New HU CDA-9887

[bigtoepfer 0]

Ok well i got rid of the D3, and got a CDA-9887. LOL, bid difference i know. But before i've even done any sound setup or tweaking my subs instantly sounded better after they were turned on. But DAMN there are alot of sound options. I tried for 10 mins just to setup the HPF so i can take the bass out of the front and rear speakers to no avail. Needless to say at this point i feel kinda dumb. But i've been really busy today so i haven't had a chance to read the manual. I knew this deck had alot of options but man this is rediculous. I still have the stock hi's in my car but i plan on changing them out. And i know that everyone is going to say go ACTIVE. So before i even start purchasing products explain to me exactly what it means to have an ACTIVE setup. Because i'm not sure i understand whats up. I guess thats all at the moment. need to discuss what i'm going to put for highs

I have a 2007 honda fit. With 4 6.5" speakers one in each door. was thinking components upfront and plain 6.5" speakers in the rear or just some 6.5" midbass drivers. Currently the subwoofer setup consists of 2 8" kicker CVRs with an 650 wrms amp. at 1 ohm. But the substage changes alot. My car in the one from the shop that we put setups in to see how they sound and demo to customers. Basically whatever we feel like listening to that week or so.

[dre3k78 0]

I have the same HU and im running active. Basically active is bypassing the passive crossovers that come with component sets(or you can buy DYI drivers separately w/o crossovers) and set the xovers manually via the HU. For example my current set up i have my sub playing 20-70hz, my mids 70hz-3000hz and my tweets play 3k-20k+.

There is a switch on the bottom of the 9887 to set to "3 way" which is what i described above. Of course you are going to need to amp each driver, so a solid 4 channel is ideal for most people. 2 chan to tweets and 2 to mids.

[bigtoepfer 0]

O I C. is it really that important what if say your crossovers were adjustable? Active still sounds better i guess. so you would need a 4 channel just for the front stage. what about the rear stage? or you talking about using the two channels for say all 4 of the 6.5s and the other two for the tweeters up front

[dre3k78 0]

Chances are you dont wanna run a rear stage, just focus on your front stage. But if you HAVE to have rear fill you can run them off the HU amp but will prob sound like crap and screw with your staging. Also i read in the 9887 manual if you run in "3 way" mode and also run a rear fill off the HU you lose the ability to fade front/rear, so you cant really lower or raise the volume of the rear fill if you run it. So if it sounds like crap you cant turn them down etc....might as well just say screw the rear fill imo.

The advantages of an active set up is to get more power to your drivers(making them sound better) that would otherwise be lost in the passive xover, also you can tune each driver with the 9887's EQ, TC(time correction), slope and various xover points to your liking.

A 4 channel amp would work fine for a 2 way front stage. 2 channels to the tweets(1 channel per tweeter) and 2 channels to the mids(1 channel per mid). I run an Alpine PDX 4.100 to my front stage.

Edited March 23, 2008 by KSlice

[bigtoepfer 0]

yeah i was looking into the PDX amps because space is becoming more and more of an issue lately. How do you like it? Versus something else of the same cost. What speakers are you using? I've seen a couple of component sets that i like but i don't want to waste the money buying them if i'm just going to be throwing out the Xover.

[dre3k78 0]

I really like my PDX. Very small footprint that fits easily under my driver seat. Always runs cool and puts out over the rated power(more like 124w x 4). Im running DLS UX26s and love em...would of gone with some Iridiums but cant fit those huge tweets in my factory sail location. Down the road ill prob mess with some DIY drivers(SEAS, Peerless, Dayton etc..) but these sound great for me for now.