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Found 6 results

  1. Thomas Iturraran

    SSD 10 SQ enclosure help

    Vehicle : 1973 VW Beetle Location in the vehicle: Rear cargo area; sub pointed up Space available (Length x Width x Height): 35" length x 12" depth x 12-15" height Subwoofer make and model: Fi SSD Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Rectangle w/ 45's What type of music do you like?: EDM, RAP, Rock, Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday high sq Tuning Freq (Hz): 35 - 38hz? Volume : 1 - 1.5? Questions: So I have modeled up a few different enclosure in win isd but I just want some confirmation as to what you guys think will work best for my listening needs. From what I have read on this forum that I believe Fi recommends a tuning between 31-35hz and 1.5 cu ft. Modeled the box up they suggest and some of the numbers in win isd don't seem to comply with recommendations I find online, for ex. port velocity seems way too high ~ 130ft/s and output seems to lack around the 40-50hz region. From what I understand it seems as though when designing a box in a small vehicle such as my VW you can go a little bit higher due to cabin gain if I understand correctly. After modeling it seems as though 1-1.25 cu ft and a tuning of 38hz seems to produce a nice curve that also had minimal group delay and won't produce a ridiculous peak in output. My question is are there any other suggestion as to maybe more box volume or less and will there be any unforeseen issues with tuning to 38hz instead of 35? Also can someone give me any insight on how tuning affects subs ability to play in the 60-100 hz region? If I understand correctly tuning lower limits the sub woofers ability to play the higher notes?
  2. Jacob Eshack

    E-12 d2 as home theater sub ideas

    Hey guys, I have e12 d2 I got a while back from Jacobs yard sale, I was thinking it would make a decent home theater sub, Just want some ideas on tuning/aero port/ down firing?/ If anyone can help out Id appreciate
  3. I have heard that the cooling option does slighter alters the speakers specs but would the difference down low be negligible in a ported enclosure?
  4. Hello world. Well, here's my Civic build. It's a simple SQ setup. Front stage: 2way DLS UR6i Sub: mac Audio Aliante 10" Black LTD Front amp: Helix H400 Esprit Sub amp: Steg QM 220.2 Stock HU as signal source and re-used Pioneer P88RS as signal processor. (HU>LOC>P88 aux in) It's an unusual configuration, works for now, but I'm really thinking about an Audison Bit Ten. Doors were deadened with SilentCoat, but I still have some work to do on them. Cables are AWG4, and hand"crafed" RCAs. Here's the car - or egg-shaped rocket ship, as some may call it: Old picture of the dash, pre-install (the same, but OEM tweeters): Overall requirements of the install were: 1. Keep everything fully functional, including AC/Radio Display and steering wheel controls. 2. Do not waste space and do not remove spare wheel (we've got potholes in the land of Dracula) 3. "Removability" - I don't want to sell everything when I sell the car, nor I want to buy un-modified interior parts to make it stock-looking. 4. Good SQ, I'm not at all after bigbase or anything SPL-related. As fun as it may be, it's not for me. So... First, I made an amp rack. Simple particle board. It just fits 2 amps, distro blocks and a small relay board. Techflex on most of the cables. And MOLEX connectors for the speakers(1 for midbass, 1 for tweeters). After connecting everything I thought it would have been better to use the connectors for left/right pairs. On my to-do list. I passed the speaker cables through copper tubes, just for the fun of it... Mounted on the left side of the trunk (and yeah, I know the Steg is sticking out): And now, the big mid-bass that goes in the trunk: Now, the fiberglass subwoofer enclosure. This was my first attempt at building one, so I messed up a few times, but quite satisfied of the final result. Enclosure is sealed, but I made it easily vent-able... The round thingey is actually a plug for the port hole. Just need to make another round thingey with a port. Finally: A crappy picture. Well, that's most of it. Still have to work on the doors and some prettyfication. And better photos.
  5. Was up, Ive been here a bunch of times and just now am I starting to post, This forum has changed and I like it, vs when I originally signed up..I mainly hung out on the OG PG Phorum, DIYaudo,Diyma,sd etc under the same user name of Freshkryp69, Ive sold tons of amps on ebay but haven't in awhile (sick of paypals shit).. I Had another kid in 07 my beautiful daughter and I put everything on the back burner audio wise, but kept most of my equipment for that one day, now my kids are 19 & 6 in school full time so now I have time to play again! In my noob days I thought I was the shit for figuring out that the $15 roll of asphalt based Peel-n-Seal worked great for sound deadener , or so I thought at the time! Untill the 3 layers on my roof made the headliner sag from FL heat hitting the roof, and coming unstuck from everywhere I stuck it. The dam price of Deadener has "sky rocketed" for no apparent reason since my last install. I bought 200sqft of "Fat Mat" for $200 shipped from ebay. Now for anything decent its $175-200 for 100sqft and you'd be lucky if it's really 80mils! WTF gives? The usual, "it's selling like hot cakes so charge more"..? Only a few advancements have been made in sound deadening and that's due to material used. What I had back then is the same shit as they have today, aluminum/butyl, anything with reasonable cost is made from the same materials. Just twice the cost now.. Up until 07 I had a slammed 98 Dodge Avenger v6, I had +200sqft of deadener installed, from top to bottom,front to back.. dash out and everything. The doors had up to 7 layers total of deadener, to achieve that sweet thud when being shut and NO rattles, (inside of outer panel x 2 layers, inside and outside of inner door panel, all 3 places it should be on a door), double up everywhere else. Yea I know I went over board, but that was the point! Made a Huge difference, I need that much coverage to get those results, it changed the whole car, the experience driving it, a lot less road noise, which needed to be realized to justify all the sq amps,equip etc I was buying. I have 2 ID-Max 12's but wanted more output. Then I made the a decision that completely defeated My SQ goals by buying in 06 a RE XXX D2 12", I had a enclosure made, 2.8cf @ 30hz and 2 usa-2000's (green boards) 1 on each coil, It was pucking nuts! And completely over powered my 2 way PRS comp's and imaging tweets I had up front, all being amp'd by 3 Orion Nt200's. The point is, nothing rattled except my sunroof, which broke the tracks and fapped like no tomorrow.. Now I have a 03 Silverado etx cab will a fiberglass bed cover, one of the nice one's that lift up in the back with the help of gas cylinders painted the same color as my truck. And now I'm set out to do a "Blow Thru" 4th order, it's the only way I can do anything and keep the rear seat is to use the entire bed for equipment with a blow thru setup. And now I'm back to the first thing that needs to be done, deadening again, and I'm just not seeing the justification for 2 x the cost for the same product. Anyone know where to get 200sf for $200? Later Brad
  6. I'm thinking about a PRS-80 to replace my Kenwood KDC 896. Its a very good quality deck, but there's not many audio adjustments and the interface is hard to use while driving. Would the PRS-80 be a considerable upgrade from a SQ and ease of use standpoint? . If anyone has a better suggestion for a head unit or maybe an alternative (Sound processors) please let me know. Price cap for head unit - $350 My vehicle and setup 1999 Dodge Dakota SLT EXT cab V-6 Head unit - Kenwood KDC 896 Front- Alpine Type R 6.5" componentsRear - Pioneer TSD 6.5" coaxialsSpeaker amp - Alpine PDX - 5 @ 100 rms *4 VerifiedSubwoofer amp - JL JX 1000/1Subwoofer - SA-12 in 1 cu sealed/Ported box ELECTRICAL 136 amp alt750 CCA Class 27 BatteryLanzar 6 farad capacitor (LOL)4 Guage big 3All amp power wire 4 Guage