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I found some great bassy music. Check out some Bassnectar. A customer at work got me turned onto this stuff. Its dubstep which is club music but it bumps.

So for those of you that may not of seen the other post, this is whats going in there 2 sa 12's in a box tuned to 28-29hz before car peak 1 jbl baby crown amp the 1200 one 1 autotek 4 channel for mids and highs 2 mb quart 6.5 component sets 1 for back and 1 for front for mids and highs 1 pioneer avh-5700 50 feet of 1/0 for power extra battery Here is me getting started

This is yet another build for my good friend. Seems he has to buy a new truck every year or so... What's Going in: 2 Massive Audio DB8000 Amps 8000w @ 1 ohm strapped (the two amps will be strapped and running 1.33ohm) 1 Massive Audio HD1600.4 200w x 4 @ 2 ohm 1 Soundstream Ref Comp set 6.5" (something used I had sitting around that he liked) 3 Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 4" VC D2 ohm 2000w RMS 2 Shruiken BT120's JVC Deck--nothing fancy 1/0 everywhere... big 3 ect... all tsunami cables **not sure on the rear speakers yet... they're not all that important... he's got some old soundstream 6x9's that we'll probably stuff in there..

birch yay

Here's a few pictures for ya whores out their DC alt on the way, should have it in a week or so! I'll have a couple videos tomorrow woot!

I haven't used it yet but will soon. The package claims that is ridged, sandable, paintable and expands 10x. The package says its for sealing off internal body cavitys to reduce noise and the make them more structurly solid. recommened for car box sections such as a-pillars. Won't deform the panel. The name on the package is IES INTER-FOAM 10. Sorry to clog the build but thought you might be interested. No worries. It's good info. I've never seen the foam like that. I've used that style of set up for panel bond adhesive though. That will be much easier for doing smaller areas that are hard to pour foam into. I use the stuff that comes in bulk containers that you mix A with B and then have about 30 seconds to get it poured before it starts expanding. Update.. There is a little more to do but here is a peek at it. The back seat set in place. Now lets see if I remember how to post a video. Let me know if they aren't working. Front windows down and flexing. did I say it plays low? 15hz test tone putting them to work. Finally found a good use for my daughters long hair :cheesy: Now all the gear gets pulled back out and I get busy with the sound deadener.

Bolted the baffle in a sealed it up. Used a piece of flat bar to sandwich the board between it and the angle. I used stover nuts on everything to keep them from backing off. Then I foam filled the dead space between the rear deck and the baffle board. I did this to both seal and prevent rattles. I'll trim it all once it sets up and then put a coat of black paint on it. Started wiring up the batteries. So close now to hearing this thing.

The madness is about to begin.....again, well not to much. Remember i am not looking for a all out SPL setup, just a daily driver that is light on weight and still bangs...a solid 12 BL in a 2.0 cu ft enclosure~35Hz equipment: 12 BL dual 1 Alpine MRP M1000 (yes i know, no subsonic filter blah....it was stuffed away in my closet so i wanna give it some use) Knu Konceptz 4awg Kolossus cable Sundown 100.4 (JL 6.5s, tweets) Still need another set of components for the rear. Also my enclosure is temporary due to the fact i dont know if my new car rear seats fold down......if they dont i know there is a armrest that connects to trunk. Maybe aeroport straight forward. Previous setup (BTL 18m, sundown 3k..etc) 12 BL brushed alum feels good to go back to a 12.... tomorrow it will be tested out in my brother car...going against a W7 Found a type of car i am interested in but we will keep that a secret for now

Mounted and wired the crossovers and speakers. I added another piece of MDF to the back of the panels to sandwich the door panel to prevent rattles. I set the panels back on for now. I need to go pick up new door clips for a better fit. Finished prepping the baffle and installed T nuts. I glued some felt to the frame work to prevent the wood from making noise. Installed baffle. It still needs to be bolted down and sealed though. It fits nicely. Ran power cable through the board and the other cables under neath. I used my router to do a relief notch to prevent the wires from getting pinched. Finally sorted out the trunk lifts. I just need to pick up a couple more ball stud mounts and it's good to go. Next on the list is to finish the battery wires and seal the baffle, then it will be time for the test run.

It's the factory color for the exterior of the car and it's a very classy color that looks great in the sun. You spy correctly the 9" was going to be for this car but I'm building a fab 9 housing instead thats why the 3rd member is pulled. With 19 batteries in the trunk plus sounds and pumps I need the strongest axle and housing I can fit under this thing. Ya, I'll have to get some outdoor pics when the sun is out. Here is a little sneek peek of them partially installed. Started getting the doors back together and blacked out the baffle board. The flash makes the color look lighter than it is. Now to get my game plan together for all the foam filling and sealing of the trunk and cabin. As always thanks for all the positive comments. I hope this build has motivated others to put in some work.

I finally got everything painted today. Base coat Clear coat. My "spray booth" ventilation is a little weak.

well here are the pics my home music system for now. thats all i got for now

Did some glassing Yesterday... Put the top on trimmed up the top today... opened up the port as well--still have finish work to do in there.. I'm holding off until I get the flare glassed--it's an addition to the top of the box. no sense in doing a ton of sanding now when resin is bound to drip down there later.. test fitting the amps... getting an idea of the wiring layout ect...

Thanks guys. I always push myself to do the best job possible. Don't forget filler and paint and... seriuosly though I try to tackle everything myself, it's the only way to get quality work these days. Too many people out there just slap shit together and take peoples hard earned money without truely earning it. I'm not afraid of failing thats why I can do what I do. Enough about me. Back to the build... Made some panels for the rear doors just to make sure they match the finish on the front doors. Then primered them and gave all the other parts a few more coats after blocking them flat. Got the head unit all wired and ran the rca, speaker, and power wires to the trunk. rca's ran down the tunnel. Speaker wires down the driver side rocker. 2 runs of 0/1 down the passenger rocker. I tried to keep al the wires as far apart as possible and any wires that had to cross were done at a 90 degree angle. I feel like I'm getting somewhere finally.

Thanks. Well we are now one step closer to seeing it in paint as of today. I'm going to try to get it painted this weekend weather allowing. More progress today. Made the brackets to hold the rear seat. I'll be drilling the holes larger and replacing the screws with bolts and lock nuts. Didn't feel like running to the hardware store today. Also drilled the angle support in the car to give more mounting points for the baffle. I used some spray on bedliner stuff instead of under coating this time. Then I masked it off and sprayed some high build 2K.

I sealed the mdf with fiberglass resin a couple days ago and just about have it all sanded and ready for primer. I'm going to paint everything to match the body color this time. The fabric was already fading from the sun so I'm not going that route again. sealed sanded The reason I did the resin was to prevent the MDF from soaking up the paint materials. It's another new thing I'm trying so I report how well it works.

Probably the last set of pics on the rack, since everything else that needs work is just wiring. Put the sub in though and ghetto-rigged it to my amps... now just waiting for the 3sixty replacement so I can actually have decent crossover options. I think I've decided to stick with the grill for now, actually. Hard to tell in the pics, but it matches the interior fabric of my seats and does a decent job of covering the chrome bling that is JBL's dustcap. Looks better in person too.

here's some early pics of the box... it's further along now I just need to upload the other pics... these are off my cell

I sectioned the front baffle and layed it back 5" at the top. Added some gussets and bracing. Mounted the subs to check clearance. Shit is close. Going to see if I can get the rest of the woodwork done on it tomorrow.

Well this weekend sucked. After doing some more mock up of the hydraulics I discovered the rear cylinders were going to hit the outside subs. So out came the baffle board and into the trash it went. The new layout. I still need to cut the holes for these subs. Put the rack back in the trunk and mocked up the amps to check for clearance on the subs. I don't feel like going for a 3rd attempt on this. It sucks that I had to rework this but at least I've come up with a design that will be easier to install and get sealed up when it's done.

I've started putting the pieces together now. I've done about as much as I can until my knukonceptz order comes in and I can mock-install all my wiring to determine where everything needs to be mounted. After that I can seal, paint, and carpet everything together. Just a few quick updates until then: The bottom piece. Equipment gets mounted on the right; the left is part of the sub airspace. The horizontal wooden bar nearer the top of the image is bolted to the chassis and will allow me to drill through the false floor and into a secure mounting point. The false floor. The righthand side leaves a removable window to access the equipment mounted below. And yes, miraculously enough, that is enough space for two amps, a processor, and my distribution blocks. The subwoofer box. Uses the basement airspace and a little above the floor. 1.7ft.^3 in total, after accounting for the W12GTi. These pieces are not yet attached. Equipment window closed. I'll install a rope or something on the underside that will allow this piece to be pulled up at will. The grill frame. I'm waiting on some grill guides from PE, after which time it will be primed/painted and covered in grill cloth. The whole thing. It won't be completely assembled until it's ready to be installed permanently. If the mailman cooperates, that might be as early as this weekend.

OMG, it's Christmas morning over here! Thanks, State Farm! I have no need for the Focals or PPI, but I appreciate it all the same. And this W12GTi is freaking massive!

Made a little progress over the past few days. Hard to make anything too final without my equipment yet. Bolted a brace to the chassis so I can screw down my floorboard and make removal of the entire piece a pain in the ass. Might not discourage any thievery/vandalism, but it makes me feel better. Clamping some pieces on the bottom. The area on the right is where my amps will be installed. I'm having trouble believing they're as small as the manual claims, but we'll know soon enough... Made my circles on the left, and cut out a piece of the floorboard on the right. I'm hoping to install a hinge and leave that section of the floor able to be pulled open for easy access to the amps/processor directly beneath. I'm expecting my equipment to arrive tomorrow, so more exciting pics should be on the horizon.

Thanks. This build is definetly getting complex. There is going to be a total of 19 batteries (3 for audio and 16 for the hydraulics) ,4 hydraulic pumps, 2 amps, 4 12" subs, and enough cable and hoses to power a small village. It will be a very tight fit but will be super clean and organized. I almost finished the amp rack. Just need to modify a couple things but it's close. I finished welding the tray to the subframe then moved onto the hold down. Just showing off here. Welded a 1/2" stover nut onto the tie down bracket which I failed to take pics of. Hold down/amp rack top side Under side. Bolted on. I still need to drill and tap the frame for bolting the amps down but here is the layout.

Yes they can. Thanks. Finally got the trim piece done. I'm pleased with it now it looks like it belongs there. Now I need to get the amp locations sorted out.