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Just wondering what GPS unit you guys own and how you like it. I currently have a Cobra NavOne and the damn thing is huge, it's time to upgrade. So post what one you have, what you do/don't like about it and if you'd buy it again knowing what you know now.

The Icon 10" is one of my favorite woofers.... gawwd dayummmm do they drop.....

44Hz-60Hz

i just checked out the requirements to play that game... Minimum requirements is a single core system around 2ghz and 512mb of ram... That's a joke nowadays because games today require a LOT more than that. IF he's gettin 145fps with that pc, then he definitely isn't running in High Definition... There's no way.

pc games that only support single core systems will perform awesome on chips like these that are OC'ed. Newer games that support dual core will still allow you to play with this system... but i imagine under intense video demands, if this board doesnt' support PCI-2x16, then i wouldnt dump any money into upgrading video.

if u are gettin it for no more than 150 then i'd say get it, otherwise turn away. The Foxconn boards that are capable of using that processor mostly support just Athlon FX chips and older. What you have is a Sempron Socket 939 chip. IT might\should be 64bit which is good but those boards max out around 4gb on the memory so it's kinda pointless for 64bit purposes. It depends on what you wanna do on the computer. If u plan on doin some new age gaming.. skip it. Those boards do not support newer technology and will limit you right off the start. If your goal is just to have a pc to use, then it's fine. Yes it can do gaming, just don't get too attached to it for gaming. GSkill memory is pretty damn good when OC'ed. That FSB speed appears to be OC'ed which is makin me wonder what the settings are. Get in the BIOS and see what the processor runs at temp-wise after 60 seconds. It should be idling kinda low like around 100F-115F. If it's idling lot higher than that, the cooling system needs maintenance or replacing. I would then put it under load (Prime95)once in windows for about 60 seconds with a temp monitor such as coretemp. If temps approach or exceed 67C, STOP the stress test and recheck OC settings which probably exist and cooling system. Also, check and see if the board can shut the system down if it overheats too and if it can have it do it right around 70C. This is all i can tell u without knowing what it's to be used for.

That should be fine. I think they usualy suggest the HC1400 for a starting battery.

You will have to atleast do the big 3. If you were going to just put a battery or two in the back I'm sure you will still have some dimming of lights but if your only going to have the car for a year it would probably be fine. Can't be 100% sure but I think you will have dimming lights.

with the big 3 done in 1/0 and an extra battery in the back. you should be fine. maybe replacing the starter battery as well

Image Dynamics make SQ subs, even just the entry level ID series subs run about $150ea, need I say more? Here are rebadged ID12v3's for $80 shipped. Need I say more? REF-TM12.4 - Image Dynamics 12" Dual 4 Ohm OEM Tidal Audio Subwoofer Yeah, you forgot to mention that those subs SQ wise sound more like the CTX line than the ID line. Need I say more?

I think it would be better if you continued the discussion related to the amp and subs in the thread you already have open about the amp and subs instead of opening a new thread to ask that question.

Nice explanation....makes it easy to understand.

I'd say get 2 AQ1200's and strap them for 2400 rms @ 2 ohms

Looks like you're off to a nice start!

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The 8053 introduced noise into my system. I think they were just very picking on grounds. I loved the 34230, however. That amp had some balls.

the box style is called CRX style, i am not sure if it sounds louder to the ear. my new box is on its way and when i get everything setup ill let you know how it sounds CRX style compared to the regular way. maybe someone else will chime in also. if you are going to be getting a box made for ur magnum i would do the CRX style or something diffrent then the sub and port faceing rear just for looks and having something diffrent to most people I did an install in a Magnum with 4 Pioneer 12"s with a CRX style box and it sounded good, it slammed also. I have this setup in my 96' explorer and it sounds great. I'm not sure if there is a noticeable difference, I don't think there will be a sure way to find out either unless you have the exact specs of both setups and compare that way. I asked some guy at a local car audio store, and they told me that the port back, sub back setup is the "right way" he told me its "physics" lol, and that if you have the sub up, port back, than that cancels out some sound waves, because the sub is producing sound wavew up and down, and the sound waves coming out of the port are front to back.

There are a large quantity of subs that will provide great response infinite baffle. Your post however provided little to no information. A good starting point would be to know what diameter you are looking for or what your space will allow for, the quantity of subwoofers you are looking for, a budget, and if you are limited to any particular final impedance to match your amplifier.

Nobody here cares that compete, and being an SQ competitor or judge doesn't make you right. The laws of biology and physics are the same regardless of your status in the realm of "sound quality" competition. Whether or not you understand those laws of biology and physics is also completely independent of your status in the realm of "sound quality" competition. There are a great number of competitors who believe some pretty ridiculous things that are completely contradictory to the laws of physics. False, and if you understood how we as humans localized sound you would understand why the idea that just because we can hear it we can localize it is wrong. That right there is a fundamental flaw in your argument and gap in your understanding. Did one of those SQ judges tell you that? LOL....wow. What you are saying is frivolous, unnecessary and wrong. In an automobile there is no reason to need to have subwoofers mounted in front of you.

As I understand it, a 12db/octave slope will give a smoother sound in comparison to a 24dv/octave slope which will allmost creat a edge to the sound. Isn't 24 db/octave more useful in LPF for subs? I'm a novice in this field, but from what I have gathered by googling around a bit using a 24db/octave slope for mids/tweeters will not be really good. The sound will be unnatural and unrealistic. Am I mistaken here? I wouldn't agree with that link. For whatever reason, they are trying to describe crossover filters in subjective terms which is pretty ridiculous considering the resultant sound is going to be determined by much more than simply the crossover slope, and the necessary slope is determined by much more than a subjective "target sound". 24db/oct filters are perfectly fine and commonly used. My processor allows slopes up to 30db/oct, and I've used them to highpass my midbass because it allowed to me run a slightly lower crossover frequency while still keeping excursion under control and not killing the driver's power handling. My advise would be to generally ignore that link's "description" of crossover filters. Achieving good sound is the ultimate goal, how you get there is less important.

Juelz Santana - Back to the crib

My new GPS should be here tomorrow!

I like the clean look, so my dock and taskbar are set to autohide

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