low voltage?

[mjmarovi 8]

Alright, i'm running a fosgate p450.4 bridged on a set of polk db comps, and a fosgate p1000-1bd (1230 at 1 ohm out of the box). My alty went out shortly before I put in the new system, so I upgrade to a 130 amp alternator, if i had more money at the time would have went larger. I also got an optima yellow-top. My lights are dimming like mad, and the sub is running a little warm, it's a 15" Q with bp power so i know i'm not over-driving it. i'm guessing lucky to get 900 watts to it after voltage loss. I know i need to upgrade and should add a second battery so here's the real question...

It was my thought that optima yellow-top's were basically the best battery out there, but it seems not too many people tun them in the car audio world, is it price? (if so i don't really care i just want the best, i can always wait and save.)

also, i am going to switch from the one p450.4 to two t400-4's on a total of 4 sets of speakers, do you think an alty upgrade will be needed? if so what would you recommend and who would you recommend putting in the extra alty.

I hope i posted all the info needed i hope you all running high wattage systems can give me your best recommendations from experience.

Thanks in advance

Matt

[buickid 0]

This is probably in the wrong section, it should be in general car audio, but I'm sure someone will move it.

Ok, so the Optimas are good batteries, but Kinetics (http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp) or Powermasters (http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/xs_power.html) are built for car audio and other really demanding applications.

Then, you've got the alternator, you've got the battery, but do you have the cables? Research and do the "Big 3" modification, and make sure you're running big cables from the battery to the amp. Perhaps even put another battery in the trunk with the amps. Big fat cables will ensure that you can get the most out of that yellow top and 130A alt. It should reduce dimming too!

-Trevor

[Wakeup 0]

Also since you are DIMMING now with just one 450.4, going two 400.4's would probably be more straining....

Agree with stevesan, double check and make sure the big 3 has been done. I am running a Phoenix gold TI900.7 and an Autotek MM 3000.1, on an xxx RE 2006 12"...and it dimmed my lights but not that bad. Prior to that, I was running the Phoenix Gold TI1200.1 and had hardly any dimming.

Yellow top, and Big 3. Standard crappy Honda Element 2003 alt.

[creatormass 1]

Definitely sounds like you need to upgrade the Big 3 wires. Also, what kind of alternator did you get? Do the lights dim only when your at idle, or when the rpm's are high too? It's possible your upgraded alt isn't that great. I got a 200 amp alt from Excessive Amperage, I thought it was pretty good. At idle it has a 30 amp output, compared to my stock one that has a 60 amp output. At higher rpm's the one from Excessive does put out 200 amps, compared to my stock 105 amp alt. But when I'm at idle my lights dim with the bass, I ripped it out til next season when I really need it. Using my stock alt does just fine. Probably because I've done the Big 3 upgrade using 0 gauge wire, also with the Yellow top.

Yellow tops are great batteries for street applications, the Kinetiks are even better, but those are best with competitions where you need a high reserve. From what I've heard the Yellow Tops have a faster discharge rate than the Kinetiks. I'm not sure about the Powermaster batteries, nobody anywhere near me uses those.

[mjmarovi 8]

yes, the optima seems to have crazy discharge time, it actually burnt up my stock starter so had to replace that. yes i know about big 3, and am going to do it next paycheck, i just know my problem extends beyond that. i will check into kinetics and powermaster, kinetics is the name i forgot, heard lots of good about them before.

also, for running second battery to trunk, do i need any other hardware? or can i just run 0 gauge from battery in engine compartment to batt in trunk, ground it, or run 0 back to (-) on main batt then just run power wires from amps to the trunk batt. or do i need an isolator or something?

can't remember what kind of alty it is, it is actually a replacement for a stock one on a 98 maxima. see, my 99 infiniti is basically the same car but newer with a few extras, in 98 or 97 or something they used 130 amp alty's, in 99 110 i think is what i had, and now they are down to like 90's. i was thinking about adding like a 200 or 240 iraggi but not sure how much it would cost to get the work done.

[creatormass 1]

also, for running second battery to trunk, do i need any other hardware? or can i just run 0 gauge from battery in engine compartment to batt in trunk, ground it, or run 0 back to (-) on main batt then just run power wires from amps to the trunk batt. or do i need an isolator or something?

can't remember what kind of alty it is, it is actually a replacement for a stock one on a 98 maxima. see, my 99 infiniti is basically the same car but newer with a few extras, in 98 or 97 or something they used 130 amp alty's, in 99 110 i think is what i had, and now they are down to like 90's. i was thinking about adding like a 200 or 240 iraggi but not sure how much it would cost to get the work done.

Kinetik recommends running 0 gauge power AND grounds from the front battery to the rear battery. You should have the 0 gauge Big 3 done before adding the second battery, and the HO Alt is also highly recommended before installing the second battery. Also, you should have a fuse on the power wire right before the battery in the rear. This is in addition to the fuse by the front battery. If you plan on running your system with the car off then you'll need a battery isolator. The only time I run mine off is for comps, so an isolator would be a bad idea.

If you want an Iraggi alt then check out the Ebay site or call them.

Iraggi Alts

or call them at 615-287-7991

[creatormass 1]

For some reason the link doesn't work, so here's the website info.....

http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics

[mjmarovi 8]

awesome thanks man! I think i'm going to go with a second yellow-top, same power as the kinetic 600, and a bit cheaper plus already running one yellow-top. just picked up 0 gauge wire today, so doing the big 3 tomorrow and might do the second battery friday when i get paid.

[creatormass 1]

awesome thanks man! I think i'm going to go with a second yellow-top, same power as the kinetic 600, and a bit cheaper plus already running one yellow-top. just picked up 0 gauge wire today, so doing the big 3 tomorrow and might do the second battery friday when i get paid.

You must be looking in the wrong place for prices on Kinetiks. I paid about 189.00 plus shipping for my yellow top, and the Kinetic 600 runs around 75.00 plus shipping. I was able to pick up a Kinetik 2400 for just over 220.00, thats almost 3 times more power storage than the yellow top. Check out some of the Ebay stores and find a Kinetik there, it's better than adding another yellow top.