Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Sooo... I took advantage of the black today sale and I ordered a xcon18" D2. And I can either get the new sundown 1500D ($400 shipped NEW). Or find a new 2000D ($? Used/refurb). What would you recomend? (Based solely on either 250 over or under...) im not to worried about the little price difference if there is one. I think that im leaning towards the 2000d . Just because 250 more watts on a 1750watt sub doesn't seem like that much more. Problem is finding one. Db-r doesn't have any now. Will be ordering it in december some time. Just want opinions. I guess ill go ahead and let you guys know this is my very first system. And install of any kind(never have even installeda …

My deck is rated at 4 volt preamp but when I measured it I get 4.1 volts at maximum volume on my subwoofer RCA and 0.7 volt on my front and rear. The deck manual States 4 volt at 10 percent Distortion so my question is should I pick up a 3-way line driver, cap the deck volume at three quarters, and use the line driver to boost the one volt and 3 volt signal up to 6 volt?

You may be wondering why I made this thread but us people need to know... Considering the hifonics brutus BRZ1200.1 is CEA appliant. Which one would be a better choice comparing to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? From what i know the BRZ-1200.1D is rated 900RMS at 2 ohm and 1200 at 1ohm and the sundown SAZ-1000.1D is rated 600@ 2ohm and 1000@1ohm. They both fall at the same price of 280$ shipped. But does the hifonics brutus. BRZ 1200.1D have a challange to the sundown SAZ-1000.1D?? HIFONICS - Brutus BRZ Amplifiers Sundown Audio - SAZ-1000D

Hi All, Im in the market for a good EQ for my car. I want to control as much as possible without breaking the bank. im no where near sure what makes an EQ good or what a good price for one is. bassically i want to control the subwoofers frequencies. like from 25 to 80. im not sure if there is an EQ out there that has that capability, so thats why im posting. let me know. thanks, Anton Miller

I currently have a 750 ca ac delco battery in my 2001 Buick lesabre. I'm going to be running my sundown sae 1200 @ 2 ohms for awhile and then may be adding a sub and dropping to one ohm. My car has a stock 130 amp alt. I have a kinetik hc1400 from my last system that is just sittin around and haven't gotten much interest when I tried selling it locally so figured might as well use it if it'll be better. First off can kinetiks be used as stand alone batteries? I don't want to run two batteries, so I'm wondering if the kinetik I have would be better then the ac delco battery in the car, like will it be noticably better?

I've talked about this subject with a couple people and I was looking for more opinions. My current system is Head Unit: Alpine iDA-X305S Front Stage: (4) 7" AA Carbon Fibers (1) SAX-100.4 (4) Selenium ST200s (1) SAX-125.2 Sub Stage: (2) 15" AA SMD (2) SAZ-3500D strapped Electrical: (1) Yellow Top (4) XS Power D3100 (1) DC Power 320 Amp Alt I'm thinking about upgrading my sub amps to (2) SAZ-4500Ds strapped, will I notice any audible difference or any difference on a TL, is so how much? I would upgrade my electrical along with the amps. Thanks, Dom.

Looking to possibly upgrade to 2 15" zcons and was looking at the bc5500. Just wondering what kind of electrical people were running to these. And how the felt about that amp. I have a 320 amp DC alt with 2 yellow tops in the back. I think I should be fine but can add more yellow tops if needed.

I had originally planned on buying a Q2200.1D to power my Ethos. After reading a thread of clamp test numbers and seeing it puts out less that 1.6k after box rise and voltage drop I'm not so sure any more. I've been looking through ads on a local audio FB page and found a SKAR 2500 for less than I'd pay new for the SQ. I know SKAR isn't well liked because of the owner, but I'm not putting money in his pocket. Just looking for the best bang for the buck. Whatever amp I decide on, what should I look for/check? I've always been leery of buying used, but I could stand to save half the cost of a good amp.

Hello I have an 86 Crown Vic with a currently fried stock 65 amp alt. I replaced the stock one with a stock replacement junkyard alt about three weeks ago. And it went out again yesterday. I plan on upgrading in the future but for now i plan on doing the big three when i have the chance, Im hoping that will help my alt last a little longer. Im running a kicker 300.1 now to 1 sub. In the future i want to upgrade my system. I was looking at this alt:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCI-N7755-11HO/ and was wondering if that alternator would be enough to support maybe 1000-1500 wrms? Thanks for the help.

So I just installed (yesterday) my brand spank'in new Kenwwod KDC-X994. I soldered all my connections and I am using the units built in power to power my factory speakers. I am building a system and need tunes to hold me over so that's why I am running HU power. Today on my way to work I had that volume at 28/35 for one song. Half way through the song the volume slowly decreases and stays there for 5 seconds than slowly increase. Hmmm what the hell! I never had a HU do this. I continued to listen as the volume would fluctuate from "loud" to soft. I knew I didn't have a connection issue, just based on the frequency and duration that the volume was changing, it wasn't an ab…

So here's a quick overview of my setup as it sits: amplifier - older Lanzar Vibe 420 (http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=2393) Front components - Polk db6501 (Brand New, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9109_Polk-Audio-db6501.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=10352811&SearchClickout[ignore]=1) rear subwoofer (bridged on amp channels 3/4) - older Kenwood 10", 150 wRMS, single 4 ohm, in a 1.36 cu ft ported box remote turn-on module - (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18693_PAC-TR-4.html?SearchClickout[query_id]=10352736&SearchClickout[ignore]=1) So for some reason, even with the turn on module providing a 2 second delay, I still get a lot of "thump." …

Well, I didn't mean to buy it but I'm glad to have it, at least for now, lol. Found an auction for a used AG650 in great working shape with 5 days left to go. I tossed in a bid $5 higher than the current high bid and was the high bidder. I figured for sure someone would have come in and outbid me fast on it, but nope, I ended up winning it. Yay for me, I think. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it or not, so if anyone's interested you can always make me an offer, lol. So anyway, onto a few pictures for shits and giggles. Larger than I expected it to be. It's in beautiful shape with only a few minor scratches.

Looking for a bit of advice on purchasing a new amp/amps. Ill be running a pair of D2 crossfire XSV2 15s tuned around 30hz. My dilemma is whether I would get more out of (ie more power, less rise): A pair of 2.5k amps (probably Skar 2500), bridged and wired to 1ohm each OR A single 5k amp run at .5ohm Electrical is: 2 runs 1/0 OFC (one is knu, other is memphis) and 1/0 Big 3 Kinetic HC2400 up front 3 deka group 34 AGMs in the back (55ah a piece, 750cca) 270a-320a altenator (will be added after amps) Thanks in advance for any help!

What is required for an active speaker system? What features should you look for in a headunit and amplifier?

ok so i need a good 4channel for my cdt-ef61fg comps and my pioneer 6x9s in the back so i need a decent amount of power.i was looking at the pg xenon 200.4 or maybe the jbl gto 75.4 but im not sure,do you guys have any other suggestions about some good amps for under $250???? right now i have a crappy alpine mrp-240...(40x4) and the comps kinda sound flat so i need something to bump them up to par....

I will be installing a 270amp Alternator and looking to put either 2 Xs D3100's or maybe something else i guess some like the Xp 3000's for daily ? I will be powering 2 Sundown Saz 3000d's at a final ohm load of 2ohm's (Each amp will see 1ohm load) didn't know if ohm load made a difference but none the less. Just looking what would work best and make me not have to worry about frying my amps or having the chance of heating these amps up big time from huge voltage drops etc. I might be looking at throwing up a diehard platinum 31m in the front if it will fit as well as doing the big 3. Also how many runs of 0gauge should i run from the front battery to the back ? Doing …

So my midbass amp shuts off after 15-20 minutes of hard playing. I am pretty sure I am asking the amp to do more than it is capable of, BUT also know my mounting location is NOT ideal. SO heres the details. The amp is a Alpine MRP-F600, capable of 300 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms. I have the amp mounted on the back of the box, with the vents running side to side, in a SEALED trunk. The midbass drivers are Aura NS10-513-4A, Aurasound NS10-513-4A 10" Subwoofer NLA from Madisound The Auras are rated @ 200 watt RMS and 800 peak. I have the Aura's crossed @ HPF 50hz 12db slope, LPF 400hz 12db slope. The Aura' are mounted IB in the front doors. There is TWO other amplifiers in th…

Currently have 1 run each 1/0 gauge wire on a 180 amp alt with 3 kinetik batteries on the back (running 1 audioque 3500d.1 in the back). My voltage at ilde is dropping to around 12 volts and at 2000 rpm it is dropping to around 12.3 to 12.5 volts when i'm cranking it up for demos. My question is would adding another run or two of 1/0 help keep my voltage up or do i need a bigger alt?

I'm looking at this kit for my 96accord to wire an SAE-1000D in my trunk to an ssa icon. Its the first time I'm doing anything like this, so I am trying to ensure I don't mess anything up. I tried to search but didn't find anything. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4 and this one http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4 The only difference I see is that the cheaper one comes with a 5m RCA cable instead of 6m, and also says the RCA has a built in turn on lead. So if I go with this one, I will have absolutely everything I need to wire my sub amp. And with regards to wiring, I have to keep the RCA and power cable separate, cor…

Audioque has been working on a new project that they may be deciding to release this spring of 2010! It will either be one or 2 different 10kd models but this is what he has said- Pricing will still be fair and cheap based on current models pricing. This 10,000w amp is stated to be rated at 10,000w @1ohm in between 12-14.4v @1%THD. There will also be a 20,000w rated @18v. This monsterous amp will have 3 sets of 1/0 PWR\GND terminals. I'm sure there will be a warning about having an upgraded electrical system, lol. Pricing still hasn't been announced yet and since Digital Designs has dropped out of the "Big Ass Amp Market", that leaves only AQ and a select few other compan…

Whats up all. Just wanting to get some info Budjet amps. reccomendations, ones to stay away from. Looking to go 1k to 1500rms @ 1 ohm. Budget would be right around 200.00. All input is appreciated.

Hey guys, Im looking for a Digital Designs Z1 or Z2 amp for my 18" Fi BTL. Anyone who has one/knows where i can find one for a reasonable price (not like theyre going to be very cheap anyways..haha) lemme know. Thanks in advance. Peace

I was looking for a 1000 watts RMS amplifier at either 2 or 1 ohm... I am gonna put it to a 12" Fi SSD... Also, how much of a difference in sound will there be between 750rms and 1000rms? I was looking at a zx1000.1 but was wondering if there is anything as good for cheaper... I figured if i got it at 1 ohm it would be cheaper for the wattage vs. 2 ohm 1000 watts...

ok my friend has a kicker 1500, and another has a lunar 1500 (made in louisiana, really good), but the guy says its really only 500 TRUE watts, but it is just as loud as the kicker, if not better, can anyone explain this to me?

Amp Name: Audiopipe AP-30001D Specs: 2000w @ 4Ω 3000w @ 2Ω Pictures (required): Reference/Credit : Bigpimpin91