Leaderboard

Damn, I forgot how nicely I wrote that.

You need a good sealer/primer. The cut edges are more porous and are soaking up the primer.

Actually not. I am having severe generalized anxiety and it has started to effect my quality of living so I am willing to give it a try. YOu need to get on a daily workout routine and NOT sit around. That's the only thing that worked for me.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation. Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits. Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity. I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself. No, the issue is voltage drop. Typically most charts used in automotive applications reference minimum wire gauge for a given length and current in relation to a maximum acceptable voltage drop of .5V, not a current or thermal limit. The limit of the metal itself is referred to as the fusing current. Generally speaking the insulation will begin to be compromised long before the melting point of the metal wire itself is reached.

Unplug the speakers from the amp entirely, if it still goes into protect, next unplug RCA's. If that still doesn't do it, there is most likely something internal going on. Just some trouble shooting 101.

No, that formula only has one variable, voltage, in order to work correctly. You are adding a second variable, impedance. You have no idea what this variable is. It isn't 2 ohms, ever. No matter what subs you have. This is because a subwoofer is a reactive load and fluctautes impedance costantly at varying frequency/temp/enclosure. Again, you cannot measure power with a single DMM alone into a reactive load. Save your DMM for something else.

I guess my issue with a product like this, and all the other tutorials I often see on the web with gain setting/clipping are really a waste (imo) because they place people into a false sense of security because they aren't clipping thier amplifiers. When in reality, the clipping doesn't hurt anything, it is the simple overpowering that ends up cooking a voicecoil... I know, this will get debated endlessly, but I have done my own objective tests on this, published them on the web and stand by them. I think having a distortion indication of some kind is great, but honestly what purpose does it serve to show when distortion levels are present if you can't hear it with your ears? I think this is the root of the problem... Additionally, -40db below is ridiculously low as far as power problems are concerned. Again, great to know, but for what purpose? I have been building amplifiers for over 17 years, I only say this out of experience...