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06cbrboy

FI Q 18 OR BL IVE SEARCHED BY THE WAY!

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Ok before anyone says it yes i used the search and other forums. I just cant find some of the answers to my questions. Here is everything im workin with. I am tomarrow buying a 00 Nissan Pathfinder, i have all of the cargo area to play with {which is not under 30 cubic ft} just need room for the amp and room for it to have ventilation. My equipment is as follows 1 Kicker zx 1500.1, Kicker 2 way active x-over, 1/0 every where, big three, Audio control overdrive line driver, Kinetic HC 800, and as for a head unit my friend sold my truck for me and i told him not to sell it with the h/u well guess what im in the market for a new h/u nothin more than 300. My dilema is i dont know weather or not to go with q or the bl 18. I want the q for its ability to play low notes and sound good, but am worried cuz im not too sure the q could handle 1500 rms daily for 45 min to an hour total every day (to and from work) with out prematurely dieing on me. I like the Bl ability to take 1500 rms for sure and have good spl. So im lookin at probably 8 cubes tuned in the neighborhood of 31-32 hz. In your guys experience with these subs what should i do???? ive been doing research for close to 3 months and just cant decide what to go with any help is greatly appriciated, ohh by the way any suggestions on a h/u alpine , eclipse, clarion. And also does anyone know how many volts a kicker amp can handle?

Thanks again guys i appriciate ti :faintthud:

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i know u guys get tired of this question but im throwin out specifics, jut lookin for somthin to go off of cuz im probably gonna order em as soon as i pic up my pathy so answers and opions would be aswsome

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yes yes yes yes

Well you get the point obviously the specs change for every woofer. I have a BTL, have had a Q and have Havocs also. Plenty of SPL out of all. The Q would last all day if you didn't go to work and had a Ferris Bueller's day off. All of them are underated but of course if you have a little more in your amp than the suggested rms for a sub then you are more in control of the sub w/ correct gains settings plus you never have to wonder if your amp is enough.

Personally I will end up with the SSD w/ copper coils or the Havoc's. Depends on my amp settup. My 3000 watts now is good for 4 SSDs. If I get another one than a I personally do NOT like. Think about it.........If they made a sub that takes 1,000,000 watts how good could it sound? Yet it would definately have alot of BANG to it.

Don't read to deep into it. All the Fi/AA lineup has some serious SPL. Some bang a lil more while some are a lil smoother. I love loud low clean bass and that is why I will end up w. the Havocs or SSDs.

Where are you located?

Are you in FLA?

Will you be in Daytona next weekend for the SBNs?

Later Bro Joey

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Thank u and once again sorry for the repeditive q's, no im in indiana :lazy: sucks and no not going to sbn. So the q on 1500 rms in a huge box tuned low will hang in just as long as a bl {as long as it done right} what kind of wattage did u have running to your Q?

Thanks again joey i really do appriciate it, iknow it sucks reading the same type of questions time and time again i just dont want to make a 400 dollar mistake and wish i had what i dont have!

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Thank u and once again sorry for the repeditive q's, no im in indiana :lazy: sucks and no not going to sbn. So the q on 1500 rms in a huge box tuned low will hang in just as long as a bl {as long as it done right} what kind of wattage did u have running to your Q?

Thanks again joey i really do appriciate it, iknow it sucks reading the same type of questions time and time again i just dont want to make a 400 dollar mistake and wish i had what i dont have!

3000+ on two

Indiana isn't so bad - Check out your boy!!

IndyCarbDay056.jpg

****'s me Gasoline alley 07

Indy500RaceDay042.jpg

Danica's car

Indy500RaceDay032.jpg

Me and Kelly w/ Mario Andretti

Indy500RaceDay078.jpg

Some Quarterback for some football team hehe. My GF likes this one cuz he's touching her hand!...........................lol

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If you buy the FI Q you will be making a $400 mistake that u will regret. You want to go with the BL or the BTL. Im not just running my mouth, im speaking from experience.

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What happened to the Q that you speak about? I pound on my 18Q 1 hour strait twice a day without problems.

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If you buy the FI Q you will be making a $400 mistake that u will regret. You want to go with the BL or the BTL. Im not just running my mouth, im speaking from experience.

400 dollar mistake? Explain more please

The "Q" jams SQ and SPL @ the same time .... One hellofa wuufer

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All of them are underated but of course if you have a little more in your amp than the suggested rms for a sub then you are more in control of the sub w/ correct gains settings plus you never have to wonder if your amp is enough.

More in control? Not really...

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Im not putting down the Q by any means. Ive got 2 Q15s w/BP powered by 2 MTX 81001s (1500 watts each) and its too much for them. The problem i ran into is overexcursion and for me they didnt get as loud as i wanted them to. They do hit lower than most speakers ive heard but they lack on the higher notes. Why not get the full potential out of your amp and get the BL or the BTL. If you do get the Q ask if they will make it with a stiffer spider to keep it from bottoming out.

Edited by keith77

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I dont understand why people are interested in higher frequencies for subs. The whole point of having them installed is to reinforce the bottom most octave. I could care less if my sub played higher, actually I would'nt like it but thats me. That is what my ''Q'' brings to the table, all the lows and nothing far over 50hz which doesn't bother me any. If my subs do go higher I filter them out by crossing over @ a lower frequency anyway. What I'm saying is, if you want higher frequency bass say 60hz- 100hz invest in some mid-bass woofers.

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All of them are underated but of course if you have a little more in your amp than the suggested rms for a sub then you are more in control of the sub w/ correct gains settings plus you never have to wonder if your amp is enough.

More in control? Not really...

Jim never expected that from you!

I've been in car audio for 20 years and it's a rule of thumb I've always understood.

If I am wrong please explain thoroughly so that I may understand completely.

The car that ruled undefeated throughout the late 80s to early 90s was Richard Clark's Buick Grand National. Richard's car was settup for SQ and scored perfect on the RTA nearly everytime. He ran only 6 speakers total though and compared to what is used today about the only thing similar from his system to current top dog big boys of SQ, (Gary Biggs of JBL and Eddie DeJesus w/ DLS, is the fact that they are in complete "control" of their speakers by havin' amps that are rated higher then the RMS of each driver.

Going back to Richard Clark, the only undefeated vehicle in car audio history of all cars competing more than one year. Mr. Clark's system ran 5000 watts t only 6 speakers. 2 15" for the subsonic frequencies, 2 12" for mid bass drivers, and the first set of USD Waveguides used in a vehicle. Remember this is back in the '80s, so I don't know what speakers in those days could have possibly handled that wattage? From what I understand Richard Clark's theory, or perhaps something he picked-up from Speakerworks of California (orginal owners of the winningest vehicle in IASCA history), was to be in complete control of each driver by having more than the RMS rated by their respective companies. Being able to adjust the gaines properly, these competitors for one never had to wonder, "What if I had a bigger,better, more powerful amp on that particular speaker." Also, having an amp with more power than a rated speaker woud help to create highly desired "headroom" and thus increasing the sound quality as well as the personal enjoyment for the vehicle owner and enthusiests alike.

Really I could go on, but it is 3am in FLA and I have one more day of work til I head off to SBN's. If what I have always understood is in anyway wrong, I would definately like to be informed for my own learning, knowledge, and future understanding.

Goodnight everyone. Daytona is upon us. Thank goodness it only takes 45 minuets to get there for me....hehe

Joey aka Joe, Joseph, Joe Rod, J2Z, Ronrico, 418Fis, and Bass King.

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I dont understand why people are interested in higher frequencies for subs. The whole point of having them installed is to reinforce the bottom most octave. I could care less if my sub played higher, actually I would'nt like it but thats me. That is what my ''Q'' brings to the table, all the lows and nothing far over 50hz which doesn't bother me any. If my subs do go higher I filter them out by crossing over @ a lower frequency anyway. What I'm saying is, if you want higher frequency bass say 60hz- 100hz invest in some mid-bass woofers.

I could care less about mid bass also. i do like a sub that can get loud at both 30hz and 60hz, wich is what ive seen from the BTL. Most music doesnt get recorded at 20 - 30hz unless its chopped and screwed, and thats where the Qs shine the most.

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alright guys i think ill still probably go with the q if everyone is saying it will handle it. I like loud woofers but if it sounds good and gets a little loud im ok with that. if its not enough for me ill sell it and ge a BL.

Thanks

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alright guys i think ill still probably go with the q if everyone is saying it will handle it. I like loud woofers but if it sounds good and gets a little loud im ok with that. if its not enough for me ill sell it and ge a BL.

Thanks

The Q is more sub than most people ever dream of or will own - and that goes for people on SSA too. The Q (Havoc) outperforms the BTL by lightyears (Not really an opinion it just does)

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Going back to Richard Clark, the only undefeated vehicle in car audio history of all cars competing more than one year. Mr. Clark's system ran 5000 watts t only 6 speakers. 2 15" for the subsonic frequencies, 2 12" for mid bass drivers, and the first set of USD Waveguides used in a vehicle. Remember this is back in the '80s, so I don't know what speakers in those days could have possibly handled that wattage? From what I understand Richard Clark's theory, or perhaps something he picked-up from Speakerworks of California (orginal owners of the winningest vehicle in IASCA history), was to be in complete control of each driver by having more than the RMS rated by their respective companies. Being able to adjust the gaines properly, these competitors for one never had to wonder, "What if I had a bigger,better, more powerful amp on that particular speaker." Also, having an amp with more power than a rated speaker woud help to create highly desired "headroom" and thus increasing the sound quality as well as the personal enjoyment for the vehicle owner and enthusiests alike.
There's one whole part of that that's glaringly obvious, and has nothing to do with power - high efficiency ;)

12" midbasses and USD horns are extremely efficient, and can make do with very little in amplifier power to get earsplitting volume - adding more power simply provides even more headroom.

I used to have a pair of Klipsch floorstanders that were "rated" for 100W, I sent them 8 watts per channel...and I can tell you they were nowhere near clipping. In the triode world power levels of 3 watts or less are common, and there are people that have some serious unclipped output - the key is very high efficiencies :)

That's why I cringe when I hear the "more power is better" thing...because often times improving the efficiency of the entire system is more effective :)

The Q (Havoc) outperforms the BTL by lightyears (Not really an opinion it just does)

Well, that does depend on the application ;)

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Going back to Richard Clark, the only undefeated vehicle in car audio history of all cars competing more than one year. Mr. Clark's system ran 5000 watts t only 6 speakers. 2 15" for the subsonic frequencies, 2 12" for mid bass drivers, and the first set of USD Waveguides used in a vehicle. Remember this is back in the '80s, so I don't know what speakers in those days could have possibly handled that wattage? From what I understand Richard Clark's theory, or perhaps something he picked-up from Speakerworks of California (orginal owners of the winningest vehicle in IASCA history), was to be in complete control of each driver by having more than the RMS rated by their respective companies. Being able to adjust the gaines properly, these competitors for one never had to wonder, "What if I had a bigger,better, more powerful amp on that particular speaker." Also, having an amp with more power than a rated speaker woud help to create highly desired "headroom" and thus increasing the sound quality as well as the personal enjoyment for the vehicle owner and enthusiests alike.
There's one whole part of that that's glaringly obvious, and has nothing to do with power - high efficiency ;)

12" midbasses and USD horns are extremely efficient, and can make do with very little in amplifier power to get earsplitting volume - adding more power simply provides even more headroom.

I used to have a pair of Klipsch floorstanders that were "rated" for 100W, I sent them 8 watts per channel...and I can tell you they were nowhere near clipping. In the triode world power levels of 3 watts or less are common, and there are people that have some serious unclipped output - the key is very high efficiencies :)

That's why I cringe when I hear the "more power is better" thing...because often times improving the efficiency of the entire system is more effective :)

The Q (Havoc) outperforms the BTL by lightyears (Not really an opinion it just does)
Well, that does depend on the application ;)

\SQPL is the name of the game and SSD Chaos Havoc or Q wins everytime period. What will have most output for a single sub and only one will fit in my car and I want it to be as loud as possible BTL mayhem will take it.

R\

Waited along time for that? get serious

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