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Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera with me, but here are the pics my buddy took. Most are the hot antique cars and a few of the Porsche Panamera. We also saw the Blues Brothers (replica) police car in the parking lot.

Stealth, I hope your home is enveloped by a volcano, you have proven time, and time again that your insight is generally false. Instead of flaming someone you need to be able to express why you think something over someone else belief.

More designs to come!

Where did you get that number? And OP, if you want to save space and be able to do daily and competition easier, Use aero ports. Get some 6" aeros and you can just switch them out when you go to competition with your car's peak tuning. You won't do as well if your peak no where near your daily tune.

no dont listen to him. if your going for daily with a little more output, you could go 35-38hz with 15-17 per and you should be fine. that should give you a good star off point. then you can redo the box to your liking. also you should figure out what freq your car likes, or simply do 2 boxes. 1 daily, 1 comp.

I've tried to explain everything about my truck. You are correct. Installation is 50% and equipment is 50%. That myth about rear speakers is something like you said in another post about 12s not sounding better than 15s, or 6 1/2s can't be made to sound better than 8s. Anything is possible sir if the installation is correct. Installation and Equipment can not work without the other. The guys that helped me are proven to be the best in the competition world. Mulitple time world champions. They know what it takes to win. We've proven that. Impious made alot of sence in his post and I very much thanked him for that. That man knows his shit !!! Alot of people want good sound. ALOT of people want to be the best in car audio. When you pull up into a parking lot, you want to have the baddest ass system there !!! I only give suggestions that I use myself to be the best in my game. They are teaching me what it takes to win. Compared to amps today, Linear Power is not expensive. Just very good electronics and have a VERY long use life. As for BluesCarAudio, well, the car audio world is in for a shock.

Wow M5, I wouldn't have an attitude if you would quit talking negative all the time. I do have a few questions for you though, Do you compete? Have you ever been to a World Finals event?? Have you ever been on stage with some of the best competitors in the world? Do you know what its like for your "under $4000.00" systen actually beat some of the best competitors in the business? Has a person on your team set a World Record number in spl competition? Can your system play notes under 25 htz? I can answer yes to all of these questions. Can you?

Please keep in mind M5 that I am a competitor this year (truck broke or not). If I give off all my secrets to this truck. I might get my butt handed to me in competition. I would like to win a few more times. According to my scoresheet from last years world finals, My front stage was spot on the way it should be. That part will not be changed. I'm just trying to score better points on installation. My whole concept to this truck is to be very competitive with NO processors and minimal sound dampining. It feels very good to beat out those EXPENSIVE systems.

Not a problem, switch the initials around (JC).

nothing fancy

From the pictures they appear to be aimed fairly off axis to the listeners, which is not uncommon as this allows the listening axis of both seats to be closer to equally off axis to both speakers which in turn helps the frequency response have less deviation between the L & R speakers at the listening position. If you look at pictures of some of the big name competitors, their mids are hardly ever aimed at the listener. They are usually aimed far off axis, many times aimed straight across the vehicle at each other. Vertical (height) ques generally begin to occur when the wavelength of the soundwave is equal to the height of your ear. Generally this will be in the 3khz - 4khz range......But if ya got big honkin' ears you may start to recognize height ques at a much lower frequency The potential problem with separating the mid from the tweeter by a great distance (a distance greater than the wavelength of the crossover frequency) is coherence and frequency response at and near the crossover point. It can be overcome, but something that needs considered. In midbass frequencies the wavelength of the sound wave is typically longer than the diameter of the cone (for the speaker sizes we typically use in car audio) so the on- and off-axis response of the driver is not going to deviate from each other. But as frequency increases and the wavelength becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone (as may happen in the midrange frequencies) the soundwaves generated by the cone will begin to destructively interfere with each other and the off-axis begin to roll off and deviate from the on axis response. Think of the speaker as an array of tiny point sources. When the wavelength of the soundwave is less than the distance between the sources, they can destructively interfere. Where this problem occurs for a driver playing midrange depends on the diameter of the driver. The effect is referred to as "beaming". This is one of the reasons I mentioned above that many competitors intentionally aim speakers off axis to both listeners. If you aim a speaker on axis to one listener, it will inherently be off axis to the other listener. Since in the midrange frequencies beaming usually begins to occur, the on and off axis response is going be different. One thing you generally want in a good stereo setup is for the frequency response at the listening position to be the same from both the left and right speakers. And if you want a stereo to sound equally as good from both the driver and passenger seats, then the frequency response at both seats also needs to be the same. So if you aim the speakers on axis to the driver, the passenger will be off axis and hence the frequency response will likely be different. If you aim the speakers at some arbitrary point between the two seats, then you will be more off axis to the near side speaker than you will be the opposing speaker which will create a difference in frequency response between the left and right speakers. But if you aim them close to equally off axis to both listeners, then the response at both listening positions and from both speakers will be closer to the same. Some competitors start by aiming the speakers either at the opposing speaker or at the back of the headunit, then make their adjustments from there. I tried to help. Sorry, I didn't read this paragraph before asking about the crossover

Subwoofer Wiring It is spelled "they're or they are" ...

Go to www.the12volt.com and click on the subwoofer wiring diagram if you want to play with ohm loads of different voice coil Yes you can:

Yeah

Just set it with a DMM @ 34.64 volts to keep it at 600 watts, dont try to push the amp harder than it can be pushed and you should be fine until you get another amp if need be. I had 600-800 watts on 3 -12" Kicker CVX's (2250 rms total) and it did fine and sounded great.

This is great advise. Since I rebuilt the box, lots of things changed. I can really drive the subs now. My elecrical system is being upgraded with the addition of a second Iraggi 260Amp Alt. The big 3 has been done since the beginning. After the second alt addition, I am adding two more Batcap 4000's that I have. I guess I'll let the voltage tell me what I can do because placing a 3rd alt in an E-350 v-8 PSD van is almost impossible. there simply is no room.. Thanks, JR

Yup, That will teach me to skim on the rest of the system. Big difference. Am thinking of adding another amp and adding two more mids and highs tomorrow. Hope to fine tune it. This stuff is in an E-350 Van so I have a big area to fill.

I admitted that just so you would Please get out of my build log. You havent give me any suggestions. just bla,bla,bla. If you think you are better than me ... That challenge is still open.

Please take a look at my build log. Your truck should be close to mine. I use A-pillars and kick pannels. I think you would be pleased with the set up I use. Ceck it out and let me know what you think. This setup in proven for Sound Quality. You can tell by the win status on my signature. ...

Making that recommendation doesn't tell him the exact minimum amount of port area needed to avoid port noise. so you are telling me that he will have port noise with 15-17 per and it will be audible???? are you a dumbass, or just a dumbass. my recommendation is not telling him the minimum amount or port area needed without port noise, its giving him a proper starting point for a daily system with lots of output. While it will reduce port noise your recommendation will make mechanical failure more likely. My estimation gives the OP the minimum amount of port area needed to reduce the likelihood of port noise as well as reduce the chances of mechanical failure. You recommending 15-17 proves your stupidity and your lack of understanding of enclosure design. Stop making recommendations as all of them have been proven incorrect. get real dumbass, no one is going to use 29sq inches per for a daily system. what a retard. stop making like you know. and when were my recommendations proven wrong? or are you talking outta your ass.

yeah brandon daily whatever you do, do not listen to durans dumbass

um no i think you build the box then pick the sub... lol no shit.

all in all, brandon daily go with his idea and sue his ass for the cost of the wood you wasted. lol use winisd and see.

no, its not just a port thread. maybe to you. its about helping an SSA member when he needs it.

Sounds great guys ... M5, Our conversation is over sir. Thank you for your time.