2 BTL 12 ENCLOSURE

[SKEEMASK 3]

I have 2 loaded btl 12s that Im going to be running a T4k on. I want to use aero ports but the only way that I can get enough port area is to go a bigger than the recommended 2.5ft3. I may have to go with something like 2.7-2.9ft3.....is this ok for daily usage? Or will it hurt the woofer? I see on the Fi site that u shouldnt go any higher than 3ft3. Id be below that but they say 2.5ft3 on this site?

Edited May 9, 2008 by SKEEMASK

[BKOLFO4 29]

I have 2 loaded btl 12s that Im going to be running a T4k on. I want to use aero ports but the only way that I can get enough port area is to go a bigger than the recommended 2.5ft3. I may have to go with something like 2.7-2.9ft3.....is this ok for daily usage? Or will it hurt the woofer? I see on the Fi site that u shouldnt go any higher than 3ft3. Id be below that but they say 2.5ft3 on this site?

Why do you have to go larger, length of the port?

what are your dimensions?

[SKEEMASK 3]

Ok if I were to do a slot what about this. 14"H x 38"W x 30"D (double baffle) after displacement 6.8ft3. port 12.5"H x 8"W x 26.5"L which will tune me to 32Hz and bring me to a net volume of 5ft3 shared..................sound better?

[BKOLFO4 29]

You may run into issues with the port if you are planning on one port against one side of the box. A 26.5" port length puts the port 2.75" from the back wall. If you leave it 8" from the back wall, it calculates to be a 30" port length, but in my experience, it seems like when they are that wide it does not always work out exact so you may be ok.

If you put the port in the middle and ran it in so it is 4-5" from the back wall, it would work better. . .

And better yet, you really do not need that much port area. 6.5" wide is plenty for 5 ft^3, so you could redesign with less port area making the port length shorter. Take width off the overall box to keep the depth for the port.

[SKEEMASK 3]

You may run into issues with the port if you are planning on one port against one side of the box. A 26.5" port length puts the port 2.75" from the back wall. If you leave it 8" from the back wall, it calculates to be a 30" port length, but in my experience, it seems like when they are that wide it does not always work out exact so you may be ok.

If you put the port in the middle and ran it in so it is 4-5" from the back wall, it would work better. . .

And better yet, you really do not need that much port area. 6.5" wide is plenty for 5 ft^3, so you could redesign with less port area making the port length shorter. Take width off the overall box to keep the depth for the port.

Yea thats what I meant, port in the middle using the top/bottom/back wall of the enclosure. And really the enclosure is way bigger than 5ft3 but after port/sub/bracing and resin it brings me down to 5ft3 and 100sq" of port shared which is 2.5ft3 and 50sq" or port per sub. They say the more port the better which is why Im going with 15sq" of port per cubif foot of enclosure versus your 12sq". Thats why its 8" wide. I understand slots very well but Im not really use to dealing with aeros which is why I wanted to try it but I cant get a straight answer from anyone so Im just saying "F" it and go for what I know that works and works damn good.

[BKOLFO4 29]

You can always add angles in the corners for airflow and to take up volume if the box is bigger than needed. I do that on boxes where the depth is close and I do not want to add the 90 in the port. Make the box deep enough for the port and then fill the corners to remove airspace. you could do the same thing with aeros. . .

Brian

[///M5 2,833]

It is definitely easy to make a box that is too big smaller, really hard to do things the other way around.