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Alright, I'm sort of confused, and have spent hours/Days/weeks trying to figure this all out, but I'm sort of just in between ideas at the moment. 
I was told you guys were the best, and so I've come here!
If you have any ideas, any help would greatly be appreciated.
and I've tried to help out as much as I can in terms of information..

So essentially I'm at the stage where I already have;

  1. HU - AVIC-F910BT (http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/AVIC-F910BT/page.html) Which for quick reference has Front, Rear and Sub pre-outs. 
  2. 6x9's - JL C2-690TX (http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Speakers/Rear_Speakers/JL_Audio_C2-690TX_6x9_Speakers#.UgkNupIy1x9
  3. and a 2 channel to run them for the mean time..Rated @70W RMS x 2... Conveniently.


For now I'm planning to rewire the current speakers to a  four channel amp (I was thinking http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Amplifiers/Multi-Channel/Boss_Audio_PH4.500_4-Channel_2000W_Amplifier#incar-speaker ?) Then setting the gains down to suit (it is a rather powerful Amplifier for the speakers). After that it's wiring up the amp I already have with the 6x9's, and hooking it all back up to the HU.

With the aim to upgrade to Alpine Type R's (possibly four components) in the near future! And the sub (after that...
 

As for my questions! 

  1. RCA's - How do I get it done?! I was thinking a 1M-2F connector, hooking that up to the 4 CH via Front-out? Using rear-out for 6x9 amp and keeping the other spot free for the sub/amp? 
  2. The reason for the rear doors is because I don't want the system to be too low-end heavy in the back (with a sub and 2x 6x9's). Good call? 
  3. Essentially the amp would be running at 50% of it's capacity.. Is that too low? When the new one's are in I'll be setting gains on the point before they clip (I've been told they're severely underrated @ 110W RMS.. it would get the amp to near 70% of 'RMS' power)
  4. Would it be better to run two four channels, bridging one output for the sub, or three amps (Keeping in mind i have the 2 channel already.. or 2x 4CH listed above is powerful enough)? 
  5. Are capacitors advised/essential / how do they work (Any "4-dummy's" explanation would be fantastic!) 
  6. Speaker wiring.... I've been told 10/12AWG for subs, and 16AWG would be best-suit for the other speakers. Accurate? 
  7. Using Seperate ground wiring for each amp.. is that how it should be done? 
  8. Am I missing any crucial parts? (Bar obviously wiring, and power cable splitter)
  9. Anything else? (Advice? ) 

 

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Michael


 

Edited by Michael Simpson

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1. Yea they have RCA splitters for that.

2. I wouldn't use the rear 6x9s if you're using a sub.

3. It doesn't matter if you run a 5k rms amp on a 500 rms sub lol you will be ok.

4. I don't know if I missed something but I would just run a 2 channel (unless you want to go active then 4 channel) for the front speakers and a mono for the sub. Not sure why you would need all those amps.

5. Fuck the capacitors. It's useless. Someone can explain better than me why they are.

6. Speaker size is good.

7. Same ground is fine. Just make sure it's good and not some flimsy sheet metal.

8/9. Not really sure what else would be missing. Gave advice above!

Hope that helps :)

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1. I was aware of the term Splitter.. never used one though! Glad you can confirm. ;) 

2. Already got them, and they provide more than just bass! However.. The sub is going in later, and well.. The spot is built into my car in the parcel shelf for them!

3. That's what I thought!

4.  So! Plan was to drive four speakers of the first one, (Front, Rear Doors) then ditch the two channel I'm putting in when I get the sub! Replace it with a 4Ch and bridge the other output for the sub? 
"Go Active" ? I've heard the term.. But have no idea what it refers too... Care to help us out? 

5. Ahaha. Something along the lines of "they're good when you lose power for a micro second.. but then suck power (that the amp could otherwise be using) while they recharge? 

6. So sub size isn't? aha. 

7. Planned on sanding back the rear seat bolting and chucking it there! 


Thanks Enrique!

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First of all, just because a car has a place for a speaker from the factory doesn't mean it HAS to be filled.  Second, if you install a subwoofer into the trunk of your car and the trunk is sealed from the cabin of the car (i.e. no place for the pressurized air to go) the forces the sub creates will be wrought on whatever surface it comes in contact with.  With 6x9 speakers mounted in the rear deck of a car it's the cones and because the sub is larger, moves more air and has a good deal more force in doing so than the speakers it will move the cones of the 6x9's.  That leads to damaged and destroyed 6x9 speakers.

 

Installation is the key in that case.  If you can build the sub and it's enclosure to seal up to the cabin of the car at the back seat so that it never pressurizes the trunk then the previous point is moot.  No matter what the 6x9's should still only be used for rear fill, or in other words only to play the ambient background reflections that are picked up by the microphone when the music is recorded.  There's no good reason to spend money on an amplifier for them to perform that role.  Use that money in other places it will be needed such as to buy better front speakers, sound deadening, etc.

 

Capacitors don't work because they don't CREATE power, they leach it.  A capacitor has to be charged by the vehicles charging system and it then stores that power inside it.  When the voltage drops a little the capacitor will discharge slightly which in turn "stiffens" the voltage or doesn't let it drop but the help stops right there.  That little added help lasts for an instant, a split second, that's all.  It's voltage will drop with the rest of the system and then when the current demand is over the charging system has to charge the capacitor along with the batteries and everything else.  Do that over, and over, and over again and all of a sudden it's no longer doing ANYTHING to help and is hurting because of the load it's creating on the charging system.  IF you truly need to upgrade something in your electrical system it's NOT with a capacitor.  Start with a GOOD strong starting battery, BIG 3, and clean every ground connection between the engine, frame and body that you can reach.  Then if you're still having voltage problems typically it's cheaper to add a second battery than it is to upgrade to a HO alternator.  The second battery will help provide additional current during the big demands, but considerably more so than the capacitor but it too is still a load on the system.  If you're at the point that your current alternator is unable to keep up with the large demands, especially for prolonged periods then you'll have to look into upgrading it.  This is a rough and crude explanation of how all this works but I think it's easy enough to understand.  You've not mentioned what kind of power you're looking at running total.  Most people are okay with up to 1,500 watts of power on the stock electrical with no extra batteries and sometimes no extra upgrades at all.  It's completely dependent on the vehicle, the amps being used and the listening habits of the person.  Every combination is different and has different results so it's best to throw a voltage meter on it from the start.  Then monitor it and upgrade your electrical as necessary.

 

Going active is when each and every speaker set, usually separates like components, are connected to their own amplifier and each has it's own crossover controlling the frequencies they play.  An example would be a pair of tweeters on one amp, the mids on another amp and the sub on another.  It takes a processor of some sort to control the crossovers for each set of speakers and a great deal of time listening, adjusting, and tweaking these setups.  They're not for beginners and not what you were thinking before this.  The idea is to give the user control over every aspect of each set of speakers that cover a specific range of frequencies so that they can be utilized correctly and blend together for a more harmonious response.

 

Your speaker and sub wiring size is fine, unless you're looking to run 3kw or better to your subs, lol.  Unless you're looking at running really high power there's no need to worry that much about the wiring size to the subs or speakers.  In most daily listening applications those two sizes are fine for those applications.

 

Try to find a substantial piece of steel to connect your ground to.  The heavier the steel the better it can flow current.  Locations like the tops of the rear shock towers are heavier steel and make a better location to ground to.  When it comes to amplifiers in a car it's all about current flow.  The better the current flow the better the voltage stays up and the cooler everything operates.  Bad grounds and other connections have resistance, resistance leads to voltage drops which in turn increases the current flow and creates heat.  Ever seen pictures where people have had a fuse holder melt?  That's due to a bad connection and the resistance it causes.

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1. I was aware of the term Splitter.. never used one though! Glad you can confirm. ;) 

2. Already got them, and they provide more than just bass! However.. The sub is going in later, and well.. The spot is built into my car in the parcel shelf for them!

3. That's what I thought!

4.  So! Plan was to drive four speakers of the first one, (Front, Rear Doors) then ditch the two channel I'm putting in when I get the sub! Replace it with a 4Ch and bridge the other output for the sub? 

"Go Active" ? I've heard the term.. But have no idea what it refers too... Care to help us out? 

5. Ahaha. Something along the lines of "they're good when you lose power for a micro second.. but then suck power (that the amp could otherwise be using) while they recharge? 

6. So sub size isn't? aha. 

7. Planned on sanding back the rear seat bolting and chucking it there! 

Thanks Enrique!

Meant size of wire for both sub and speakers is good lol

Alton answers the rest of the questions and goes into a lot of detail. Whatever he says is right haha he knows his shit!

Last thing is if I were you. I would run a 2 channel to a set of components (4 channel if you go active and Alton explains active) and a monoblock class d amp to the sub or subs. This would also be less money.

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