DC LVL5 vs Fi BTL

[SexySoundLab 0]

I'm planning to purchase a 3500D I also plan to purchase a new sub for it in the near future. I'd like to hear some opinions on which I should buy a fully loaded Fi BTL 15" or a DC LVL 5 15"

I debated on a Nightshade 15 as well but they are not rated for this much power daily, maybe when the monster is released I'll switch over to a sundown sub.

Thanks

[Basshead 3]

with a lil knowledge you can run that amp to a sundown nightshade. i have one per 18 at .5 ohms in my explorer for daily use

[Basshead 3]

oh and to add, the fi and lvl 5 arent rated for that much power either although they can all take it if the box is built properly and electrical is up to par

[SexySoundLab 0]

Both the Fi and the DC lvl5 are rated for 2000 rms to 4000 max. The Nightshade is I believe 1500 rms 3000 max. Yeah I'm sure your right that the nightshade could work out ok with the gain down but I'm looking to get the most out of the amp so I would perfer something rated a little higher.

[Valhalla 8]

Both the Fi and the DC lvl5 are rated for 2000 rms to 4000 max. The Nightshade is I believe 1500 rms 3000 max. Yeah I'm sure your right that the nightshade could work out ok with the gain down but I'm looking to get the most out of the amp so I would perfer something rated a little higher.

You might want to look into Ascendant Audio, they are a sister company to Fi, check out the Mayhem I use 2 of the 15's and run a SAZ3000d per sub all day long. They have a new Heli cooling design on the motors so that the coils will stay much cooler, Also Chris, that owns MLA Audio, has 6, 15s in his hummer and runs about 3500wrms per sub and he demos a lot. Hope this helps.

Edited July 8, 2009 by Valhalla

[SexySoundLab 0]

Thanks for making my decesion even harder, that Mayhem does look very nice. Do you know how much they go for price wise?

[BKOLFO4 29]

PM me your zip code and I will get you info on AA products.

[Valhalla 8]

PM me your zip code and I will get you info on AA products.

I got mine for 500 a piece shipped. pretty much anywhere you ask they will be right around that. but lol didnt mean to make the decision harder, the Mayhem is pretty much a loaded BTL, just with a more advanced cooling design and higher tolerant coils.

Here is a link to the videos of my Mayhems take a look! http://www.youtube.com/user/Valhalla00Awaits

Edited July 8, 2009 by Valhalla

[SexySoundLab 0]

Nice truck! Yeah I figured they would be around $500. I sent an email to Ascendant Audio for a quote. I think you sold me on them, thanks!

[jcarter1885 995]

good video, nice flex and clean truck. what size box and tuning if ported?

[Valhalla 8]

good video, nice flex and clean truck. what size box and tuning if ported?

Thank you, I am glad that I can help you out on deciding which sub to get. I know that I spent over a year picking out which to buy for myself. You will love them, right out of the box they will hit unbelievably hard but will not have a heavy low end, i put in about 20 hours playtime and then they start slumping the lows, beyond 20 hrs they just break in to a nice medium and the excursion is unreal. lol. I just had a new box built for the truck, in all the vids you watched im using the old box. I had wondered why the subs where only hitting a 151 db @ 48hz so i decided to get a bigger better box. The box in the vids is only 8cf. ported tuned to 45hz mainly spl. front baffle was 3 layers with baltic birch in the center, the reason for the 151 was the fron baffle had seperated from the rest of the box. lol. So I now have a bigger better box, about 12cf. ported, port plug, tunable from 30hz plug in to 50hz plug out. First test run on the term lab a 153 @30hz port plug in. have yet to test at a higher hz with out the plug. #'s soon to come.

[3stagevtec 2]

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=282188

[subw123 11]

I'm planning to purchase a 3500D I also plan to purchase a new sub for it in the near future. I'd like to hear some opinions on which I should buy a fully loaded Fi BTL 15" or a DC LVL 5 15"

I debated on a Nightshade 15 as well but they are not rated for this much power daily, maybe when the monster is released I'll switch over to a sundown sub.

Thanks

dc lv5 deff

[KU40 173]

Both the Fi and the DC lvl5 are rated for 2000 rms to 4000 max. The Nightshade is I believe 1500 rms 3000 max. Yeah I'm sure your right that the nightshade could work out ok with the gain down but I'm looking to get the most out of the amp so I would perfer something rated a little higher.

I realize this thread is 3 weeks old, but um......max ratings mean nothing. Think about it. The sub's RMS is 2000. Shouldn't you match the RMS of the sub with the RMS of the amplifier? Or if you like to look at max ratings, the max rating on that 3500D is probably 7000 watts. How does that compare to the subs' max ratings? Hmm..............

[UpGradde 7]

Both the Fi and the DC lvl5 are rated for 2000 rms to 4000 max. The Nightshade is I believe 1500 rms 3000 max. Yeah I'm sure your right that the nightshade could work out ok with the gain down but I'm looking to get the most out of the amp so I would perfer something rated a little higher.

I realize this thread is 3 weeks old, but um......max ratings mean nothing. Think about it. The sub's RMS is 2000. Shouldn't you match the RMS of the sub with the RMS of the amplifier? Or if you like to look at max ratings, the max rating on that 3500D is probably 7000 watts. How does that compare to the subs' max ratings? Hmm..............

I dont think he means max as in "peak" power but is still referring to rms. Because the fi btl subs can take 4000 rms if put in the right box with the filters set properly. Maybe for a short time but it is possible.

[KU40 173]

No. BTL is 2000 watts RMS. Fi doesn't list max ratings crap. It may be able to take 4000 RMS for a short time, but that's just it. A SHORT time (as in an SPL burp). There's absolutely no reason to put 4000 RMS on it for everyday listening.

It's just a waste of money anyways. It's not going to get noticeably louder from just getting a sundown 2000D.

[nick_19 1]

Max rating = RMS x 2 (usually)

Peak/max doesn't mean anything in the car audio world.

If you are going to be pushing a sub over its RMS rating, you should be knowledgeable to that fact already. I'd just stick with RMS and match the subs and amps to that. Albeit, it is nice to have a little headroom (extra power) on the amplifier side of things to help avoid driving into clipping and/or distortion. Just be responsible with the gains.