Popping noice from my BTL 15

[MitaG3 0]

Okay well I broke my sub (Fi BTL 15) in for about a week so I turned my amp up (Power Acoustik BAMF 4000/1D). It claims 2200 rms. When I turn the bass up high enough the sub will start making popping noises, I'm pretty sure my amp isn't going to bottom out a BTL so I figure my amps just giving a clipped signal. I checked my wires going to the amp none of them seem to be pinched anywhere. I'm running 8 gauge that I had to cram into the terminals on the sub. Do you think that is where my problem is that maybe the speaker wire is falling out of the terminals or messed up? I would look but taking my box out is quite the pain I don't wanna do it if I don't have too. My only other guess is that I don't have a second battery yet so maybe I'm starving the amp a bit and that's causing it? any guesses would be much appreciated thank you

[BKOLFO4 29]

What are the box parameters?

Subsonic filter? Setting?

How far does it look like the sub is moving?

Popping could be the coil hitting the backplate. . .

[KU40 173]

Might help to be more specific about the popping noise. Is it just a tapping sound, a dull sound, a sound like metal crashing, etc.?

How did you set your gain? What other settings do you have on the head unit and amp and how are they adjusted? Does it happen on all frequencies or only certain ones? Is the sub moving a lot when it happens?

[mjmarovi 8]

I'm guessing the sub is reaching mechxmax, and not because of power but because of clipped signal. no offense, but as I'm sure you already know that is a cheap amplifier, and is not putting out anywhere near that 2200 watts, lucky if 1400-1500 after voltage drop. Therefore your gain is probably up too high along with bass boost to try and compensate. BTL's are beasts, but improper install on a 1kw amp will do more damage than proper install of a 5kw amp on one.

[MitaG3 0]

I'm guessing the sub is reaching mechxmax, and not because of power but because of clipped signal. no offense, but as I'm sure you already know that is a cheap amplifier, and is not putting out anywhere near that 2200 watts, lucky if 1400-1500 after voltage drop. Therefore your gain is probably up too high along with bass boost to try and compensate. BTL's are beasts, but improper install on a 1kw amp will do more damage than proper install of a 5kw amp on one.

Yeah I know it's not the best amp but it was from my old set-up, was cheap, and did the job. The noice sounded like a crashing noice between two things but very quick. just a quick pop then it would stop for a few seconds and do it again.

As for specs the box is just under 3.5 cu ft (3.4xxx) and the port is tuned at 32 hz. I set the gain by turning my volume to about as loud as I'll ever listen and then turned the gain up till it started being distorted then dropped it a bit. bass boost on the amp is either at 1/2 or 3/4. bass boost on head unit is off and the bass setting I believe is on 5/6. LPF is at 100 I believe, might be 80.

When I noticed was right before I went to work so I couldn't test it a bunch but from the testing I did it was on the really powerful low end hits. And yeah the sub was moving a pretty good deal like to the point it could have been bottoming out but I wasn't sure if my amp would really push it that hard due to the massive voltage drop i'm getting right now.

Edited October 28, 2009 by MitaG3

[mjmarovi 8]

turn bass boost on the amp all the way down, that's what's doing it. sorry man, I know it makes it "louder" but really you're not helping yourself. on the HU there is a difference between sub "level" and "bass boost" sub "level" is just fine to crank up on a HU all it does is strengthen the signal strength, but bass boost, only effects a central frequency on a short bandwidth, causing the woofer to sound louder usually around 45 hz. that's the cause for the odd sound at lower notes when it is trying to play the musical since wave on top of the 45 hz sine wave that is being boosted from the amp itself. understand?

[MitaG3 0]

turn bass boost on the amp all the way down, that's what's doing it. sorry man, I know it makes it "louder" but really you're not helping yourself. on the HU there is a difference between sub "level" and "bass boost" sub "level" is just fine to crank up on a HU all it does is strengthen the signal strength, but bass boost, only effects a central frequency on a short bandwidth, causing the woofer to sound louder usually around 45 hz. that's the cause for the odd sound at lower notes when it is trying to play the musical since wave on top of the 45 hz sine wave that is being boosted from the amp itself. understand?

Alright yeah that makes sense. Is it safe to assume I will need to reset my gain then after turning the bass boost off?

Also I am about to get a yellow top battery (the higher amp one I can't think of the actual spec on it right now) and run my 4 gauge power wire that is currently going to my amp to that battery and then get 0 gauge to go to my amp. I'm sure to see a significant difference after that correct? And will I need to check my gain again to make sure it's still good too? I'm getting a good 3-4 volt drop without that extra battery

[mjmarovi 8]

try setting your gain with a dmm, there is a tutorial on that somehwere here on the forum, but basically you get a read out with a test tone of the true signal strength (Vac) you are getting from the rca's from your head unit and then match the gain up to that number on the gain knob on the amplifier. which optima? or really how much you trying to spend?

you can pick up a kinetik hc1400 for 190 shipped to your door from www.onlinecarstereo.com it's a 1500 amp batt, so basically equates to a 1500 watt system which is probably pretty close to what you would see from your amp if you had decent electrical to back it. even an hc800 for the $140 dollars on top of your stock batt would really help out a lot. the hc1400 could flat out replace your existing battery altogether.

[MitaG3 0]

try setting your gain with a dmm, there is a tutorial on that somehwere here on the forum, but basically you get a read out with a test tone of the true signal strength (Vac) you are getting from the rca's from your head unit and then match the gain up to that number on the gain knob on the amplifier. which optima? or really how much you trying to spend?

you can pick up a kinetik hc1400 for 190 shipped to your door from www.onlinecarstereo.com it's a 1500 amp batt, so basically equates to a 1500 watt system which is probably pretty close to what you would see from your amp if you had decent electrical to back it. even an hc800 for the $140 dollars on top of your stock batt would really help out a lot. the hc1400 could flat out replace your existing battery altogether.

Well I was thinking about the Yellow Top if I could get a discount. But now that you mention it that kinetik does sound like the better buy thank you. Money wasn't too much of an option so I might sell off my amp and get a better one, haven't done any looking yet i'll probably do that tonight though. And then get the kinetik thats closer to that true power.

[mjmarovi 8]

wise choice

[MitaG3 0]

wise choice

I realize there is a multitude of amps to choose from but anyone have idea's off the top of their head for great amps for the money to power one of these?

[mjmarovi 8]

Sundown 2000d. great amp, runs a bit over 600 new, db-r.com has a refurb for like 459 right now, so that would be a steal.

just some other ideas though...

Sundown 3500d.

RF T30001bd.

RF T2500bd

Treo SSX2000.1

Incriminator Audio 20.1

RF T20001.bd

Audioque 2200d.

Soundstream TRX 2000d

Alpine M2000 (amp is 2 ohm tho, so would have to re-cone to a dual 1 and wire in series for a 2 ohm load)

Hifonics 2610d. (many ppl may rag on this amp, but it will push at least a true 2300 rms. for the dollar it's a good amp)

I mean the list kinda goes on and on with these woofers as many people run 2kw on them, and many others run 3kw+ on them daily.

for you, I may recommend just getting a solid 2kw amp though.

I made the list with prices all over, so it depends on what you want to spend, also loosely in order of my personal recommendation

[MitaG3 0]

Alright yeah if money works out right then I will definitely get one of those. Otherwise what are your opinions on Quantum Audio? I've seen people run it at a few comps but most of their stuff is pretty cheap (price wise) so I figured I would get cheap quality too.

[mjmarovi 8]

no experience with Quantum Audio, but any company that wants to show-off a cap on their homepage as if it's something helpful and important is definitely not going in the right direction.....

looks like cheap

[MitaG3 0]

no experience with Quantum Audio, but any company that wants to show-off a cap on their homepage as if it's something helpful and important is definitely not going in the right direction.....

looks like cheap

lol didn't even realize that, good point. Unless someone has some experience that would say otherwise I'll definitely stay away from that.

[jcarter1885 995]

no experience with Quantum Audio, but any company that wants to show-off a cap on their homepage as if it's something helpful and important is definitely not going in the right direction.....

looks like cheap

lol didn't even realize that, good point. Unless someone has some experience that would say otherwise I'll definitely stay away from that.

I did an install with them and it made the subs bang but not top notch quality or anything (a cheap budget amp that wont put out gobs of power and overrated).

[SynCity 2]

haha something i know a little about finally.

i had 2 of the BAMF 5500's in my magnum running 1 on a pair icon 15's (2 amps 4 subs). anyways these amps are total crap. after a while of "bumping" the amp would just go into protect REALLY fast. so after a while i decided to "tune it down" and then i just ended up turning the subs off on the deck. driving down the free way the subs ended up making the popping noise and pushing the subs way beyond a safe excursion. anyways i just sent the amp back to power acoustiks.

so in another words. i'm getting a sundown

[KU40 173]

Sounds like you had the icons wired at too low of impedance for the amp?

[iamamp3pimp 34]

quantam = garbage

[ppiflat10s 3]

Also I am about to get a yellow top battery (the higher amp one I can't think of the actual spec on it right now) and run my 4 gauge power wire that is currently going to my amp to that battery and then get 0 gauge to go to my amp. I'm sure to see a significant difference after that correct? And will I need to check my gain again to make sure it's still good too? I'm getting a good 3-4 volt drop without that extra battery

you might want to rethink the wiring, especially if buying an even bigger (true rated) amp.

run 0 from the front battery to the back battery, and possibly if its a short run, you can get away with 4 gauge from the rear batt to the amp. or if the amp accepts 0 gauge you can run 0 from the rear batt to amp.

[MitaG3 0]

Also I am about to get a yellow top battery (the higher amp one I can't think of the actual spec on it right now) and run my 4 gauge power wire that is currently going to my amp to that battery and then get 0 gauge to go to my amp. I'm sure to see a significant difference after that correct? And will I need to check my gain again to make sure it's still good too? I'm getting a good 3-4 volt drop without that extra battery

you might want to rethink the wiring, especially if buying an even bigger (true rated) amp.

run 0 from the front battery to the back battery, and possibly if its a short run, you can get away with 4 gauge from the rear batt to the amp. or if the amp accepts 0 gauge you can run 0 from the rear batt to amp.

So you think it would be better to run the 0 gauge to the battery instead of the sub?

[bigrank916 72]

1/0 gauge to rear batt and amp and 8 gauge to driver if possible. Just seen 4 gauge done by chop and it looked pretty wicked to the sub.

Edited November 1, 2009 by bigrank916

[MitaG3 0]

1/0 gauge to rear batt and amp and 8 gauge to driver if possible. Just seen 4 gauge done by chop and it looked pretty wicked to the sub.

Yeah I have 8 gauge into the sub right now and it doesn't really fit. I trimmed some and twisted a lot to shove it all in there. For now I would have 4 gauge to my Kinetik HC1400 that should be here soon and then 0 gauge to the amp.