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I dont see why not, if its not loud then you are doing something wrong.

So, instead of being the all-knowing forum chode that goes around trying to bring people down without providing any sort of help and/or explanation, why don't you shed some light on the subject and try to actually be an informative and helpful person instead of the pompous asshat that you have been playing for who knows how long?

We can detect changes in amplitude much less than 3db. Under the most commonly cited test conditions we can detect a change in amplitude of 1db. That said I'm not disagreeing with your premise.....small changes in amplifier power are not worth worrying about.

Alright, we'll do a little math here Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v. So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps 13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w. So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v 12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output. and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario? The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever. SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range. Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

my settings are as followed: treb -4 mid -5 bass +2 bass boost lvl 1 and dont have a low setting. i dont use an eq on ipods. it still shuts off with bass boost off and with bass on 0. i was told this hu could eliminate speaker bass (inside of car i think its called high pass crossover but i dont know for sure) but it turns out my bass is connected to the sub as well and i didnt know that at the time Knock down that bass some and turn up the gain accordingly. poor advice

Why would turning down the bass on his head unit and turning up the gain on his amp fix his problem?

What kind of shit advice is this? He has a problem with his head unit not his speakers at the moment. His deck is designed to go 35 max which means it should not be turning off at 30 or any volume within the range for that matter. It's his head unit that has the problem. New speakers and a new amp won't fix this problem. Quoted this to ask you how you know he's going to have a 140db system if he adds door speakers ad an amplifier? Please inform me on this stupidity. Refer to the first quote. Thanks for the bad advice. why would he need door speakers when he clearly has a h/u or even a wiring issue? putting more money into this issue isn't going to solve anything as if to say how will an amp on his NEW door speakers fix the h/u or potential wiring issue? I understand for his system to get loud he WOULD, in the future, need a amp and newer/better speakers to get loud at a lower volume with this problematic h/u but here is the interesting thing if the volume control on the h/u its self isn't linear how will the amp solve the non-linear problem thus he will still have to be around 25-30 to get loud! well I guess he could still turn the gains up on the amp which could over come this volume issue.... but in the long run that wouldn't be the best idea! so before we go any furthur with this lets first let the OP get the wiring checked out and go from there! holy shit this forum is all fail. if his door speakers were clipping because of how crappy they are and because he is putting his volume too high (clearly)... it would cause the head unit to go into protect mode. It's responses like this that make the forum seem that way.

lol. yeah a girl cant tell if its 3 or 4 inches to the pussy so..........

Im waiting for the SSA sale