jcarter1885

The fi sp4s been on sale for months now, doubt they are gonna go any lower.

Thanks fellas, I appreciate it.

I cant find too much info on these subs on memphis's website. Try emailing them and asking them what is the recommend area they suggest for your subs. Also ask them for T/S Specs or Parameters so somebody here can help model an enclosure for you and your goals. [email protected]

Nice fellas, keep the pictures coming

Yeah the big 3 will help with voltage and is a must for any system especially on stock electrical. Yes it is cheap, all you need is wire and terminals. 1. Ground wire from battery to bolt on strut tower or frame which ever you prefer. 2. Ground wire from battery to engine block or bolt on alternators casing. 3. Power wire from battery to charging stud/post on alternator. I would at least do the first two for now and dont remove any factory wires just add them. Get some 1/0 welding cable will be cheaper than traditional car audio 1/0 wire.

Loud is subjective so whats loud to you wont be to me. But like posted above if you want more output ported is the way to go. Usually more cone area gets your more output but a single higher power sub can have its advantages as well. Have you at least done the big 3 wiring under the hood?

You just wanted to show off your accomplishments : Not too shabby

Yes that h/u will do active mode, so go ahead and run extra wires. You could always pick up a $20 set of vifa or dayton tweets and use those. Silverflute 6.5s arent pricey either, about 60 bucks shipped. For under a 100 bucks you have some equipment to use as a learning experience so you won't damage your pricey comps. Just a suggestion. Tweets - partsexpress Mids - madisoundspeakerstore

Every install is different so it will be hard to say exactly what 3 amps together will put out, even if you do find someone who has ran 3 before.

All the information you need is on Sundown's website.

Depending on amps size, you could try what hdrox88 did: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/62246-2001-tahoe-daily-driver/page-4

Check out the Torres Calculator and download it, i wouldn't use the re calculator at all. There are also instructions to help guide you throuh the process for Torres as well, so take some time to read up on it. Are you tryna squeeze two 18s in the trunk of a 300 or two 15s?

Frame? As in the metal bars that support the back seats? I didn't put a lot of thought into my post I appologize. Not liking the idea of screwing into the floor but may be the best way here. Also very interested to see pictures of them already complete as far as construction and wire routes. There is a plethora of Tahoe builds showing this process on car audio forums around the web.

We Dem Boyz

You're better off going to different audio sites and see what they offer if this is juet for fun.

Just the mids or mids and tweeters for $150

Why wait till their is 4 hours left before the deadline to post.

Haha, robot strippers FTW!

Not too shabby, cant wait for there availability.

I used to think CVXs were the best subs ever.

x2 More less I was showing how he could do a L port design..This was by no means finished but I thought it might help.. But that's not what he asked for at all, please try and help people and dont post just to post man. Save that for the IHOP. To answer your question earlier about the box yes i would make a new one, it looks like you got it off mobile sound works website. Nice enclosures to be prefab but arent built as well as you think, my box flexed like crazy when i bought one from them. Plus the board is blocked around the edges since the didnt route the wood for the port opening correctly, possibly hurting the output. Box is almost on the small end once you subtract the displacement of the subwoofer away from the boxes volume. So your current enclosure is around 1.83 cubic feet tuned to 33hz, somewhere in that baballpark. I never used BassBox program before so cant comment on the differences you are getting when using both programs but i use Torres calculator along with many others without problems. Im guessing since they are made by different people they use different codes to get their desired results. Just my .02

so at the end of the day you arent running 8k to those Ethos, so why even get an 8k amp. Makes no sense for the OP to drop the extra cash just to say i have an 8k amp. Comps maybe but for daily driving i dont see it.

Did you remove the back panel before to look at the guts causing the screw threads not to hold as tight? See there could be multiple problems

Yes but more information would help like what's causing it, where is it mounted, etc. Hard to help with no information given