Setup Help, got questions that need anwsers

[kross6622 0]

I had a thread open in the general section but I think this would be a better place for my forth coming questions. I have been doing a TON of research and such and I think I got down enough info to do this correctly. I still need some opinions from others with more experience. First off, budget is a concern however I don't have one. The more it costs the longer I am willing to wait to do this correctly. I don't want to take any short cuts.

Currently I have the following...

Rockford Fosgate Power T400-4 (Multi Channel Amp)

Orion 2500d Amp

Coming Soon

Infinity Perfects 6.1 6.5 in components

Infinity Kappa 693.9 (3 way 6x9)

Pioneer F90BT Head Unit ( In dash Navi w/ 4 volt rca preouts)

0/1 Gauge Wiring Kit. (Have some questions here as well)

Alright Now for the questions and the reason for this thread.

First off are setup questions

I plan on doing the Big 3, I know what it is but no clue how to do it. I read online and there are a ton of explanations and such so I think I can do this myself.

I will be running two amps so I will need to run two sets of wires, or can I get one that splits.?

The Orion amp has 2 Power inputs and 2 ground inputs. Whats the best way to set this up. Do I need two different battery's? Could I just get one amazing one and replace the stock and be okay? What kind should I get.

Will I need a HO Alternator. I have an 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix. (*whats my stock alt put out?) I drive daily and don't plan on doing any competitions. Just for daily use.

Second are Sub/Amp setups

The Orion amp is rated for 2500 rms at 1 ohm. and 1700 rms for 2 ohms.

First thing is I think the Fi 12 BTL fully loaded is the best choice in sub. I would get 2 BL but I want to be able to use my trunk if need be. I don't want it completely filled with a box.

What option do you think I should go. Now on the Fi site it says it gets .7 ohms per voice coil so if I select dual 1 wouldn't it really be pushing around 1.4 ohms not 2 ohms. Making the RMS somewhere between 1700 and 2500. My main concern is I do not want to blow the sub. The sub is rated for 2000 rms so I think this would be the perfect setup. Not to much not to little. Would getting dual 2 ohm be better since I would be pushing more power? What would be the sound difference. If its just slightly louder with the dual 2 setup for 1 ohm (.7?) but less quality then I want dual 1.

Third Sound Deadening?

I read all over that this helps and doesn't help. Its a waste of money, get this one not that one. I read one site that says to cover the center 25% then use this and this, etc.

Basically I want it so the trunk doesn't rattle apart and doesn't sound like trash. I know that most sound deading claims its increases the performance of the subs, etc. Which I am sure its true, but how much. Whats the best thing I can do. I can deal with road noise. I don't want to do my whole car. I saw that dynomat had one thing for the speaker area in the doors. I am thinking about getting that. Also a trunk kit. and license plate kit. My last car was a 01 passat and I had nothing and it rattled. It was only a Rockford punch 300-1 amp nothing crazy like this. I didn't like the rattle at all, made it sound cheap. I don't want people looking and saying he has this loud system but couldn't afford to make the trunk stop rattling.

Sorry for the long post but this has 90% of my questions that need answers. As far as boxes go, that will be my last concern. Right now my budget is relatively tight. My goal is to do it little by little. For example. I would like to do this pat all at once. Get headunit, get it professionally installed *(its the navi and requires all the park and reverse things to be hooked up etc), install door speakers, upgrade door speaker wire. Run power wire from battery to back and setup my multichannel amp. Basically having the 4 speakers headunit and amp all installed. Then I would work on the Big 3, upgrading the battery, adding a second one, and sound deading if needed. And finally getting the Sub itself and making the box.

The door speakers I will be getting for dirt cheap as a good friend of mine works for Harman and will get me them at his cost. Head Unit I can get for 600 new and 125 installed. I can do the door speakers myselt.

Right now I have 540 (modest) worth of car audio equipment I am selling.

Do you think my phases are a good idea? Pro's cons? Myself I don't want just bass, I want to hear the whole music. But I looooveeeee bass.

Any comments are good one's. I need all the help I can get. Also I am very good at webhosting (Had my own company and sold it to pay for college and this so if anyone needs help setting up a website etc. I can do it for you. I know its random but if I can help someone that helped me I will not feel as special.

Edited July 28, 2009 by kross6622

[BKOLFO4 29]

0.7 and 1.4 are the DC resistance ratings of the coil.

The impedance is 1 or 2 ohms. If you want to run the amp at 1 ohm, buy a dual 2 sub and run the coils in parallel. If you want to run it at 2 ohms, buy a dual 1 ohm and run the coils in series.

BTL's will have no problem with that amp at 1 ohm. . .

Brian

[playmysong 2]

If you ever choose to go with sound deadening, go with Second Skin. dynamat sucks, i wont even capitalize it

[Mac N Cheese 90]

If you ever choose to go with sound deadening, go with Second Skin.

x2

[Duran 387]

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

[Kanaworm$ 292]

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

x2

Don has done the research and all the hard work.

[kross6622 0]

Thanks for the idea on deading. Regarding D1 or D2, how much loss would I see if I set it up for 2 ohms rather then 1 ohm? Is it significant? Whats the difference.

[BKOLFO4 29]

There are a few factors that can affect the output from 2 ohms to 1 ohm. . .I would say worst case around 1 dB, best case is 3 dB.

It will be a noticable difference. . .

Brian

[kross6622 0]

If favor for which setup? If I go for dual 2 and wire it to 1 ohm, I would gain at least 1db up to 3?

Second what level do you think I will reach with this setup in a 07 grand prix. (I know many factors but a guess would be sweet. Also where could I get a db meter that reads over 135. I have looked online and they all cost like 250. Isnt there something under a hundred?

[kross6622 0]

ok im having these thoughts running threw my head.

Im stuck. My original plan was to get 1 12 in btl fully loaded.

But now I have been thinking...

449 12 btl - 2000+ rms 3 cub

648 2 -10 bl - 2000+ rms 3 cub

528 2 -10 q - 2000 rms 2.4 cub

657 3 - 10 ssd 2400 rms 4.5 cub feet

thats just a rough notpad of whats in my head. Space is a concern. As I dont want to lose my whole trunk. my amp can push 2500 @ 1 ohm. If someone could rate these in the following for me cuz im to tired to think.

Loudest SPL, Cleanest, Best for heavy daily use (I drive 45 minutes a day to school and 45 back. I like to bump most the way. This is a must)

Would a 12 in BTL be able to withstand such abuse. I know more cone area means more spl. But space becomes an issue. If it wasnt I would get two 12 bls fully loaded.

I would do 3 10's but that puts me in the same space as would 2 12 bls. My friend has 2 15's and they are loud. If I could fit 1 15 btl in my car would that make a huge difference (1-3+db). I know its all about the setup.

Im sure the Q will be best for the quality and they rank middle in price. But would 1 15 btl be better then 2 10 q's? its 5 in more cone area(Q's). AHHH so many choices...

I want these to last, and im not doing competitions I just want to have a system that I dont want to upgrade every year. I had one 12 and loved it. Just wish it was a little more.

Also real quick newbie question. I had a 12 in orion pushed by 252 watts rms at 4 Ohms. By getting 1 12in btl and running at 2500 watts rms at 1 ohm be twice as loud. I know in order to double the sound you need the 10x watts. Even tho the resistance is different? I like 1 12 setup, but I like to be safe. And if being safe will also help make it louder, then its worth it.