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Here is a link to Fi Technical. Read the red x mark stickied posts. This should explain all you need to know! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?/forum/68-fi-technical/

Sorry i just really dont see what you mean. fact is i dont know much about how is a sub is built so thats why i asked, if it cant be done then cool I'll move on to an other plan. i would say its more like asking the dealer what can be done with the car before i drive it off the lot. Personally to me it wouldnt matter what sub it is thats why i worte what im trying to get which is a nice soundsing sub that can take 2500 watts. Ask yourself this...do you need to run that much power or is there any reason that you should need to run that much power? Or should you probably follow what is suggested and recommended...so let's look at a scenario. You purchase a car..from a dealer. They assume the following: A) You can read as you probably read the gas mileage, warranty information, etc. B) They do not care if you can read or not...you signed and/or clicked the "I agree to the terms and conditions" without even reading them..so if you do manage to break it it is your fault because you did not read the warranty that you signed away that you read. If you do blow the car up the manufacturer/dealer is completely off the hook due to your signature. You purchased a car to go 70mph on the interstate in 5th gear to cruise daily for 300,000 miles..because it should be known that is why there is a 5th gear to travel at that speed. Or you can buy the very same car, attempt to take it 70mph on the interstate in 1st gear at 6500rpm depending on gearing of course..and you might make it 3 miles before the engine grenades. The dealer did not say that you couldn't do that..but it is recommended that you do not. Resulting in the 'abuse' clause in the warranty..because you abused it. Any idiot knows that you can't drive down the interstate in 1st gear and expect a car to last...speakers being mechanical devices are simply no different then the car. Case in point..you don't need that kind of power. Nor should you run a car in 1st gear down the interstate...if you want it to last anyhow.

Yea $200 for a pair of subs isn't much. I pretty much have my mind set on getting those. I checked out a bunch of subs and there's always something i dont like about them. From specs to looks there's really not much out there. I could get some kickers but damn everyone gets kicker. Now i just have to sell the Fi SSD 12 i have and get the PG's. I heard good highs before the Fi and i heard really good lows with the Fi so im curious how this is going to end up. Then i'll be set for a while and can save up for some real drivers . what dont you like about the SSD? I like the SSD it's a beast on lows but cuts off pretty early on the high end. And also i want to change to two 10's. In sub woofers, cone size has very little to do with frequency response. I suggest rebuilding your box, adjust your tuning and amp setting, and/or have your mid-bass' come down lower, if not improve your mid-bass speakers.

Sporting the SSA sticker at the competition this weekend Installation judging, yeah fuckers, I have PB board to show you everything is under the window line 147.3, new personal best. And a 147.7 in the free runs when everything was over. Pics were taken by some other competitor, so the sticker pic isn't intentional.