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So here is my 2006 RT and started off with this bad boy lol I was not impressed and looked for a REC Nav. Found it! And also the Nav Bezel for $130 at the dealership ( 1CB331ZB-AA NAV Bezel ) GPS Antenna ( 56038630-AA ) Cant forget the TVandNav2Go All Done~ I never got the TVandNav2Go to work because it was wired wrong and it just didnt work with my REC. So I got fed up with everything and sold it all haha. The New Fun Begins! Sundown Audio SAE 1200 RMS and thats rated at 13.1v 2 12 inch fully loaded SSD's from Fi Car Audio. Custom Switches - One to turn on a inverter, the other to power on the modded xbox with 1000's of games, movies, and music. Box being Built! All done for now!!! I still really need a trunk lid liner and a little bit more deadening but its good for now !!! Custom Bass Knob!

when should we be recieving a real tracking number for the btl n15 just asking ive been waiting for ever it seems like Guys, stop getting impatient. It was pretty clear they wouldn't start building them until Nov 22nd and they unfortunately ran into machining problems. Nick just told me that they should be shipping out by the end of the week. edit** and your number is real, they just gave it to you ahead of time. not trying to seem impatient or anything just like to check on progress, i have full faith in the company and im sure they are working around the clock to ship out all the orders, had a few questions to anyone that may have sum good advice for me ordered 2 15" BTL N2's will be ordering 2 more in 2 weeks. im building a wall in my 2001 monte carlo ss, i compete in MECA in ky but im just now getting serious i have pretty much all of my equipment picked out here is a short list avh-p5200bt-head unit 4 btl n2's 15" dual 2/ universal mechman 270amp alt (thanks Matt) xs power 14v (4 of them) o wire all around (still need mids) I have the perfect person helping me build the wall, so here is my question im looking at a few diff amps here are my choices either 2 sundown saz4500 or 4 sundown saz2500(my number one pick) or audioque (which im not that familiar with) 2 aq3500, or 4 aq2200 i can also get a kicker warhorse for cheap but i was told it wouldent be my best choice this is my daily driver so i play music more than anything but i compete at least once every 2 months not sure which meca class this will put me into but im assuming either mod 3 or mod 4 im new to this forum and really need sum good info bc i will be buying everything else in the next 2 weeks, Thanks to everyone and sorry if this is off the topic of the n2 update, also does anyone have any videos of the N2? i know a few are already out there and would love to see them,already seen the n1 on youtube, i will be posting pics and video of all the unboxing and the progress of the wall build on here,again thanks everyone you should def start a different thread so people can see your post and help ... otherwise it might get overlooked here...

Now light that bish up! LOL

While I can't say whether or not a single comp set will "keep up" to your level, I've always kind of thought the way SPL guys go about it is a bit idiotic. HLCD + large midbass would be the way to go, IMO. Much more simplistic setup, and one that actually possesses the acoustic capabilities of maintaining good, accurate sound at the same time. Imagine the possibilities of an SPL vehicle that actually imaged well and sounded good from 80hz and up! (when you weren't playing the system at 150db, as nothing will sound "good" at that output level) For one, HLCD are capable of getting loud enough to literally deafen you. Literally, deafen you. If you think 150db of subbass is loud, consider what ~130db of midrange would sound like (if you don't know the difference in your hearing's sensitivity between subbass and midrange, look up the Equal Loudness Curve). And you'd only need ~50wpc to do it. So from about 800hz and up (for a non-minibodied horn), you won't have to worry about being "drowned out" as the HLCD should cause you physical pain long before you had any problems from the subwoofers. Now let's look at the midwoofer. You currently have a trio of 6.5" drivers. The average 6.5" driver is going to have an Sd of around 135cm^2 from what I've seen. If we replaced the trio of 6.5's with a single 10" midbass (Sd ~345cm^2 for the 10" drivers without large subwoofer-type surrounds), you'd only lose about 15% in cone area, which for a given excursion level is a difference of only 1.4db......or just barely in the realm of noticeable audibility. There are some other things to consider, like the possibility of the 10" midbass having a larger Xmax increasing output potential in the midbass region and the possibility of lower power compression, etc. But if we just keep everything equal for the sake of discussion, the realistic difference between a single 10" midbass and a trio of 6.5" drivers is going to be almost negligible. Chances are pretty good that at the output levels you're describing, you won't notice a difference. So there you have it. A pretty simple 4 speaker system that would be more than adequate for your output needs and actually be able to retain some semblance of good sound at lower SPL levels with the right driver selection. No, I've not built a 150db setup because SPL just doesn't interest me all that much. And no, I don't any pictures or videos to show you because for whatever reason most SPL guys don't pursue this route (my guess would be first, it's not as impressive to open a door and see 2 speakers instead of 16 [since horns aren't very visible] and two, it's a simple case of "monkey see monkey do"). But that doesn't negate anything I've said in my post. Pictures might comfort you more than numbers, but the numbers aren't wrong just because they aren't accompanied by pretty pictures. If you have a way of disputing the numbers, I'd be much more interested in that than seeing pictures. Oh.....I do kinda have one example. RC's GN had old school horns under the dash, 12" mids in the rear quarters and a pair of 15" subs at the rear seats....it is said to have been able to do over 135db full range, which is completely different than 135db in the subbass region. A true, consistent 130db in the midrange would get very painful very quickly, and much exposure would leave you with permanent hearing damage.

No see, this is where you aren't understanding how this works. You take a BTL and give it 1 watt, it will be louder than any other FI sub with 1 watt. The BTL has the highest RMS rating, but requires the least amount of power for comparable output.... But this is a dead horse at this point, some people get this, others will "Give it it's RMS".....

Which series 18's are you running? DR's? What amps?

No one can tell you that you didn't hear a difference. But we can tell you that you didn't hear a difference for the reasons you probably think you did. Differences in gain setting and structure, crossover points, and a dozen other variables will all cause an audible change in sound. That doesn't mean you heard a difference because of a ~300w change in power.

ssa is having one

You enjoy sticking to the man, I'm gonna get good deals on stuffs.

nice