Posted May 18, 201312 yr Alright I'm looking for advice on a sub box design for an Sa-12 that will give as much SPL as possible - without sounding terribly peaky. I'm willing to compromise on Spl for a frequency curve that would be acceptable for normal music listening- hip hop, rock, and country.sub is on JX 1000/1 - if you have questions about my vehicle and setup - look on my profile first under "About Me" and then ask me if the info you want is not there. Member Quentin Jarrell said "I would build the enclosure 1.75 cubic feet net tuned to 32 hertz. This will give you a 3db ripple (boost) at 35 herts and give you a F3 (-3db) at 26 hertz. This will give you the sense of exaggerated bass output. You can go smaller down to 1.25 feet but keep tuning at 32hz and do not go over 1.75 feet as group delay would be higher than desirable. " So, taking that advice into account, I would appreciate a box design that would stay within mydimensions designed to these specifications- Dimensions that would be good for me - a wedge- style box - Material- 3/4" MDF Within "constrained by" these dimensions -Its a truck- box type design 7" depth top12" depth bottom16" tall30" longTuning and design -wise1.75 cubes NET tuned to 32 hz -Of course if it can be made smaller (less volume) without a significant compromise in audio quality or output - that would be great - if not its okay it will fit.The port on the left side when looking at the sub would be great. I would like to trim down the length if it can be made smaller I would like help with a design that would meet these specifications.I may even attempt to build this box myself if it is feasible Edited May 18, 201312 yr by Trent Hari
May 18, 201312 yr If you have access to some average power tools you should be able to build it yourself. The only difficulty is with angles without access to a table saw they can often prove challenging to get cut exactly right on the width of the board with the angle on it. I've found it's easy enough to cheat that by making that dimension about an inch wider than required then just trim it down on the 90 degree side flush with the enclosure. Unfortunately now for the bad news. The dimensions you provided only give a GROSS internal volume of 1.91cuft. When you subtract from that the .14cuft that the sub will displace itself that only leaves 1.77cuft to work with and even if you were to settle with the minimum 1.25cuft that Quentin said is possible you still can't get a usable amount of port area to fit in that small of a space and the port length is just too long to easily manage in the enclosure properly. You're going to have to rethink your strategy with your sub and it's enclosure if you want it to perform at anywhere near it's optimum potential. Even going down to a respectable 10" size sub would present a challenge fitting in the available space, it's still going to need to be larger than that to get a usable port size. Hate to give you the bad news, but there's just not enough room in those dimensions to do it right.
May 18, 201312 yr Author If you have access to some average power tools you should be able to build it yourself. The only difficulty is with angles without access to a table saw they can often prove challenging to get cut exactly right on the width of the board with the angle on it. I've found it's easy enough to cheat that by making that dimension about an inch wider than required then just trim it down on the 90 degree side flush with the enclosure. Unfortunately now for the bad news. The dimensions you provided only give a GROSS internal volume of 1.91cuft. When you subtract from that the .14cuft that the sub will displace itself that only leaves 1.77cuft to work with and even if you were to settle with the minimum 1.25cuft that Quentin said is possible you still can't get a usable amount of port area to fit in that small of a space and the port length is just too long to easily manage in the enclosure properly. You're going to have to rethink your strategy with your sub and it's enclosure if you want it to perform at anywhere near it's optimum potential. Even going down to a respectable 10" size sub would present a challenge fitting in the available space, it's still going to need to be larger than that to get a usable port size. Hate to give you the bad news, but there's just not enough room in those dimensions to do it right. Alright. Well i guess my other option is to go sealed. I have a shop at my house with a table saw (with tilt up to 45 degrees) and a band saw drill press, wood sander...etc. so tools aren't a problem.What i have now is 1 cube GROSS ported (tuned pretty high-has a pretty short port)so i'm sure even that box you described would be a significant improvement. If you think it would increase output significantly to have a ported enclosure, ill remeasure my truck and see if i could fudge on those dimensions a bit. - tell me how much larger on my dimensions i would need to go for a port to work.Otherwise, if it's not possible to get a port without being significantly larger, I guess i can look into a sealed enclosure. Would you think i would lose a significant amount of output by going to a sealed enclosure vs ported or would the output be comparable? I really can't have everything I want , so ill be willing to compromise a little to do it right. I really do not want to go to a smaller sub-woofer unless absolutely necessary.
May 18, 201312 yr If you have access to some average power tools you should be able to build it yourself. The only difficulty is with angles without access to a table saw they can often prove challenging to get cut exactly right on the width of the board with the angle on it. I've found it's easy enough to cheat that by making that dimension about an inch wider than required then just trim it down on the 90 degree side flush with the enclosure. Unfortunately now for the bad news. The dimensions you provided only give a GROSS internal volume of 1.91cuft. When you subtract from that the .14cuft that the sub will displace itself that only leaves 1.77cuft to work with and even if you were to settle with the minimum 1.25cuft that Quentin said is possible you still can't get a usable amount of port area to fit in that small of a space and the port length is just too long to easily manage in the enclosure properly. You're going to have to rethink your strategy with your sub and it's enclosure if you want it to perform at anywhere near it's optimum potential. Even going down to a respectable 10" size sub would present a challenge fitting in the available space, it's still going to need to be larger than that to get a usable port size. Hate to give you the bad news, but there's just not enough room in those dimensions to do it right. Will a aero port use less space?
May 18, 201312 yr If you have access to some average power tools you should be able to build it yourself. The only difficulty is with angles without access to a table saw they can often prove challenging to get cut exactly right on the width of the board with the angle on it. I've found it's easy enough to cheat that by making that dimension about an inch wider than required then just trim it down on the 90 degree side flush with the enclosure. Unfortunately now for the bad news. The dimensions you provided only give a GROSS internal volume of 1.91cuft. When you subtract from that the .14cuft that the sub will displace itself that only leaves 1.77cuft to work with and even if you were to settle with the minimum 1.25cuft that Quentin said is possible you still can't get a usable amount of port area to fit in that small of a space and the port length is just too long to easily manage in the enclosure properly. You're going to have to rethink your strategy with your sub and it's enclosure if you want it to perform at anywhere near it's optimum potential. Even going down to a respectable 10" size sub would present a challenge fitting in the available space, it's still going to need to be larger than that to get a usable port size. Hate to give you the bad news, but there's just not enough room in those dimensions to do it right. Will a aero port use less space? Nope. I did the calculations using all the way down to the same port area as a 3" aero. Technically it could fit but it's not even half the minimum port area the sub should have and the port would have to be about 10" longer than the aero kit comes ready to make it up to. Not that it's difficult to lengthen it, but in all honesty why subject the sub to such sub-optimal conditions. OP can you measure your MAX dimensions, going to the absolute limit you're willing to give up? It's not like you need a great deal more volume, just enough to help.
May 18, 201312 yr Author Okay i have to go to work- ill be back with the dimentions soontry a 12*16*30 box and see if that would work
May 18, 201312 yr Okay i have to go to work- ill be back with the dimentions soontry a 12*16*30 box and see if that would work That actually makes a pretty good difference. 1.75cuft NET tuned to 32hz with enough port area to keep the port velocity to 25m/s is definitely attainable at those dimensions. Funny how a few inches can make such a big difference isn't it?
May 18, 201312 yr This is per your max deminsions and is a very tight fit but I doubt you would hear any audible difference. I assumed this is a single cab truck. Sub behind driver seat with port firing toward driver side (this is best for loading)
May 18, 201312 yr Okay i have to go to work- ill be back with the dimentions soontry a 12*16*30 box and see if that would work That actually makes a pretty good difference. 1.75cuft NET tuned to 32hz with enough port area to keep the port velocity to 25m/s is definitely attainable at those dimensions. Funny how a few inches can make such a big difference isn't it?That's what she said. *giggity
May 18, 201312 yr Author This is per your max deminsions and is a very tight fit but I doubt you would hear any audible difference. I assumed this is a single cab truck. Sub behind driver seat with port firing toward driver side (this is best for loading) (I have 30 hz subsonic filters on the rcas)Perfect I like the design Quinton. What is the volume on that box? If going larger would help a lot, you can fudge on the 7" dimension.- I have a back seat so I could probably get a 5 cube box back there, I just do more with my truck than listen to music., I would like to be able to remove the box reletively easily if I need to haul people:-) If you look at my profile, you can see all the details about my vehicle.Just out of curiosity, does more volume produce better frequency response or output? Also, I may be building this box myself, so simple is good when it comes to design :-) Edited May 18, 201312 yr by Trent Hari
May 18, 201312 yr It's a hair under 1.25. Larger volume creates a little more output. You wouldn't hear any difference in sound quality.
May 18, 201312 yr Pm me your email and I can send you the 3d sketch up and you can get all of the deminsions from the model.
May 19, 201312 yr Author Pm me your email and I can send you the 3d sketch up and you can get all of the deminsions from the model.Alright. Thank you for advice. I'm sure ill have a million more questions when i go to build it.
May 20, 201312 yr Author Pm me your email and I can send you the 3d sketch up and you can get all of the deminsions from the model. I think i sent you a PM, if you have not received it ill resend it. under my messages, it said the message was not read yet.- i sent it yesterday. Edited May 20, 201312 yr by Trent Hari
May 31, 201312 yr Author So could i get help with a design for a 17" Tall x 8" top x 12" bottom x 30" long wedge- shaped subwoofer box tuned to 32 hz (3/4" MDF) for an SA-12?
June 15, 201312 yr Author So could i get help with a design for a 17" Tall x 8" top x 12" bottom x 30" long wedge- shaped subwoofer box tuned to 32 hz (3/4" MDF) for an SA-12? Can anyone help me with a design?
June 21, 201312 yr Author Does anyone care about helping a customer of SSA build a box for a sub-woofer that was purchased here? Please?
June 21, 201312 yr You've been helped before and then shit on the ones helping. Add to that you are asking to be spoon fed and resist trying.
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