SPL & SQ / Fabrication

so im trying to figure out how to design my own boxes and learn how to use these calculators need advice on how this looks like if its right or wrong please. im looking to build a enclousre with subs up port back going into my hatchback integra. subs i will be using are 3 skar vvx 8s. ive had a couple other threads with this same thing but since i have limited space to use and want to try a aero port now. want it to be tuned either 32 hz or 33hz not sure i want to hit the lows i mostly listen to rap/hip hop and some rock but mostly rap/hip hop. please take a look and give me advice on what you guys think thanks.

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

okay guys im making my brother- in-laws box and i was cutting with a jigsaw and made a little curve by any chance do you think it will be okay because you have no clue how worried i am about this i mean i want to do it right but i just hope i didn't mess it up if anybody thinks it's fine just send me a p.m or just put it on here because i really REALLY need to know......

This is what I have right now Most of these number where pulled from another Tahoe build to give me a base. Ok now I just messed around with the port length until I got the tuning I wanted (33-35). I don't really get how it is longer than the box? This my first box design and is a temp. box for me to use about a month or so. Sub will be powered by a Cresendo 2k at .5 or 2ohm depending on voltage gain All the way down, and I'm going to take it easy. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

I managed a 148.2 at 25Hz a year ago in a vehicle that was NOT designed for competition, let alone SPL. I simply wanted a vehicle that could get pretty loud, pretty low, and yet still sound very clear. Out of curiosity I went and got metered to see how loud it was below 30Hz. When I did so I got bombarded with "well this guy with 24 15's in 4th order got a 161 @ 25Hz" and "well this guy got a 154 with just 2 10's at 25Hz". Later some guy, who despite being from this forum was very polite and nice, comented on some of my posts. He was installing 2 18's and tuning around 30Hz IIRC. So I joked and said I'd give him my other alternator if he could beat my 148 @ 25Hz. He tol…

It's for real

I was wondering if the port calculater on the carstereo.com page was worth a poo? I used it to build my explorer (8 kicker comp 12"s and a 2500.1) as that worked out perfect......but i used it to build my 4runner (2 hk802sx amps, and 4 SSD 15''s loaded) and it doesnt impress me at all....so i think i figured out why.....here is the link to the page http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 But here is my real question...when you are calculating your port.....and you punch in all your factors and the end result tells you how long your port should be.....Does this program already remove the port displacement? Im assuming it does since you have to figure in your tota…

I have a 2000 Toyota 4runner.. Throwing in 4 old skool 15" ROCKFORD FOSGATE HX2. Sorry, I had to put the name in caps for respect!! Anywho, I got some measurements here... I want the box 40" (width from wheel well to wheel well) x 36" (length from back seat to back door) x 20" (from bottom to top). So measurements are 40"x36"x20", outside measurements (roughly 16 cubic ft) . Here are my questions... Has anybody had 4 15" subs facing down towards the floor and had rectangle port facing up? My reason is, if you look real close at my pic, you can see 2 6x9 Kenwwods bolted on top of box. Also, I usually haul wood and crap for my work and would really hate to get a sub busted…

Just put my old Alpine 9831 back in, when i turn the ignition over I get the loudest pop ive ever heard, all door speakers and sub real loud. Im thinking its the ground on the HU but im not sure. The wireharness for this HU is kind of ghetto, I got it off of ebay and there was no remote wire, so im pulling of the switched wire. Heading out to ground it better, what do you guys think it could be? Ive had the HU hooked up in the car before but never with an amp. the internal amp on hte HU is blown FYI, not that it matters much.

I apologize for asking a question that has been asked plenty of times before, but I couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for. I have an OBS Tahoe with 2 18s, subs up ports back (4 aero ports along the bottom). I need to secure the box to the floor, as it's shaking around pretty badly. My question is, is there an optimal distance to have between the end of the port and the trunk lid? I've read where people just say to put it at different distances and just try it out, but this is no help to me because A. I don't have a termlab and B. the box is moving so rapidly that it pushes itself away in a few seconds anyway. I'd rather not drill holes through the floor until I…

Alright, well as stupid as this Topic sounds, i have had a lot of questions from other people and myself. When you are building a box we all know that people don't just use 1 layer of MDF, they use 2-3 in heavy applications. In my instance, building a wall. So when i first started thinking/building my wall, i asked a older friend of mine (who is an aerospace engineer) to help me with building this. The only reason i add this in is to try and explain that he isn't a complete idiot. He also explained to me that because he works with airplanes he understands the concept of how vibrations cause things to break and how things have to be sealed. Not only that but he is very cra…

I am looking to get a 15"or 18" to go into a sealed box for sq. Leaning towards the 15" at the moment. Car: 98 Mustang Location: Trunk Amp: MTX te1501d (birthsheet @ 1 ohm is 1556 rms @ 13.8 volts) Wires: 0 gauge on big 3, main battery to second battery in trunk, & from second battery to sub amp. 4 gauge to highs/mid amp from second battery. Stock 130a alt. but I'm getting a 270 Mechman and xs 3100d( will be under rear seat) when i order the sub or shortly after. If i go with the 15 the box will be 26.5L x 26.5D x 11H about 3.5 cubes before displacement. Sub will be upward firing. I'm tossing up the idea of the 18" but don't have experience with 18's. Any idea's if t…

I hope there are a lot of wall or has-been wall users out there that can contribute to this thread. I'd like to see some suggestions for wall users on increasing their spl potential. I am about to seal my wall up soon so after i do, won't be too much more moddin possible in that area of the car. I'm lookin for 155s hopefully. I'm wanting to stay in Modified 3 in MECA and i am assuming they'll qualify me for that class... I have a scion tc with a wall behind the b pillar about 5 inches back. I will be using 1 60A fuse for each of my 2 3500ds. I am wide open to suggestions to get louder.... I have yet to meter myself the MECA way but in the driver kick i did 151.7 clip-fre…

Well, it seems that i will be getting these subwoofers a bit quicker than i thought.. Haven't order them quite yet but i decided that getting a ported box design ready couldn't hurt. Trunk Dimensions: Height = 19" (So i was thinking box should be around 17.5" maximum) Width = 36" (Narrowest point near the back seats) = 47" (More towards middle of trunk) Depth = 36" (Need room for battery, amplifiers, ect.) Now iv never dealt with Q's before so im not really sure what i should tune the port for.. It says anywhere from 28-33hz, now i listen to all types of music so i was thi…

Hey guys. Looking to do my first bandpass 4th order. The reason for this enclosure would be to push all pressure into the cabin of a car through a ski port behind the center rear seat. I understand how vented and sealed enclosures are designed, however bandpass 4ths seem to confuse me a bit. I have searched and found many sources, but I get strange or mixed answers. Please help me clear up some things. I am looking for a transient response with good output. Hoping to get the lows in my passed frequency without sacraficing too much of the 60-80hz range. I have heared that the sealed portion will mainly control the Low Pass and the ported portion will mainly control the Hig…

to all the people in california this is the event you have to compete in this season! freeland is still trying to make a decision on where the south cali event is going to take place in its between castle park in riverside or at knotts berry farm!! i will keep you guys posted!!

I'm running 1 SSA DCON in a 2.3ft^3 ported box at 31hz, its down firing in a 02 GMC sierra on a Diamond Audio 400.1. It just doesn't seem to hit the low low notes like my last subs, I dont know if its because its ported and they were sealed or if its the Subsonic filter or what, just looking for suggestions. I can feel the lows and the port fires like a hurricane, I just can't hear them that well, it seems to be only below around 30hz, for everything else it slams, and seems to play everything accurately.

now... this is my first wall that i will be doing. and i am not to sure on how to go about starting. i already have a cardboard mock-up of the false floor...but thats it. my car has alot of wierd curves etc, so im not sure how to exactly "measure" my deminsions. so how would i get a volume? i will need someone to design 2 ports for me as well. basically, how do i start? any info is appreiciated. its 4 DCON 15"s off of a sax1200 here is some pics of the rear. its going BEHIND the 2nd row of seats.

So last time I entered an spl I tied a guy with two 10" solo x's and a rockford fosgate t3000, and there's another in 2 weeks and im sure he will be there. I dont want to risk damaging my sub by upping the gains or voltage any more than i did last time, but perhaps i can adjust the box/ place it in my car differently? The box is a little over 4^3 at 31, and it is about a foot back in my trunk facing into the car. Only ideas i have now are putting 45's in my corners to help flow and raise tuning, and face the sub towards the trunk. Are there any little tricks anyone knows about to give me just a .1 or .2 db gain?

I am currently trying to make my doors more rigid. I was going to use 1/8" thick aluminum bars but I do not want to weld them to my door skin as I will have to repaint my car. I was told I could use pl premium but I have no way of clamping them down for 24 hours. Here is my solution I was going to just coat the inner skin of the doors with multiple layers of fiberglass. To get this to stick to the skin I am kind of clueless. Would sanding the door with a heavy grit prior to fiberglassing be enough?

Well, i just did some testing with about 30 songs and frequencies from 27-55hz individually with positioning a ported and sealed box around in the hatch to determine what sounds loudest to the ear. I only faced sealed forward, everything else is for ported. This test though is with port and sub on same side. I have a sub up port back box but no sub to fit it, lol Sealed firing forward, right behind rear seat - Basically everything just drops in output. IT all sounds the same, just quieter so that definitely isn't recommended. Fire rear, box against the back seat- the mid range 50-60hz seems to hit hardest by doing this but not by much more than firing directly forward! …

I'm designing a box with the help of the torres box calc and sketchup and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or if this looks right. I believe I included all necessary dimensions, but if I forgot any let me know. The subs will be mounted on double baffle up top, with rear facing port. Any help/suggestions/comments are appreciated!

Well I sat down tonight thinking I have most things ordered, I may want to double check my trunk space. I re measured and I was off a few inches on the height. My trunk space is 40W by 42depth by 18 high. This will give me about 14.07 cubic feet of total area. Now if I were to build a box and have it exactly 6 cubic feet with an external port to save room this would leave me with 8 cubic feet remaining. I have a feeling I may not have enough air flow to keep a 18 BTL in the trunk ($^%@). I do (i think) have enough room to store one but I would be starving it for air. I measured one of the seats and its about 2.5 feet by about 4 feet in height. I could lower the back to al…

Ok. So I keep hearing different things from different people. Maybe some people over here have some decent advice since im not getting it else where. So I have a DD3512. DD recommends 2.5cu ft ported at 40 hz for their enclosure. Some of the local guys here who run DD say NO. that I need about 4cu ft ported about 36-38hz for one DD 12. Then another guy I was talking to online who tests TS parameters and sub on a daily basis says that the 3512 can play great in a box down to a cu ft. but is good in about 2-2.5cu ft ported at about 34hz. WTF?! All these dimensions contradict eachother and I know DD isnt a super woofer that can play in anything so someone help me out …

I would like some input on building an enclosure for 2 ZCON 15D2's. The max cubes available for the box is 7(3.5 per sub) after displacements. I want to tune at 31hz. I have seen the recommendations SSA's site for enclosures but would like to have some outside information on how well these will do in 7 cubes . They will be running off a SAZ3500 at .5ohms. Thanks.