i think i have a bad cell

[jonbearsmt 919]

thay are all draining the same..... and isolators melt when you pull 300 amps thru them.

[Big E 4]

i'm not tryin to dog ya but a VERY respectable person at Powermaster told me to always isolate the front from the rear with either isolators or solenoids as long as they were isolated. Of course he chose solenoids since they have no detectable voltage drop.

IF all batts were installed at same time AND are of the same brand and line, then yes, it may not be necessary but different brand, different technology, needs to be isolated because they slowly start to drain each other.

How slowly? I don't know but they will eventually kill each other off but the time it takes is unknown.

Aren't you the one with 5 solenoids in your car? I'd take everything this guy says with a huge grain of salt.

[jonbearsmt 919]

i'm not tryin to dog ya but a VERY respectable person at Powermaster told me to always isolate the front from the rear with either isolators or solenoids as long as they were isolated. Of course he chose solenoids since they have no detectable voltage drop.

IF all batts were installed at same time AND are of the same brand and line, then yes, it may not be necessary but different brand, different technology, needs to be isolated because they slowly start to drain each other.

How slowly? I don't know but they will eventually kill each other off but the time it takes is unknown.

Aren't you the one with 5 solenoids in your car? I'd take everything this guy says with a huge grain of salt.

i know... but he does DO ALOT OF research

[shizzzon 461]

hold up, you guys are getting things confused.

I did research from 3 different companies, Stinger, PAC Audio and Powermaster.

Stinger suggested i'd run 4 isolators in my car.

PAC Audio didn't know for sure so couldnt give me a definite answer.

Powermaster clearly stated to me what i posted to bigjon on my last post.

I run the stock batt up front and 3 powermaster in the back.

You can run over 300A to solenoids, you wire them in parallel.

I only have 2 200A solenoids right now.

They are wired in parallel with each other so they can switch up to 400A of current. I went over this about a thousand times just to make sure that it will and every way i worded the question, it all came back as- if you got more than 200A to switch, gotta wire them in parallel or they will get damaged.

I made a for sale thread a while back for the other 2 200A solenoids because.... i dont need them.

They will always be for sale until sold.

It is true that they do all drain at the same time when the car is on, but the alternator is also charging them all at the same time as well or is supplying power to the audio system, one or the other.

i was told by Powermaster to only put solenoids between every battery in the back only if i were using the batts with the car off. Don't know why because i never asked, i don't play around with the car off so it wasn't my purpose.

I do know that different batts technology and specs will fight with each other. Again, i dont know how long it takes for a full or near full discharge to happen but that's why it's necessary.

[jonbearsmt 919]

hold up, you guys are getting things confused.

I did research from 3 different companies, Stinger, PAC Audio and Powermaster.

Stinger suggested i'd run 4 isolators in my car.

PAC Audio didn't know for sure so couldnt give me a definite answer.

Powermaster clearly stated to me what i posted to bigjon on my last post.

I run the stock batt up front and 3 powermaster in the back.

You can run over 300A to solenoids, you wire them in parallel.

I only have 2 200A solenoids right now.

They are wired in parallel with each other so they can switch up to 400A of current. I went over this about a thousand times just to make sure that it will and every way i worded the question, it all came back as- if you got more than 200A to switch, gotta wire them in parallel or they will get damaged.

I made a for sale thread a while back for the other 2 200A solenoids because.... i dont need them.

They will always be for sale until sold.

It is true that they do all drain at the same time when the car is on, but the alternator is also charging them all at the same time as well or is supplying power to the audio system, one or the other.

i was told by Powermaster to only put solenoids between every battery in the back only if i were using the batts with the car off. Don't know why because i never asked, i don't play around with the car off so it wasn't my purpose.

I do know that different batts technology and specs will fight with each other. Again, i dont know how long it takes for a full or near full discharge to happen but that's why it's necessary.

i said i know that you do alot of research... i said that.......

but you have also been known to buy things from those company because thay told you to... dont take the wrong way..

and when you wire solenoids like you stated... when one goes bad you dont know witch one is faulty.. from what i have read you must replace them alll.. same as with people who have hydro on thair cars.

[chrismcdonald12 0]

So you think your stinger meter is banged? Could very well be that or the wiring to it. Trust a DMM... Much more accurate usually due to its high internal resistance.

[jonbearsmt 919]

So you think your stinger meter is banged? Could very well be that or the wiring to it. Trust a DMM... Much more accurate usually due to its high internal resistance.

i was thinking that.... cause when im wangin my meter flexs you can see the numbers go up and and down postion inside its case....

but then again i have to say all my cells were 40% charged......... so i donno what im gonna do!

i hate to start throwing money at the problem.

has anyone ever seen a long bolt added to a alt,, to that i can stack 0 gauge rings off of the output post.

[Big Shot 0]

Has anyone ever seen a long bolt added to a alt to stack 0 gauge rings off of the output post?

I haven't seen it but i can't imagine why there would be a reason you couldn't...

[fbi90909 0]

odd. lotta people having battery issues lately.

i today noticed my car didn't like it's startup. usualy when my batteries are charged my car starts up nice and quick. when my batteries are low the car strains to start. well today all day i've been noticing my voltage being pure chit. so i take my car to an advanced auto and have my front stock battery checked to find it was bad. so i ended up having to buy a new battery. :/

now i need to recharge my kinetik. i have to say i hate my cars electrical system. pure chit imo. my voltage never stays at 14.v w/o having to run my a/c which then causes me to burn more gas.

[shizzzon 461]

i check and monitor my battery voltage every other day until i buy me a very nice remote volt meter sometime soon.

My battery bank has been consistently reading 13.2v float so they are fine.

[dsgfierce1 0]

odd. lotta people having battery issues lately.

i today noticed my car didn't like it's startup. usualy when my batteries are charged my car starts up nice and quick. when my batteries are low the car strains to start. well today all day i've been noticing my voltage being pure chit. so i take my car to an advanced auto and have my front stock battery checked to find it was bad. so i ended up having to buy a new battery. :/

now i need to recharge my kinetik. i have to say i hate my cars electrical system. pure chit imo. my voltage never stays at 14.v w/o having to run my a/c which then causes me to burn more gas.

not to be off topic but the a/c on making your car burn more gas has actully been proven to be a myth

[fbi90909 0]

odd. lotta people having battery issues lately.

i today noticed my car didn't like it's startup. usualy when my batteries are charged my car starts up nice and quick. when my batteries are low the car strains to start. well today all day i've been noticing my voltage being pure chit. so i take my car to an advanced auto and have my front stock battery checked to find it was bad. so i ended up having to buy a new battery. :/

now i need to recharge my kinetik. i have to say i hate my cars electrical system. pure chit imo. my voltage never stays at 14.v w/o having to run my a/c which then causes me to burn more gas.

not to be off topic but the a/c on making your car burn more gas has actully been proven to be a myth

running the a/c in my car causes strain to my engine and causes me to lose hp. you ever sit at a stop light with your a/c off and just accelerate? the car should pick up quite rapidly. well with my car when i'm sitting at a stop with the a/c on and accelerate the car picks up slower.

with the added weight of a btl, a kinetik 2400, 4 amps. lots of 1/0 wire, soundening, and an mdf box all in the trunk doesn't help much either. my car on the highway still gets great mileage, but in the city it's not too great.

the "myth" they tested was on a track, they just drove laps. they need to take that myth, and try stop and go traffic.

[shizzzon 461]

I have 380lbs of added weight on my scion tc 4 cylinder.

Some people told me I would drop my gas mileage...

I told them, as long as I keep my rpms at the same level as I did before the added weight, which I do, I shouldn't notice a difference...

And what do u know....

I haven't been measurin by numbers but I can still drive round trips to work for 2 full weeks before a fill up.

I notice a little sluggish take off but I keep my rpms no higher than 3k and I get great mileage.

[coobies5 43]

v8 ftw and ftl!

mpg stays the same until about a 700lb load in the bed, and still get 15-17 =P

soon to be selling the truck though, so i can finally enjoy getting 20+ mpg in a v6 = D

[shizzzon 461]

to be honest, i think it's time to start considering purchasing all electric or at least 60mpg+ but only if you are gonna buy new. If you buy used, you're not out as much money.

[jonbearsmt 919]

to be honest, i think it's time to start considering purchasing all electric or at least 60mpg+ but only if you are gonna buy new. If you buy used, you're not out as much money.

thats funny. i have been thinking about getting the biggest SUV ever made

[blue86f150 0]

to be honest, i think it's time to start considering purchasing all electric or at least 60mpg+ but only if you are gonna buy new. If you buy used, you're not out as much money.

thats funny. i have been thinking about getting the biggest SUV ever made

Excursion with mulitiple 18" subs?

[jonbearsmt 919]

to be honest, i think it's time to start considering purchasing all electric or at least 60mpg+ but only if you are gonna buy new. If you buy used, you're not out as much money.

thats funny. i have been thinking about getting the biggest SUV ever made

Excursion with mulitiple 18" subs?

you got it!... i think just 2 18

[chrismcdonald12 0]

Nothing better then a diesel or v10 excursion.... Ford visual sex on wheels.

My Pio deck voltage meter f-d off on me the one day from bumping, a good smack on the dash and it read normal again hahahaha. I think it would be the voltage meter.

[blue86f150 0]

If you do go diesel, you should make ur own fuel.

[jonbearsmt 919]

If you do go diesel, you should make ur own fuel.

yes sir i was thinking about that... and i planed on a diesel because thats what i drive on a daily, and i know im gonna guy a RV as soon as i have somthing to pull it with when im off duty, i know my self.

[blue86f150 0]

why get an RV, just put some tail lights and some wheels and tow your trailer. Instant mobile home . J/p, I will be on the look out for a build log for the truck