Settings for the MLI 6.5

[audioman21 0]

I picked up a pair of these the other day for my doors and was wondering if somebody could tell me what to set the crossover at- low pass, full, or high pass?

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

I ran mine for a while from 40hz up to 2200hz and really enjoyed the performance. Please give more info on your install.

[dubbreak 4]

I picked up a pair of these the other day for my doors and was wondering if somebody could tell me what to set the crossover at- low pass, full, or high pass?

What's your system?

What are you running for tweeters? What are you running for subs? What are you crossing your current speakers at?

[audioman21 0]

Sorry for the lack of more info. All of my mids and highs will be glassed in the doors. I don't know exactly what way i'm going yet. My plans thus far were going to be one mach5 and one or two 5.25 components per door. The amp is an Elemental Designs Nine.4

Sub stage i have two DC level four 12"s with level five coils and two Elemental designs nine.1's. i was thinking about dropping down to one Nine.1 and maybe three 10's, either the SSa Dcons or the Incriminator 187's.

Denim-- when you said you ran yours from 40hz up to 2200hz, what does that mean on the-- low pass, full, or high pass switch?

I've never ran seperate mids like this before and am a newb on the matter.

Edited December 29, 2009 by audioman21

[jcarter1885 995]

Sorry for the lack of more info. All of my mids and highs will be glassed in the doors. I don't know exactly what way i'm going yet. My plans thus far were going to be one mach5 and one or two 5.25 components per door. The amp is an Elemental Designs Nine.4

Sub stage i have two DC level four 12"s with level five coils and two Elemental designs nine.1's. i was thinking about dropping down to one Nine.1 and maybe three 10's, either the SSa Dcons or the Incriminator 187's.

I would stick with one Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 and one component set per door.

[audioman21 0]

Sorry for the lack of more info. All of my mids and highs will be glassed in the doors. I don't know exactly what way i'm going yet. My plans thus far were going to be one mach5 and one or two 5.25 components per door. The amp is an Elemental Designs Nine.4

Sub stage i have two DC level four 12"s with level five coils and two Elemental designs nine.1's. i was thinking about dropping down to one Nine.1 and maybe three 10's, either the SSa Dcons or the Incriminator 187's.

I would stick with one Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 and one component set per door.

You think two component sets per door in a coupe are too much?

[jcarter1885 995]

Sorry for the lack of more info. All of my mids and highs will be glassed in the doors. I don't know exactly what way i'm going yet. My plans thus far were going to be one mach5 and one or two 5.25 components per door. The amp is an Elemental Designs Nine.4

Sub stage i have two DC level four 12"s with level five coils and two Elemental designs nine.1's. i was thinking about dropping down to one Nine.1 and maybe three 10's, either the SSa Dcons or the Incriminator 187's.

I would stick with one Mach 5 Audio MLI-65 and one component set per door.

You think two component sets per door in a coupe are too much?

There is an install on here that has two components per door and two mli-65's per door, but it would make any sense to put two speakers playing the same frequency in the same door.

[dubbreak 4]

I don't even see the point in running them with components as well. They are mids. Get some good tweets and cross them actively with your 4 channel. Definitely do not do 2 pairs components per door. You'll have horrible imaging. Running two sets of tweeters in one door is a bad idea (guaranteed to get comb filtering). You can get away with multiple mids depending on how low they are crossed and how close they are to each other.

I'd go:

-decent tweets 2500hz up (i.e. high passed), maybe some Seas tweeters, there are some affordable Vifa that would do the job nicely as well

-Mach 5 MLI 60hz-2500hz (i.e. band passed, aka high passed at 60 and low passed at 2500)

-subs low passed at 60.

If you insist on going with 5.25 components then:

-high pass comonents 500hz

-mach5 mli 60-500hz (band passed)

-subs 60hz low pass

Those are just some starting suggested values. I don't think you'd want to run the MLI down to 40hz. Better to let the subs take care of that. You may want to run the MLIs as high as 80hz on the high pass portion of the bandpass. You'll have to play with them to see.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Denim-- when you said you ran yours from 40hz up to 2200hz, what does that mean on the-- low pass, full, or high pass switch?

I've never ran seperate mids like this before and am a newb on the matter.

On the head unit, the high pass crossover was set at 40hz at a 12db slope and the low pass crossover was set at 2000hz.

[///M5 2,833]

Adding a 5.25" driver to a 6.5" makes no sense at all. Either run the mli's with just a tweeter or get a dedicated midrange (ie 3"/4") and a tweeter. Using a full range driver along with them would be okay as well.

Mounting locations?

[audioman21 0]

Since you guys are saying not to do what i was going to do how about helping me choose what mids and hi's set up to do.? The amp is an Elemental Designs Nine.4 so far i have two MLI 6.5's. My plans are fiberglassing some door pods into a coupe ( still looking for a sound car, but will be roughly a 95-97 Cutlass Supreme)

For subs gonna step down from the two level four's and two ED Nine.1's to one Nine.1 and three 10's.

For mids and hi's I'm looking for loud and crisp that will keep up with said woofers and then a little bit. With all that being said what would be best, should I order two more 6.5's and four tweeters or just keep it to two 6.5's and two tweeters? budget wise for tweeters i'd like to stay under a hundred for tweeters more if you guys suggest four tweeters.

Thanks for the help and time reading my post.

[///M5 2,833]

Why midbasses and components? Why partly active and part passive?

[audioman21 0]

I actually got the idea from ***** *****'s Tahoe door rebuild. He has the four 6.5" components and a 8" in the front doors. I like the way his came out so i figured i'd do something kind of like that. he runs all active though. Like I said though you guys know more than me about this so I gave my budget and specifics, and i'm all ears to what mids and hi's set up you guys would think works for me.

As far as the door pods, i have all the skills and tools to build those its just when it comes to speakers I've only ever worked with coaxils. Components and 6.5" mid basses are all new to me.

Edited January 2, 2010 by audioman21

[dubbreak 4]

I actually got the idea from ***** *****'s Tahoe door rebuild. He has the four 6.5" components and a 8" in the front doors. I like the way his came out so i figured i'd do something kind of like that. he runs all active though. Like I said though you guys know more than me about this so I gave my budget and specifics, and i'm all ears to what mids and hi's set up you guys would think works for me.

As far as the door pods, i have all the skills and tools to build those its just when it comes to speakers I've only ever worked with coaxils. Components and 6.5" mid basses are all new to me.

4 sets of components per door will ruin your imaging. Period. Plus it makes no sense from a sensitivity persective. Having one set of components and 2x8" makes a lot more sense. Not only will all those tweeters have major combing issues, so will the mids and you'll get horribly lobing. NIce for show but not so good for listening to IMHO. Actually I don't like the show aspect either. Unless you are shooting for "OMG LUK @ TEH SPEAKERZ!"

Even if you are going to a SPL build (not sq or ""SQL"") it stil doesn't make sense running multiple component sets. If one tweeter per side isn't enough (i.e. you are blowing tweeters), then you are either crossing them too low or you need different tweeter. There are compression drivers that are 110db efficient (1W/1M) and can handle 100W rms when crossed at 1200hz (more if crossed higher). Those should keep up with any sub stage you have.

[Notorious97200 339]

Just a little question, please!

If the OP already has 2 sets of 6.5", can he run one set as dedicated midbass (from 80 to around 500hz) and the second as midrange(above 500)?.

He would have to buy only one set of tweeters.

But that "is" 6 channels of amp.

Of course the sub(s) would play under 80 hz.

[audioman21 0]

I have the two Mli's already, I was just seeing if anybody could help me come up with a nice highs set up that'll go with all the equipment I've stated. I mean I asked how to set the amps for them and I stated my plans and everyone said don't do it, so now trying to figure out what to do. Whats a good tweet to match up to my pair of mli's?

oh I'm not doing a four component set up and a 8" per door I said I seen build that inspired me to do something similar in a way but heard that wasn't the way to go.

Edited January 3, 2010 by audioman21

[///M5 2,833]

Where will you be mounting your tweeters? Will a large format tweeter work? (ie 3-4" diameter)

[audioman21 0]

All would be in a door pod. I looked at tweets on Parts express, but can't figure out what good and whats not.. What about something like like in the link below, either that or similar?

Parts-Express.com:

[dubbreak 4]

All would be in a door pod. I looked at tweets on Parts express, but can't figure out what good and whats not.. What about something like like in the link below, either that or similar?

Parts-Express.com:�Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter | Vifa BC25SC06-04 tweeter vifa vline dome waveguide hf high frequency mtm horn loaded tymphany09

Best bang for your buck on a tweeter is gonna be the Vifa DQ25SC. You'd have to pay a lot more for a tweeter that can match that one. Plus it's a nice small neo motor (could even do sail panels with them). If you can actively cross LR4 (24db/octave slope) you could cross them as low as 2000hz. 2400-2500 would be safer and since the MLI has nice smooth response you should be able to get it to cross that high easy.

The vifa xt25 is popular with the SQ crowd. It's a decent price. A really nice tweeter, but it has to be crossed a bit higher than the cheaper one I linked to and the ring radiator style is tempting for people that like to poke.

The Seas 27tff is also popular (nice small size and can cross pretty low). The form factor is really nice for car audio. There is a metal cone version as well. 27TAF or something.

Check out Zaph's tweeter mishmash for some decent reviews on tweeters. The compare tool lets you check out frequency response and distortion measurements. Since he performs all the measurements the same they are actually comparable to each other (unlike graphs from the manufacturers).

[audioman21 0]

I think I'm gonna order some Vifa's from that Madisound site you showed me. Final question until I get them, I'm not going for SQ but I want it to sound clean and good but what if I do four of those Vifas (2 per door) with the two Mli's(1 per door)? Would that be way too much or atleast be decent?

[crosspug 2]

One set of the vifas and one set of the MLi's should be fine. I wouldn't bother with two tweeters........

Just for the record those XT25 tweeters are very nice. But make sure you have a play with whatever tweeter you get (different mounting locations, on axis/off axis etc...)

Jono

Edited January 4, 2010 by crosspug

[audioman21 0]

Thanks for all the advice and help guys I really appreciate it.

[///M5 2,833]

The tweeters are going to be significantly louder than the Mli's. It would therefore be not a good move to do two...

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

All would be in a door pod. I looked at tweets on Parts express, but can't figure out what good and whats not.. What about something like like in the link below, either that or similar?

Parts-Express.com:�Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter | Vifa BC25SC06-04 tweeter vifa vline dome waveguide hf high frequency mtm horn loaded tymphany09

Best bang for your buck on a tweeter is gonna be the Vifa DQ25SC. You'd have to pay a lot more for a tweeter that can match that one. Plus it's a nice small neo motor (could even do sail panels with them). If you can actively cross LR4 (24db/octave slope) you could cross them as low as 2000hz. 2400-2500 would be safer and since the MLI has nice smooth response you should be able to get it to cross that high easy.

The vifa xt25 is popular with the SQ crowd. It's a decent price. A really nice tweeter, but it has to be crossed a bit higher than the cheaper one I linked to and the ring radiator style is tempting for people that like to poke.

The Seas 27tff is also popular (nice small size and can cross pretty low). The form factor is really nice for car audio. There is a metal cone version as well. 27TAF or something.

Check out Zaph's tweeter mishmash for some decent reviews on tweeters. The compare tool lets you check out frequency response and distortion measurements. Since he performs all the measurements the same they are actually comparable to each other (unlike graphs from the manufacturers).

Great post. I agree for sure on the SEAS. I have them and ran them comfortably down to 2000hz often. A few people have mentioned they did not like the off axis response, but I did not try mine out in enough different locations to form a strong opinion on off axis.

[dubbreak 4]

I think I'm gonna order some Vifa's from that Madisound site you showed me. Final question until I get them, I'm not going for SQ but I want it to sound clean and good but what if I do four of those Vifas (2 per door) with the two Mli's(1 per door)? Would that be way too much or atleast be decent?

Don't run two tweeters in a door! The tweeters are more efficient than the mids, they will get plenty loud and running multiple per side will ruin your imaging.

It will sound better with one tweeter per side. 2 is a waste of money and completely useless. Though if there is a discount on 4+ then buying 4 isn't a bad idea (just in case you blow one up).