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Do you have a link to any actual "specs" for these magical speakers other than the frequency range he posted in the one thread I found (I admittedly didn't search over there, that thread just happened to be right at the top on their forum). He doesn't give any specifics as far as how that frequency range was determined. Did he go by -3db points in the response? -10db points? How is the distortion performance within that frequency range? What is the cone break up like? How flat is the response within that bandwidth? Any manufacturer can throw out any "rated" frequency response that they want as there's no set standard for determining that range. Hell, some sub manufacturers rate their 12" subwoofers up to several kilohertz even though they realistically aren't going to be worth a shit in that range due to inductance/cone break up/beaming/etc. A manufacturer could "rate" a tweeter for response down to 20hz since it will technically play that frequency. Without any more clarification on how that frequency bandwidth was determined, or a response and impedance graph, just writing numbers on a forum is pretty useless. Rule #1 of driver design compromises; Hoffman's Iron Law. I would be interested to see how he's rating the frequency response and what the sensitivity of these "pro audio" drivers are, as good low frequency response and high sensitivity are contradictory performance terms. This is the reason, based on the laws of physics that I can promise he did not defy, that most "pro audio" mids do not perform well at low frequencies. Their high sensitivity necessarily excludes them from having good low frequency response. Oh, and I would highly recommend against trying to run any 6.5"+ drivers up to or over (or anywhere close to) 5khz.

more progress today. wiring them up and there big brother stopped by mounting the amp wiring the sub up subs in . sealed on the dash at 40hz!!! amp gain at zero subs back out to add a little bracing. i feel i still have 1db or more to gain with sealing off the trunk and adding bracing and adjusting the amp.

If you want sealed and a little more output, look into the SSA drivers too. Excellent SQ and output.

Stop with the win garbage. No one gives a fuck. Prove yourself with your comments, not some "award". And your setup will NOT satisfy the OP at all. Considering you are looking for beyond reference levels I'd contemplate some horns. I don't mean some pro audio bullet crap either, but something like a set of ID's. They will do more than you need level wise and can be made to stage and sound great as well. If they are possible that will limit the 8's you can pair with, but a 2 way is possible and can reach your needs.

Perfect compared to some other idiot. Really get off your high horse, equipment doesn't buy you anything and you have shown over and over again that you don't comprehend what is necessary. If you have to tout your "experience" to give your comments merit, then obviously your comments have no merit on their own. Notice you don't see other people on here citing why they are the cats meow. There is a reason for that. Stop.

Yes, majorly wrong. Showing off is for junior high or elementary school. Most of us are in the hobby to have the best sounding system that we can. Impious didn't "explain" your system. In fact, if you understood it he pointed out what you should be concerned about and only touched on the surface. Many more things we could help you with. As to your recommendation to the OP, you didn't listen. He wants loud, you didn't offer that and nowhere near. You completely missed out on his actual question.

You are dwelling on the wrong bit of information AGAIN. He asked for input on what would fit his needs and yes he did reference kick panels, but when you read further you'll see he referenced doors and is generally open to good suggestions which yours was not as it didn't address his needs. Sure you have kicks and he said kicks, but how does that help him, I'll make it easy and cut out what wasn't his request so you can read it better this time. Active 2 wsy, SPL route, reference levels, low distortion, rockin' midbass, mellow tweets, with a budget of $500. You told him to copy you which will be not loud enough, missing midbass, and made no reference of how the tweeters you have fill his needs nor can we be sure they meet the budget. And you bypassed the active altogether, although perhaps you don't know what that means.

The Exclusive is a great driver, but it isn't a midbass fiend. I've seen a bunch of 2 ways with the SLS as the midbass, they just require a full ranger for the rest of the top.

? srlsy 8w rms and only 90dB is not going to give the OP the output he is looking for. Personally I've never heard a TB tweet I love either.

I asked him about doing some horns, but we haven't heard since. Until he responds it isn't worth thinking about tweets. Needs to determine if horns are a feasible solution, but I am not sure what the budget had to cover so can't say. Then need to determine mounting location limitations, then processing, then drivers/amps.

By have do you mean you use 400w? And yes I already know the answer which makes your recommendation even worse.

Randal, do you ever answer a question. I asked a very simple, yes or no question.

And you HP them at 40Hz per your other thread. Those must be some seriously monster midbasses. Huh? By that do you mean they are at the minimum or the maximum or not? Also curious how you measured "200w" without setting your gains. Do you actually know anything about your own install other than what drivers and amps you have? So far every time you post it sure seems that you are just regurgitating marketing garbage about something you have very little understanding about. Now why is this on topic? Sorry to NCSU, but I really wanted to make sure that either when he read his thread or anyone else searched and read this that they realized that your recommendations are not even in the ballpark. Your drivers WILL not take 200w at 40Hz. Send me one, I'd be glad to measure at what power you will be mechanically running out of excursion and guarantee it will be significantly lower than 200w. Don't expect it to be working when it returns. On the same note, your front stage isn't loud. If you truly think it is you really don't understand what loud is. You think its loud because you've compared to other things that aren't loud. Those drivers will NOT help the OP. NCSU you are stuck in a hard spot. Fitting the horns under your dash will indeed give you what you look for, but will require some modifications to make them fit. I'd seriously contemplate those mods and see if you can find a work around. Other formats of horns aren't going to achieve your other goal of not ripping your head off. Small format and horn is just not a good idea. There is no real commercial application for them so they just haven't been developed and engineering wise it wouldn't be trivial. Look at your car again and do it with a measuring tape. See if you can make them fit. If not, we will have to contemplate a different path.

I understand headroom which is why I asked the question. He could have easily replied differently but instead implied that his drivers could take that much power. I'd normally agree, however, it sure seems deliberate and always to make a point. The worst form of response on any forum is that I know because I compete. Explain yourself. Everytime there is a good thread made I respond well, perhaps I do react aggressively when the threads aren't made well. The one thing I have ALWAYS done is called out things that were blatantly incorrect. I will try to temper the reaction, but seeing the quality of the questions that occur on the forum go steadily downhill frustrates me to the core. Exactly the reason that the Terms & Conditions exist. I think if you truly look at where I respond in such it is either to correct horrible misinformation or at some blatant refusal to try to write something in such a way that others could actually help. I have NO issue with Randal at all and think he could easily find a home here, but he is going to have to realize what he thinks he knows and what he knows are two completely different things. I also think the only reason you'll feel you get run over is that you invited Randal here and he has made it very hard on himself. From the get go he showed up as someone who just wanted to pimp equipment claiming superiority over EVERYTHING else without any background knowledge to back it up. This is absurd as there is no such thing and it really pisses me off as it is a blantant and intentional lie. There is no "best" speaker, amplifier, or what not although there surely is a "best install" for parameters set by needs and budget. I would encourage Randal to post, but to NEVER say anything about the fact that he is a competitor and to never say that the Blues Audio or LP drivers are the BEST solution for anyone. Instead try to focus on things for their specific install that could help them. I would also encourage him to make a real build thread as I guarantee that there are plenty of us on here that could help him improve his score in a MAJOR way. Continuing on topic, I'd be curious on the required major surgery. Not that I doubt it, but it really will be the best solution for the NCSU's needs.

I have an 02 Silverado and don't think it would be so hard in my truck. Once you take your interior out once you will see what you will be cutting. Not such a big deal. A simple mock up with a cardboard box would go a long way towards letting you see that. As Impious said, mini-horns will still get you the output just won't dig as low.

I never implied he shouldn't be proud, just shouldn't use whatever achievement he has to promote what he has for gear. Instead use technical arguments and everything is fine. You also have nothing to feel responsible for that is bad. You brought someone here who stands a chance to learn a great deal and hopefully can evolve to even find this place to be a home. I was serious when I said I have absolutely no beef with him. When his or anyone's comments are out of line I will call them out, but that surely doesn't mean its personal.

The SLS won't go high enough. How much of a midbass nut are you (trade off is less output) and what budget is left for the 8's?

Is it acceptable to raise the crossover frequency of your sub and pull that part of the stage back to give you the kick drum feel and some wicked mids up front? The reason I ask is that you will have to sacrifice somewhere. Either you have the output you desire and you cross your sub higher, or you have an unbelievable stage. Everything is a compromise. You could with either though have a couple different eq setups for different listening volumes, but you'll need a crossover that will let you store multiple crossover points then as well. I am stuck in offering up a pro audio midrange that will blend great with the horns, or a subwoofer for an 8" which will blend well with the 50hz subs. Of course if you are willing to put a 10lb driver up front and put a ton of power on it you can have both. In that range though, my choice would actually be a 10". What do you think?

If you find some of these, can fit them, and give them enough power you'll be more than happy. Aurasound NS10-513-4A 10" Subwoofer NLA from Madisound Not sure when Aura is going to re-release them though so used it would have to be atm.

WOW Sean, I don't know if I could find a BADDER midbass if I tryed. I had been looking pretty hard at the Vifa NE225w-04 8" and its 10" big brother, But this Aura is a beast. I found a store with these Aura's in stock and I WILL buy them TODAY if you tell me I am not going to find anything even close to better for my SQ APP. with the full range 3"-4" driver? YES I am a young bull and could spend years looking at drivers and still miss the mark. Thanks for your time Sean. I've seen the 12" version of that play nicely beyond 1kHz. Sure you'll get some beaming at those frequencies, but in your case you won't have to. They will take some power to get moving, but are GREAT woofers. You could surely match them with horns, but in your case with a 3" you'll be able to really play with the crossover frequencies to really pick what works right. FYI, they should be around $150 ea. Not sure what that store is selling them for.

If you ever sell them let me know. PM me where you found them if you will, I might have need for some of the 12's fairly soon.

They are heavy. Door hinges won't be happy. They'll be good enough IB. There are 8" drivers that could work as well NCSU. Depends on your space. Swallowing a driver that size is not trivial.

Not revolve my life around car audio?