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By DeMan2319
Good evening everybody. I have a few items to install for an Audio System upgrade; but don't know how to go about it. The Items that will be involved are -1 Distribution Block -2 Amps. -1 Capacitor. -1 Equalizer/Crossover -6 Speakers in Total (2 tweeters, 2 Front Door 6.5's, and 2 6x9's) -1 Subwoofer
I'm trying to connect 2 amps; 1 for the Subwoofer and the Second for Speakers. My Aftermarket Head Unit has 3 pairs of RCA plug-ins.
1) Subwoofer 2) Front 3) Rear.
How Would I connect the 6 speakers (which I'm going to rewire) to the 1st amp? Do I wire the Speakers to the Amp or Straight to the Head unit itself? Also, how would I connect the amp to the Head unit if it only has the 3 RCA plug-ins as stated above?
Any advice or suggestions are Welcomed. Thanks in advance.
URL: https://able2know.org/topic/434961-1 -
By Wolfram Audio
Now available on the SSA store!
I do NOT check PMs on here. For any questions, email colin@wolframaudio.com
Wolfram Audio W-3000.1:
Specifications:
RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 3,000 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 2,000 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 1,150 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Linked) : 6,500 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10hz~350hz (+/-1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% Low Level Input (Gain) : 8V - 200mV Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Linkable) : Yes Recommended Fuse Rating : 300 Amps 1/0 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included
Wolfram Audio W-1500.1:
Specifications:
RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 1,600 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 900 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 530 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Strapped) : 3,200 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10Hz - 350Hz (+/- 1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% RCA Line Output : Yes Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost @ 45 Hz : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Linkable) : Yes Fuse Rating : 150 Amps (Linked: 300A) 1/0 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included
Wolfram Audio W-600.1:
Specifications:
RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 700 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 380 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 200 Watts x 1 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 2 Ohms (Strapped) : 1,400 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v) Frequency Response : 10Hz - 350Hz (+/- 1db) Working Voltage : 10V-16V Signal-to-Noise Ratio (Sensitivity) : >90dB Efficiency @ 4 Ohms : 86% RCA Line Output : Yes Low Pass Filter : 30Hz - 250Hz Bass Boost : 0 ~ 12 dB Subsonic Filter @ 24 dB Slope : 10Hz - 60Hz Phase Shift : 0-180 Degrees 4-Way Protection Circuitry Built-in (Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC) LED Power & Protection Indicators Master / Slave (Strappable) : Yes Fuse Rating : 30A x2 4 Gauge Power and Ground Terminal Inputs Remote Level Control Knob Included
Wolfram Audio W-125.4:
Specifications:
RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 175 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 125 Watts x 4 Channels (14.4v) RMS Power @ 4 Ohms (Bridged) : 330 Watts x 2 (14.4v) Frequency Response: 15hz to 35khz Low Level Input Adjustment: 0.2v to 8v Signal to noise Ratio: >90 dB Minimum Impedance: 2 Ohm Low Pass Filter: 50hz to 500hz (500hz to 5khz [x10]) High Pass Filter: 50hz to 500hz (500hz to 5khz [x10]) T.H.D. Continuous @ 4ohm : 0.05% Operating Voltage : 10v ~ 16V Fuse Rating : 40A x2
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By mikebingham34
Hello all, I have been away from the forums for some time since graduating college and started working again. Now that I have some money to finally move away from these seemingly low powered setups (6 systems since 2012), I am looking for help with my wall build. I am going to be building the base to the wall in my 2016 Ford Focus sedan in a week or two, and there is a lot of room to work with (over 30 cubes). I will be running 2 18" ZCONs on (undecided) either a 5.5k or 6.5k amp with supporting electrical (batt bank, lots of OFC wire, and HO alt). This is my daily, and I just want a ground pounder with no care to what numbers it'll put up in the lanes. I would like to demo a lot. I'm thinking 8 cubes per sub (16 cubes net) tuned to 32 Hz is a good place to start (recommended by SSA). I'm thinking either a center slot port, or a top port.
** I listen to ALL kinds of music, Decaf/DJSNT, rap, hip hop, metal, rock, 80s/90s pop, jazz, country, movie scores, blues, dubstep/electronic, classic rock, oldies, etc, etc..**
Now... my questions are: How much port area do y'all recommend? Is 8 cubes of net volume per sub a good amount? Should I be alright running an underrated 5500 watt amp, or go with the 6500? What port orientation shall I go with?
If I think of more questions, I will be sure to post them.
P.S. Sorry if I am asking some questions that are common knowledge among these builds, but this is my first "loud" and "high powered" setup. My two loudest systems thus far have been a single Obsidian Audio 15 on about 900 watts, and 2 Sundown Ev3-12's on 1300 watts.
Thank you for your time and patients everyone! Cheers.
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By DedicatedEnthusiast
Hello everyone, long time no see. I am selling a pair of Dual 2-ohm (technically D1.7) 12" Sundown X v.2's built by Dave Leib a.k.a "Strongman Designs."
Reason I am selling them is because I realized upon testing to see if my digital multi-meter was working correctly that one of the coils is reading higher on the one sub indicating that too much heat had been applied to it recently so rather than risking any further damage to it I am going to assume that I have too much power for these.
Having said this in all honesty, let me make it perfectly clear here that both subs are still in perfect working order as we speak, even the one that is reading differently. Had I not thrown my multi-meter on it to test it in order to see if it was working properly (the multi-meter itself) I would have never known there was any difference or discrepancy between the two.
However, because one of them is reading off now and I do not know what is to be expected out of it's performance long-term I will be letting these go for $500+ shipping (that includes both).
Any further questions or concerns please feel free to text me at 440-915-2309
Phil
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