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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2009 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    From left to right: Standard pole cut out of bar stock prior to being turned down. Middle is a pole with a Pchamfer on it. Right is the 'Hyper pole' option on the new BL's. We do all of this here in house on either one of the CNC's or Lathes depending on the part...just an infinite amount of flexibility of what we 'can' do .
  2. 1 point
    Sure... Standard ones have no axial cooling vents or any other machine work done to them. You get that with the BP option
  3. 1 point
    Done. He didn't much appreciate it though.
  4. 1 point
    If Knights always tell the truth then A and B can't be Knights. Knaves never tell the truth though, So both of them can't be Knaves. If I just could figure out how to set-up the truth-function table lol. B is a Knave and A is a Knight Proof: B's Statement can be written as, "A is a Knave and B is a Knave". If B was a Knight he would have had to say he was so because Knights never lie, and if he did lie that would be a contradiction. Therefore B is a Knave Now, looking at the statement again that we know is false (because B is a Knave). We know that the second half of the statement is true so the first half must be false. (If the first half was true as well then the entire statement would be true contradicting the bases of being a Knave) Therefore is A is not a Knave he must be a Knight Therefore A is a Knight and B is a Knave Q.E.D.
  5. 1 point
    this made it to the rides section... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/rides/jay-c76s-ranger-icons.html
  6. 1 point
    You guys had fun while I was traveling. Listen to both the 12m and the L4 on a baffle in free field in the midrange frequencies and you will no longer think the L4 is special at all. In fact, I'd bet you don't like it. Comparing two installs or even the same install with different drivers in vehicles doesn't show anything but only exposes the install. We ALL know that the install is what really affects things. Your SQ comments are funny to me, some of us are ONLY SQ guys. Loud means jack shit to me, but you on the other hand are talking about using midbasses and 6.5's together in an install....obviously I realize we all make compromises but that one makes no sense.
  7. 1 point
    No, I gave the Qts as measured by Zaph Audio, as I specifically stated in my post. The Qms of the 12m isn't even close to .52 I'm more than a bit confused as to how you could misinterpret me, when I specifically stated that it was the Qts of the 12m as measured by Zaph. http://www.zaphaudio...st/compare.html the Qms or moving mass of the L4 is half of that of the 12m. The L4 does have a lower stated Qms and moving mass......but I'm failing to see the point of you mentioning that as it doesn't make one driver better or worse than the other. I have heard both in sponsored team installs that were both top-notch. I spoke with both installers, and also demoed both vehicles. One vehicle was using scanspeak drivers and the other hybrid drivers. the scanspeak driver had a LPF on it at 4khz because it got extremely sharp and unnatural above that range. not a big deal as tweeters are used for that range anyway, but for versatility the L4's ability to play up and through 17khz perfectly clean is an advantage. on the low-end, the 12m drops off pretty hard ~140 hz. and it even struggles at ~160 hz. the 8" drivers used in the scanspeak install were xover at 160 as that was the lowest installer felt was still reproduced efficiently by the scanspeak. the L4 was crossovered down at least to 125 hz in the three team hybrid demo's I got. and one of them had it rolling off naturally on a 12db/slope at 100hz. That is quite impressive for a 4" mid. Unfortunately how two different installers used one particular driver in their particular installations does not characterize the drivers as a whole.....simply how they were used in that particular install, in that particular vehicle, tuned by that particular installer. It's not a valid comparison, hence the usefulness of objective measurements. Just to give a different example of how experiences for different people in different installations will vary.....Many people who have used the JBL 2118H will tell you that they are no good below 80hz, yet Mark Eldridge used them in his vehicle down to 40hz. i say nowhere near the power capabilites because of audible clarity loss and distortion levels of the 12m at higher volumes. The L4's, although recommended to xover at 140 hz at higher levels remains perfectly clean and clear with even more than the rated 175 watts of power. (note at this volume it is hardly an SQ demo, but does show capabilities of the drivers) Again, I request a valid reference for this statement. Saying "because that's what I heard" is not a valid reference, especially when comparing two different installations in two different vehicles. Again I will mention the usefulness of objective measurements. the L4 is the only midrange on the market to stay within 2 db SPL on the response curve within its recommended xover points or frequency response. Again, I request independent objective measurements that confirm this. the scanspeak, like the average midrange varies by 5db. that is a huge difference. Zaph's graph I posted earlier shows it's within 3db from approx 150hz to approx 7.5khz. While Scanspeak doesn't really provide "recommended xover points" as they are more in the OEM/DIY market, I'd say that reasonably covers the range most 4" drivers are used within, and 3db is a standard range of acceptability. the L4 uses a lighter motor structure and larger magnet resulting in less moving mass and higher control. audiblly the results are a quicker smoother response and the ability to play the very high frequencies. What marketing literature did you get that from? The L4 may have lower Mms, but the 12m has higher motor force (both in terms of strictly BL and BL^2/Re). So the L4 does not have a "larger magnet" (i.e. stronger motor). Regardless, your first sentences does not prove the second. The more you attempt to discuss the driver objectively, the easier it is to see you don't actually understand it. I don't understand why you guys, who to my knowledge, may be wrong and do not want to assume, but to my knowledge are not SQ experts and do not spend much time with SQ. While nobody here is an "expert", you would be horribly wrong to presume that many of us here are not interested in the quality of sound moreso than quantity. Hybrid has proven itself as a world class audio driver since the beginning of the company. I did extensive research and had the opportunity to get a few demos from many amazing SQ cars, and in the end I chose Hybrid Audio. I will agree that great sounding speakers and what you think the best sounding speakers is very much personal opinion, which is why I have made several recommendations to the OP. IMO Hybrid is and until I find something better to me the best out there. especially for the money. if you disagree and like something fine, Are you getting paid for all of the marketing you provide them? If not, you should be. but it is quite obvious I can back up my reasoning Actually, you have yet to back up your reasoning with anything substantial. Thus far it's all been a subjective marketing-propaganda type of approach from you, and when more objective details are brought up you generally provide nothing useful or don't understand the subject matter. I will say I find it funny how when Hybrid Audio is a part of the SSA forum it's a great speaker, and now they are not, everytime I mention it someone that is adament SSA has to try and cut them down. I'm not here to try and influence anyone to feel that what I feel is the best they should also, and I don't understand why you guys are seeming to do just that. If you could provide anything objective that backed up your opinion, I'd be all for it. Thus far, you've failed to do so. And if you go back and read my posts, the only negative comment I have made against Hybrid is that the one driver I've seen objectively tested wasn't really anything special. So far I've simply been asking you to provide some kind of real support for your comments....which you've really yet to do. So far they only thing you've really provided is that 1) you've listened to them and liked them, and 2) they've won some trophies. BTW: Name what hybrid vehicle any of you have sat in and demoed. Name them, please, I would love to know. None. I would also love to know what drivers you believe are the best and then show results of any good sized SQ competition in the last few years where they have proven themselves, and dont' give the trophies don't mean anything BS, they aren't everything, but you can def. get an idea of what is worth running and what isn't by going to competitions. You would have to be extremely ignorant or naive to believe there is a "best" anything. So it's a relatively stupid question to begin with. But, to throw you a bone....when the weather gets warm again (doubt I'll have time to finish the system before winter) I will be using Image Dynamics CD2Neo full body horns (which have been used in dozens of award winning and world-championship sound quality vehicles) with a pair of either JBL 2118H mids (used by the likes of Mark Eldridge and Dr. Doug Winker, et al, to win many sound quality trophies, awards and world-championships) or CSS Trio8's (they are newcomers to the speaker world so they have no pedigree). I have both of the mids, plan to try them both and see which I prefer.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Heres a good one i took of my 18's
  10. 1 point
    This is from shizzzon from another topic like this Now from my experience, caps are a good "buffer" for electrical systems that don't have alot of current passing through, like SQ systems and Tirefryr and SO RIGHT. capacitors are marketed to "stop your lights from dimming" and that is not true cap will ADD stress to the system
  11. 1 point
    You'd ignore an email saying "I want to buy your product, but this is a big deal about me ordering. Send me pics and I will order."? I hate to think what will happen if something goes wrong and I need some customer service. I haven't even purchased the product yet. It's not like I don' already have a couple grand of car audio stuff laying around. ANY other company I have emailed has been responsive. Even if it took awhile. From focal to dynaudio. they have a new email its Orders@FiCarAudio.com
  12. 1 point
    You'd ignore an email saying "I want to buy your product, but this is a big deal about me ordering. Send me pics and I will order."? I hate to think what will happen if something goes wrong and I need some customer service. I haven't even purchased the product yet. It's not like I don' already have a couple grand of car audio stuff laying around. ANY other company I have emailed has been responsive. Even if it took awhile. From focal to dynaudio.
  13. -1 points
    To whoever asked why not just replace: When you run wires in parallel (a.k.a. Bi-Wirring) it will take the resistance of both wires and half it. Therefore if wire 1 can carry 100 amps and wire 2 can carry 300, you now have 400A capacity. It never HURTS to run too much wire, only not enough will hurt you. As to grounding to the chassis...There was an EXTENSIVE study done a while ago on some forum, it concluded that while some better and some a bit worse, most cars chassis when you ground to it can support between the average 4ga braided ("car audio") power and 2ga briaded wire. If you plan on running 2ga or above for power wire, I would suggest running a ground to the chassis and another directly to the battery. This would be your best bet and would support future upgrades more easily (ex. if you want to put an extra battery in your trunk with an extra amp)...
  14. -1 points
    I have owned that hifonics amp your looking at and it is a very good budget amp but I had a few problems with it in the few months I owned it. I switched to sundown and have had no problems with the products yet. If you are looking into sundown amps and have a tight budget you can also look into db-r. They sell refurbished sundown amps for pretty good prices and they work great. I have the 100.4 and the 1500 and got both from there. I noticed you didnt say anything about your wiring. Whatever you go for with for your electrical you will want to make sure to do the big 3. I doubt youll be able to run even a single 18" btl on just a stock battery so I would advise doing all your electrical upgrades now especially if you are looking into getting another one in the future.
  15. -1 points
    that car is kinda ugly meh ok really ugly. The sounds look like they sounds good. But meh i wouldnt wana be caught dead in a car looking like that . Even if it sounds good. Makes people look at it more.
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