My trunk rattles so freakin hard and my backwindshield moves. And some of my songs that play i can hear the trunk rattleing over the bass but others i cant am i losing bass from the trunk??

Yes, yes you are.

Think you could help me solve this problem

second skin! im a trunkster tooo

ehhh lol i knew it was coming i dont have money for that right now < still in high school...

Glue some wood to it.

Expanding foam can help fill any obvious voids in your trunk lid/etc. It should help a little bit.

Anything else that might help?

Is your SSD ported or sealed?

ported 32 hz

ported 32 hz

Awesome! The best advise I can give is to seal the trunk off and fire the port and sub forward. Second choice would be port up through the rear deck and sub forward.

I know this sounds like a lot, but it really isn't. It is cheaper than wasting all your money on deadener. I have been there. The only thing that made me happy was eliminating it all together.

What car/truck?

I will never do a trunk car any other way again. Well, with the exception of a 4th order done in the same manor.

ported 32 hz

It is cheaper than wasting all your money on deadener.

whoa whoa whoa..... back this trolly up.

deadener is FARRRRR from a waste of money, you must have used fat mat or some shit.

i have 2 15s on 7K in my trunk and it does not rattle any where like you would think... not to mention it helps your sound floor...

i just woke up ill let others tell your more benifits of deadener

please dont give advice if you dont know what your talking about,.

1996 ford contour

ported 32 hz

It is cheaper than wasting all your money on deadener.

whoa whoa whoa..... back this trolly up.

deadener is FARRRRR from a waste of money, you must have used fat mat or some shit.

i have 2 15s on 7K in my trunk and it does not rattle any where like you would think... not to mention it helps your sound floor...

i just woke up ill let others tell your more benifits of deadener

please dont give advice if you dont know what your talking about,.

Morning bigjon! I stated that poorly. I think deadener and mass loading in general has it's place. I have a lot of experience in many different vehicles and many different products. I have used Rammat, Stinger Extreme Roadkill, Dynamat, and Dynamat Extreme all in my own car and several other brand others brought to me for their cars. FatMat, Edaed and the like. I think this puts me in a position to have an informed decision. Thus I was inclined to give Tony my advice. No question about deadener changing your sound floor. It also has had the effect of lowering my peak frequency. My cabin was so dead with respect to road noise and internal vibrations. I loved it and would do it again given the budget to do so. I spent over $1k on deadener alone in an effort to quiet my trunk. With the subs facing the trunk, it didn't matter. I added 4 layers and it still rattled.

As Tony stated, he is in HS and doesn't have the money to spend on deadener. A sheet of 1/2"MDF and some creativity can solve his problem if he has the ability to fire forward.

Chris

1996 ford contour

I have never done an install in a Countour. If memory serves me correctly, they have a decently large rear deck shelf. Do you have the ability to fold the rear seats down?

Here is my person vehicle (sold it last year)

That was the first layer. When I was done I had over 300Lbs added to the GVW of the car. Yes I took it to a weigh station when we were done.

1996 ford contour

I have never done an install in a Countour. If memory serves me correctly, they have a decently large rear deck shelf. Do you have the ability to fold the rear seats down?

my seats dont go down but i made them go down lol so yes.

no dount friring forward and sealing it would help with trunk rattle,

but IMO only if the back seat is never used,. and you can keep it folded down.

and as far as firing thru the back deck.... dont do just the port. you will run into issues, cutting the back back out and putting a falt top on it would work better....

chris i was not trying to atack you ..... but in the car audio world.. a young man will tell all his friends that deadner is a waste of money and blah blah blah.... i just hate furthing misconeptions. thats all.....

i too have almost a G in just deadener and MLV

and in my case firing forwerd is not an option... but i am exploring that in my g/fs car. a honda. seems to be most popular

when i turn the sub facing the inside of the car i lose so much base though

Then we started on the interior and interior panels. Every surface was dead. I went back and added ~50 Sq Ft of Ensolite to all the door panels. The closed cell foam products worked very well with the remaining road noise.

no dount friring forward and sealing it would help with trunk rattle,

but IMO only if the back seat is never used,. and you can keep it folded down.

and as far as firing thru the back deck.... dont do just the port. you will run into issues, cutting the back back out and putting a falt top on it would work better....

chris i was not trying to atack you ..... but in the car audio world.. a young man will tell all his friends that deadner is a waste of money and blah blah blah.... i just hate furthing misconeptions. thats all.....

i too have almost a G in just deadener and MLV

and in my case firing forwerd is not an option... but i am exploring that in my g/fs car. a honda. seems to be most popular

No disrespect taken Jon. I am with you an misconceptions as well. I was trying to work with the info I was given. I have watched your car being built on the forums. I have always enjoyed your project. I retract my statement about it being a waste.

when i turn the sub facing the inside of the car i lose so much base though

You will lose the benefit of "loading" if you just face it forward. there are other things at work too, but that is a separate topic. If you have rigged your rear seats to go down and don't mind them being down and can seal the face of the box off from the trunk, go for it. Here is one of my many renditions.

Rear facing:

Sealed off and forward facing:

I not only gained over eliminated trunk rattle, made it easier to blend with the front stage, but also gained over 3db. Depending on the size of the opening and your rear deck, the entire project can be done for well under $100. Yes, I have done it for that or less.

How about treating the areas that rattle first. Go buy some butyl rope and stick it between the metal that is causing the noise.

Can be bought for cheap online or at your local autoparts store. Same stuff as glazing bead for Windows.

1 can of spray foam and roughly half a sheet of MDF. I did have the luxury of having my rear deck sealed with deadener already, but you can get creative here. Strip the rear deck and find and fill all the holes with caulking or even a small amount of expanding foam. Be careful with the foam. If you spray it into a spot where two panels are welded together you can run the risk of it expanding enough to pop the weld. I did that in the trunk of my third Gen Maxima.