 12's in a sealed setup. Looking at a few options, it seems like I can get down in the 1.0 cu ft range with using two 10's. Since the 10's would likely put me in to the desired box size, any recommendations on this? Would this potentially be a signaficant downgrade from the single Ethos? Curious to …

So I just picked up a used sub and Im trying to figure out what it is, any ideas?

Ok, so I know that doing this is generally wrong, frowned upon, and "ghetto" for the lack of better term. But my question is this. Is there a "right" way to do this, or "proper" way to do so. If so, what equipment should be used. Any product recommendations? For those not understanding what I'm referring to, is when people have, generally, weather proof PA Speakers mounted externally of their vehicles, playing music. Again, please skip the whole, "this is wrong and retarded" phase, and just provide some good advice. And no, don't do it, isn't the advice I'm looking for lol. So from experience, what I have seen people use is those PA speakers, that are mounted to cop…

Will a icon sound good on 400 wrms? The box size is 1.45 cubic ft @ 40 hz

Goal is a stealth setup and enclosure needs to be small. Something capable of good output and above avg sound quality too. I would like to do a low-tuned ported alignment or a sealed in the .75-ish QTC zone. I have 900(+) RMS at 2 ohms or 600(plus) at 4 to work with. Will be built under armrest in a 97 Chevy Silverado. I realize I'm asking a lot, just looking at options.

Ok so i have recently traded and got a DC XL-18 M1, im not familiar with subs(never ran a DC). Im trying to come with with a good enclosure and will be using aeroports. (<- Saves me some hatch space for stuff) I did see that the DC site says 5.5 cf net for the 18's, but im not sure how to determine how much port i would need for it. My goal is for Daily with good SPL. Really i want it be loud lol. I tune at 40hz because it gives me MY perfect medium of daily and SPL(Thats just me) for the occasional comp. The formats are burps and the other is Music average for 2 different orgs. So i was thinking about going 5.5cf net with maybe a single 8" aero, but again im not…

Car: 2013 VW Golf 4doorHeadunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREENPlanned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died. My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it. I figure that…

Is there a decent one? The speakerLite seems a tad limiting.... Some time this week I will know res peak and cabin gain for the truck....time to plug some numbers in and see what happens.....

Hey everyone, this post/question is mainly directed toward the big guy. I am wondering which SSA sub you would recommend to me given these limits/stipulations: 2014 Honda Civic Sedan 1500 Watts on tap (Crescendo Symphony 1500) LIMITED SPACE... I am only looking to build and install an enclosure no larger than 1.5 net cubic feet. That being said, I have been considering either a 12" ICON sealed. A 12" XCON sealed (XCON being the most I can afford). Or, one of those two in the 10" variety, ported. This is for a daily driver, and I will need as much trunk space I can get, but still get loud and sound good. What is your input? Anyone else, feel free to chime in…

What would be louder? Currently have a bl 15 in a 3.1 cu box. I was wondering if two Sa 10's in a walled trunk would sound louder then my one 15? I dont know if this makes any difference but my 15 is firing upwards in the back of my car.

So i bought pioneer ts d1720c and the tweeters are pretty harsh. I have them mounted buy my side mirrors. They aren't directed right at me but they are pretty close to me. I have them wired at -3db on the crossover as well and running off of my head unit at the moment. They also get pretty distorted in my opinion if i turn my stereo up at 27/35 (35 is the loudest it gets) Should i try different mounting spots? I have also read some bad things about these tweeters but i understand its all about the install and tuning.

I am currently running 2 (400rms each) Sundown E-12s each in a 1.2 cubic foot ported box at 36hz. Powered by a Hifonics 1700.1 I recently found out that I could put a box in my back seat that will hold 2 15s. (R/T 300 series) thats 3.2 cubic feet per sub tuned at 32hz. Yes I understand 3.2 is just under the gross volume and does not account for the port. I also know it isn't the best box in the world but I can't afford much more right now and it is better than what I have. I have a convertible so I lose a lot of sound but I wanted to upgrade from the 12s to really just have more cone area and maybe a sub that will handle more power than the E series from sundown. I hav…

Good evening, my underseat truck setup finally kicked the bucket so I'm going to finally upgrade like I've been wanting to, doing a budget friendly soundqubed setup to match what I have now, (SQ amps and highs and mids) I drive a 2002 F150 supercrew (4 door, 5.5 foot bed) too and powering low end stage off an SQ 2200d. My questions are: 1. Is a regualr ported blowthrough possible with 4 15's ? All I see are 4th or 6th orders around (trust me I have searched a lot) My goals are to be loud, low and clean. I modeled different enclosures with WinISD and I get the best response with a ported box versus a 4th order (probably because of the stupid high QTS). 2. Is a clamshell a…

Hello, I need some advice on subs before I buy. Thanks in advance. I'm wanting to go with Fi subs, and thinking either 4 15's or 2 18's. dimensions of the area available without removing panels: 30Dx20Hx45W(approx). Here's what i'm working with: 2x Soundstream DTR1.3400D RMS Power Rating:1 ohm: 2200 watts x 1 chan.0.5 ohm: 3400 watts x 1 chan.thats each.

I will soon be running Two SA-12s on a saz 1500d and i want to get new speakers. The ones i have in my car now are terrible, 1 is blown and the others are on the way out as well. They are 6 1/2 all around and im looking for opinions on reasonably good speakers i could pick up at best buy or something of that nature. I have seen some speakers that go for $200+ a pair and have heard of others that are half that that and do just as much.

I have a soundqubed hdc3 18 and I cannot find the serial number on it. I have looked all over the sub and also tried to search online for where it is, Does anybody know where it is located?

Ok guys my big build (to me) is finally in the works. I have begun ordering and need some advice on my front stage. My car is a 2004 Scion xB. Not a lot of room in the doors as they sit, but I'm prepared to modify the panels to get the sound I want. As of now I'm running a Pioneer DEH-X8600BH head unit (which may change to a double DIN before it's over) so I'm not looking to run active. I just want to get a front stage that actually has some bass to it. Right now without the subs running it sounds like total crap as there's no bass whatsoever to these Polk DB6.5s. I would like to be able to have a setup that would sound great with no sub playing. The front stage as of now…