audio-neon

Good news is grand cherokee's can get loud if you can brace one properly... I would look into a sundown audio saz3500d and a pair of Xcon's... You will need a h/o alt for daily... but it would put you in a good position for getting relatively loud. Just remember, when it comes to spl, equipment is only 30% of the equation... the rest comes to install and understanding cabin gain, also, Fart boxes will get louder, but you will loose musicality, on the other hand, a well built box will still get loud and play music accurately.

I like that idea. Stop trying to sell the amp that I'm trying to buy Aaron.

What is your budget for subs? And for a decent priced component set, I would look at the Hertz deici line.

There is a good chance, that if it was reconed and doesn't have a sticker, it's just because they were out of "AA" dustcaps and used the generic black one instead of making the customer wait for something cosmetic. As far as being a Mayhem or not, Nick will be the authority on that.

not trying to be rude either but you need to go put your reading glasses back on i will break it down for you in slow mothe sub i have weigh 49 lbs repeat 49lbs and it surpose to be a mayhem 15 the website and the whole world is telling me the sub weighs 65 lbs and up that the reason for my questions the 12 mayhem 64lbs weighs more than my 15 dont make sense I read your entire post and everything that was replied. I can not comment on the accuracy of the website, (ie, design changes not reflected on the website), but I have faith in Nick's judgement... Where did you buy the sub from? And before you reply harshly to a mod again, take time to realize that I read hundreds of posts a day, and I try my best to add input when I can, but I can not possibly give ever detail of information that I would like to give.

http://www.ascendantaudio.com/mayhem.php Everything you need to know about a mayhem... Now unless you have something constructive to ask... this topic should be dead... Not trying to be rude, but Nick knows his stuff; not to mention it took me less than 1 minute to find out the weight on an AA mayhem 15"

Tried all the make shift/substitutes and they worked, but sometimes it lakes alot of playing around to find the right spot.. lol... That's what she said. Sorry couldn't resist.

I'll be going with the Kenwood with my next build after a few hours of playing with both on the board.

If built properly, you can run as many subs in a single chamber as you want. I've had 4 10"s in a single sealed box.

He has roughly 5 cu feet Whoops, that is not a good recommendation. You need dual 4 ohm vc. subs for a 1 ohm load. LOL. They would be way under powered with your amp, please ignore and keep looking. an while i love the 10 there have been plenty of problems wih the 15s. I'd like potential enclosure space before seeing 15s recommended

2 15" SSA Dcon Dual 4 ohm subs.. You will be happy with them either way (but they will excel in ported) They will want ~6 cu foot total ported.

I am interested, although the price will put it out of my reach. I am wretching over the 500$ price tag on the audison voche component set I've been looking at.

I only brought up SQ points because you were asking how you know if a sub sounds better. I have built one of each car (sq and spl) so far, and trust me, I LOVE bass.

What were you powering the w6 with, and what are you powering the Icon with? If it is the same amp, that could be part of the problem, or you could have an air leak somewhere in your box robbing you of output.

I was going to totally point you in the direction of the Zed Audio Leviathan until I saw your budget. So your budget is 300$ for a 5 channel amp that does 175-250 rms x4 @ 4 ohms and a 5th channel (or bridged 5&6 as in the case with the 6 channel Leviathan) capable of ~500rms @ what impedance? Hate to say this, but you won't find much in the 5 channel market for under 300$ and if you are focused on quality over "advertised output" that budget isn't much by todays standards.

Basically SQ for sub woofers is broken down into: Transient Response, how fast can the sub reproduce bass notes without loosing clarity. And an overall flatness or accurate reproduction of sound. Most people call a sub woofer good based on it's ability to get loud and having any sort of decent transient response. Others call a sub woofer good for the amount of power it handles. My main point here is, you determine what is good and bad to your ears, that's all that matters in audio. If you really want to test a subwoofer and see how it images in your sound stage, find an IASCA test cd, close your eyes and listen... Is the bass louder than the mids and highs. Not good... Can you localize the sound ( sounds like it is coming from behind you) Not good. And lastly, let it reproduce cannons, or a soft mallet bass drum roll, test it with some double bass from someone like atreyu, than pull out all of the stops and see what it can do... Remember your ear is your guide, that is all that matters.

Are there HU's made here, or at least assembled here? McIntosh, is made in Binghamton NY

American made components = Hybrid audio technologies

Dual 1 would probably be best, wired in parallel/series, will give you a final impedance of 1ohms, which most sub woofer amps are stable at.

6" Precision Sound Aero Ports *** Note that I am not advertising, nor am I in anyway affiliated with any company listed in that link, just pointing a fellow audio enthusiast in a direction.***

You can use the dmm on the wires, no need to remove the subs.

A used Sundown Saz-1500d will put out around 2000 watts @ .5 ohms.

I'm guessing that he is avoiding Hifonics... I would look for an old sundown audio sax1000.d or saz-1500d, the latter of the amps I've used and it was simply the best sub amp I have ever owned to date.

With what I know about Image Dynamics on a business level, I would recommend the IA components.

Broken dust caps can cause subs to perform differently, as it is a leak source... I'd get a replacement, should be cheap.