Prep for sound deadening

[islapp 0]

I recently primered my chevy nova's hatchback trunk lid with one coat of primer just so it wouldnt have a yellow trunk and primered body. I was wondering how would I prep the underside of the lid with acetone if it removes paint/primer? I hope this isnt a stupid question haha i just couldnt find the answer anywhere else.

[BanginGMC 23]

If you're talking about cleaning the surface before you apply sound deadener... Use Rubbing Alchoal, that's what SDS says. I used it and it worked great for me.

[islapp 0]

If you're talking about cleaning the surface before you apply sound deadener... Use Rubbing Alchoal, that's what SDS says. I used it and it worked great for me.

Oh my bad i forgot to put that part. Ok sounds good ill do thats thanks GMC!

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Denatured alcohol is my preferred method for surface prep but really any alcohol should do the trick

[Rudeboy 152]

Denatured alcohol is my preferred method for surface prep but really any alcohol should do the trick

Denatured alcohol is what I recommend as well. Fresh paint shouldn't need any prep. I start with a water based cleaner for really dirty surfaces. An alcohol final waste just removes any residue, oils or grease. As long as the surface is clean, you are good. Something to watch out for if you've done any body work is Bondo dust. Make sure that's cleaned off. The only time CLD Tiles have had adhesive failure was on a car that spent 2 years in a body shop. After he got rid of the dust, everything was fine.

[islapp 0]

Denatured alcohol is my preferred method for surface prep but really any alcohol should do the trick

Denatured alcohol is what I recommend as well. Fresh paint shouldn't need any prep. I start with a water based cleaner for really dirty surfaces. An alcohol final waste just removes any residue, oils or grease. As long as the surface is clean, you are good. Something to watch out for if you've done any body work is Bondo dust. Make sure that's cleaned off. The only time CLD Tiles have had adhesive failure was on a car that spent 2 years in a body shop. After he got rid of the dust, everything was fine.

Yeah too bad i already have mega fatmat or watever their "butyl" mat is so i didnt get SDS deadening products. I got it a while ago so guess im stuck with it hopefully it lasts even though everything i read lately says it won't. Its not fresh paint and has been in a shop til today so it will need to be treated wenever i get to doing it.

[BanginGMC 23]

Denatured alcohol is my preferred method for surface prep but really any alcohol should do the trick

Denatured alcohol is what I recommend as well. Fresh paint shouldn't need any prep. I start with a water based cleaner for really dirty surfaces. An alcohol final waste just removes any residue, oils or grease. As long as the surface is clean, you are good. Something to watch out for if you've done any body work is Bondo dust. Make sure that's cleaned off. The only time CLD Tiles have had adhesive failure was on a car that spent 2 years in a body shop. After he got rid of the dust, everything was fine.

Yeah too bad i already have mega fatmat or watever their "butyl" mat is so i didnt get SDS deadening products. I got it a while ago so guess im stuck with it hopefully it lasts even though everything i read lately says it won't. Its not fresh paint and has been in a shop til today so it will need to be treated wenever i get to doing it.

I got some SDS products and it worked amazingly

[Rudeboy 152]

Denatured alcohol is my preferred method for surface prep but really any alcohol should do the trick

Denatured alcohol is what I recommend as well. Fresh paint shouldn't need any prep. I start with a water based cleaner for really dirty surfaces. An alcohol final waste just removes any residue, oils or grease. As long as the surface is clean, you are good. Something to watch out for if you've done any body work is Bondo dust. Make sure that's cleaned off. The only time CLD Tiles have had adhesive failure was on a car that spent 2 years in a body shop. After he got rid of the dust, everything was fine.

Yeah too bad i already have mega fatmat or watever their "butyl" mat is so i didnt get SDS deadening products. I got it a while ago so guess im stuck with it hopefully it lasts even though everything i read lately says it won't. Its not fresh paint and has been in a shop til today so it will need to be treated wenever i get to doing it.

Delicate area here, but I would check to be sure it really is butyl before installing it. You can drop a 1" square in an ounce or so of mineral spirits. Leave it for a few hours. If the liquid turns black, you should be OK if it's brown, the adhesive is actually asphalt and will be more trouble than it's worth - you'd be better off using nothing if you care about the vehicle. I only mention this because FatMat and several others have a history of claiming a product is butyl when it is not.

[islapp 0]

Ill have to try that. What if it is some kind of mix of butyl and asphalt i read somewhere that it says its a pantented rubberized compound. I wish i wouldve known how to deaden with the right stuff before i covered the whole car floor with it and bought more fatmat lol now i dont want to waste it.

[Rudeboy 152]

Ill have to try that. What if it is some kind of mix of butyl and asphalt i read somewhere that it says its a pantented rubberized compound. I wish i wouldve known how to deaden with the right stuff before i covered the whole car floor with it and bought more fatmat lol now i dont want to waste it.

There really isn't any such thing as a mixture - the compounds aren't compatible. "Rubberized Compound" means asphalt 100% of the time. All asphalt roofing materials have rubber added for stability. Since the sellers know that people know that asphalt is crap, they call it rubberized compound because they don't have the balls to call it what it is. It's a despicable ploy to trick people into believing it's something other than what it is. Ought to be illegal. Sorry.

[islapp 0]

Ill have to try that. What if it is some kind of mix of butyl and asphalt i read somewhere that it says its a pantented rubberized compound. I wish i wouldve known how to deaden with the right stuff before i covered the whole car floor with it and bought more fatmat lol now i dont want to waste it.

There really isn't any such thing as a mixture - the compounds aren't compatible. "Rubberized Compound" means asphalt 100% of the time. All asphalt roofing materials have rubber added for stability. Since the sellers know that people know that asphalt is crap, they call it rubberized compound because they don't have the balls to call it what it is. It's a despicable ploy to trick people into believing it's something other than what it is. Ought to be illegal. Sorry.

Well thanks for your help don. Im thinking ill just keep it put away until i can get the right stuff for the job but thanks again u probably saved me a lot of time and trouble that it wouldve caused later on

This is from the website.

Fatmat Sound Control has been servicing the sound dampening industry for many years now. When we started we made one product and that was our FatMat Extreme. Slowly throughout the years we added new products to our line. Our goal is and always will be to offer our customers the best products at the best prices possible. Butyl is a very expensive product, and that's why so many others make false claims of offering a true butyl product, and the ones that do have a true butyl product sell it at ridiculous prices. FatMat has finally found a way to offer you a true butyl product and we did this while still making it very cost effective. Our new Mega Mat is thicker and it contains less fillers giving you a true rubberized butyl compound.

Edited August 16, 2010 by islapp

[Rudeboy 152]

Ill have to try that. What if it is some kind of mix of butyl and asphalt i read somewhere that it says its a pantented rubberized compound. I wish i wouldve known how to deaden with the right stuff before i covered the whole car floor with it and bought more fatmat lol now i dont want to waste it.

There really isn't any such thing as a mixture - the compounds aren't compatible. "Rubberized Compound" means asphalt 100% of the time. All asphalt roofing materials have rubber added for stability. Since the sellers know that people know that asphalt is crap, they call it rubberized compound because they don't have the balls to call it what it is. It's a despicable ploy to trick people into believing it's something other than what it is. Ought to be illegal. Sorry.

Well thanks for your help don. Im thinking ill just keep it put away until i can get the right stuff for the job but thanks again u probably saved me a lot of time and trouble that it wouldve caused later on

This is from the website.

Fatmat Sound Control has been servicing the sound dampening industry for many years now. When we started we made one product and that was our FatMat Extreme. Slowly throughout the years we added new products to our line. Our goal is and always will be to offer our customers the best products at the best prices possible. Butyl is a very expensive product, and that's why so many others make false claims of offering a true butyl product, and the ones that do have a true butyl product sell it at ridiculous prices. FatMat has finally found a way to offer you a true butyl product and we did this while still making it very cost effective. Our new Mega Mat is thicker and it contains less fillers giving you a true rubberized butyl compound.

Do the test then. "rubberized butyl compound" is one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. Butyl is a synthetic rubber. Why would you "rubberize" it? If it comes on a roll, it is a roofing material and won't work very well. If it's actually butyl, it probably won't melt or fall off and will be better than nothing. I wish people would just state the facts and not wrap everything up in a sales pitch that makes it impossible to figure out what they're talking about. It's really rich that he's talking about others make false claims about butyl content.