New here with a few Questions.

[amr952 0]

I just finished ordering my Rl-p 12, and I cant wait to get it. I think i messed up a little, see what I did was buy an amp before sub thinking that I was going to get a different sub, but now I decided on this one. The first problem I have is way too much power I beleive. I have the Lanzar Opti 2000D, which will put out 1100 at 2 ohms. I will obviously keep the gains turned down. The main point of this post is the enclosure for me that will handle some of that power and sound good doing it. It seems that most ppl around here say to try this thing sealed, but I have a few questions about that first. The kind of music I listen to is country, rock, and some rap, so I need it to play those notes that I need. So what do you guys think sealed or ported. Also size? 2^3 maybe? Any help would be appreciated. And dont worry I will post pics and vids when finished , I noticed that all of you like those. Thanks in advance for the help.

Andrew

[mrray13 30]

if u set the gains properly, teh rl-p will take the 1100wrms. i fu try to get more then the sub is giving u ie: clip the amp, the sub will tell u about it.

anyway...for ur application, a 1.8-2ft^3 ported box, tuned to 32-34hz with 25-30in^2 of port would work beautifully.

converesly, a sealed box in the neighborhood of 1.25-1.35ft^3 would work as well.

either would be a good choice with the ported offering more output with excellent sq, adn the sealed offering more sq qith great output.

just set those gains right, and u should be good to go!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[Supa_c 1]

P.S

mrray13 cant spell

[mrray13 30]

leave my spelling outa this...

my fingers can't keep up with my thoughts..lol...the words are spelled right in my head...lmao

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[Supa_c 1]

Happens to me.

offtopic...

there is a disorder that has something to di with branwaves and spelling.

some guy i know has it, he cant chat very well and mis spells but when he types a paper it takes him very little time

[amr952 0]

if u set the gains properly, teh rl-p will take the 1100wrms. i fu try to get more then the sub is giving u ie: clip the amp, the sub will tell u about it.

anyway...for ur application, a 1.8-2ft^3 ported box, tuned to 32-34hz with 25-30in^2 of port would work beautifully.

converesly, a sealed box in the neighborhood of 1.25-1.35ft^3 would work as well.

either would be a good choice with the ported offering more output with excellent sq, adn the sealed offering more sq qith great output.

just set those gains right, and u should be good to go!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the help mrray I think I might try and build both and see which I like better. Girlfriends Dad + Lumber Yard = Free MDF Anyways If it is ok I might post pics of my plans in here and if you have a sec., could you just take a glance and see if I made any stupid mistakes. Thanks man.

[mrray13 30]

that's what we are here for bro!! and that's a sweet hook up! definittely build both and let us know ur thoughts on each!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[amr952 0]

I'm back again with another question. I am going to go pick up my boards tom. so I can start building. The guy at the Lumber yard told me that I may want to also think about using MDO board because It is a little stronger. I have never heard of this being used for sub boxes or if it can be used. If anyone has any experiece with this please let me know remember price is not an issue I just want the best that I can get. Thanks for all the help so far. I will post pics of sub and box plans as soon as I come up with them. Thanks again.

[amr952 0]

Ok so far for the sealed box I have come up with a box that 14H x 15W x 10.5D all are outside dimensions, which seems to be 1.53 before displacement and 1.35 after. Now I will post the ported box next.

[amr952 0]

Ok so for the ported box this is what I came up with. The box itself will be 14.5H x 29W x 13.5D. That will make the box ~2.48^3. Now for the port, the port will be 13H x 2W x 29L which will tune it ~31hz, there will then be 26^2 inches of port and the port will take up .436^3 ft. So I think that will make the box ~1.9 after all calculations and displacement figures. I hope I did all of that right please let me know what you think. Thanks for taking a look at this for me. Andrew

[mrray13 30]

Ok so far for the sealed box I have come up with a box that 14H x 15W x 10.5D all are outside dimensions, which seems to be 1.53 before displacement and 1.35 after. Now I will post the ported box next.

all u have here is 1.28ft^3 gross...

make ur box 15x15x16....after sub displacment, u'll have 1.35ft^3..

or, if height is an issue..go 14x16x16.25...will be just a touch larger then 1.35ft^3 net

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[mrray13 30]

Ok so for the ported box this is what I came up with. The box itself will be 14.5H x 29W x 13.5D. That will make the box ~2.48^3. Now for the port, the port will be 13H x 2W x 29L which will tune it ~31hz, there will then be 26^2 inches of port and the port will take up .436^3 ft. So I think that will make the box ~1.9 after all calculations and displacement figures.  I hope I did all of that right please let me know what you think.  Thanks for taking a look at this for me. Andrew

all the math is correct, the only problem is, with the port, u forgot to figure in the wood thickness in ur displacement. it's actually going to displace about .6ft^3, leaving u with a 1.7ft^3 net box. also, according to this port calculator, ur port need to be 33.17 inches long...but i'd just do 33".

so, using a 33" long port, 13 x 2 port area..we have (not figuring in end correction, which i don't feel is necessary for daily drivers, unless ur anal about things) .68ft^3 of port displacment..

we have .18ft^3 of driver displacment, plus the port is .86ft^3 of total displacement inside the box....we are aiming for 1.9ft^3 total volume, so we need 2.76ft^3 gross internal voume...

here's the box u need to build....

14.5t x 32.25w x 13.5d. that will five u about 2.78ft^3 gross...or 1.92 net...close enough...lol..

port, 13t x 2w x 33l

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[amr952 0]

Ok I have my RL-P in a 1.35 ^3 ft box. It sounds great. I do have one problem though. When I play it loud it sounds like something is hitting inside the sub somewhere. It is a loud and very annoying sound. Obviously I do not play it like this i am scared to mess it up. Some ppl on here are pushing their subs 1200 watts and say it is worling just fine. I am giving mine just about 1000 watts. I think there may someting wrong with my sub. I can make a vid with sound. Do I just attach it like a regular file? Or do you guys already know what is wrong with it. Thanks for the help.

Andrew

[Reza 0]

One member here reported the same thing but then the mounting hole was a bit tight and made this noise, he enlarge the hole and the sound was gone. I had the sme problem too, i thought the box was fine, then when i tried pulling the sub out it was stuck and had to force the sub out, work fine with other sub though.

[SoundSplinter 1]

Hello Andrew, you may also want to check to insure that you don't have loose cables (or loose anything for that matter) inside your box that may be hitting the cone during excursion. Following that, try playing it free-air (it won't take much power to get it moving to full excursion) to see if there are any noticeable problems outside of your box. If you're sure there is no outside interference and the driver is still making this noise, then it is time to send it in. Feel free to email me your video (mike -at- soundsplinter.com) and hopefully we'll get things patched up quick!

[amr952 0]

Hello Andrew, you may also want to check to insure that you don't have loose cables (or loose anything for that matter) inside your box that may be hitting the cone during excursion.  Following that, try playing it free-air (it won't take much power to get it moving to full excursion) to see if there are any noticeable problems outside of your box.  If you're sure there is no outside interference and the driver is still making this noise, then it is time to send it in.  Feel free to email me your video (mike -at- soundsplinter.com) and hopefully we'll get things patched up quick!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ok no problem I will take it out of the box and try to play it and see if it still makes the noise. If it does I will make a quick vid and send it over but I is probably my box. Thanks for the help.

Andrew

[amr952 0]

Well good news. The noise is not from the sub. As soon as I took the sub out of the box, the noise stopped. I guess my box building skills are not too good. I will try and build another one sometime this weekend and keep you guys informed. Thanks for the help.

Andrew

[SoundSplinter 1]

Well I am happy to hear it is not the speaker that is the problem. But have you located the weakness in your box? Air leak perhaps? Some loose material? Don't build another box until you figure out what the problem with the first one is 'less you inadvertently make the same mistake again! :ph34r:

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

good to hear its not the sub, this seems to have happened a few times now with different members,

Andrew good luck with the install, if you need more help with the box we have plenty of members here with excellent box plans for the sub, and we have a few members that build boxes