some electrical questions

[M.C.BOB 0]

I'm currently running 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's and plan on upgrading my amp (currently a crunch 1500 lol, it's getting the job done for now) to 2 saz-1500d's. Right now I'm just saving up money for the amps and working on my electrical. I currently added a lead straight from the alternator to the battery. Replaced the lead from the battery to the chassis and sanded it to bare metal. Added a lead from the block to the the battery. And finally today I added a lead from the block to the chassis (using the same spots as the other grounds). Is upgrading this wire even necessary? After I put that on I had a reading of 14.1X. Turned on the system and it stayed pretty consistent not dropping below 14.00 volts. Used 1/0 gauge by the way.

Anyway, I would like a higher voltage reading and had a few questions. Does the length of the ground leads alter the current flow? Meaning if I had shorter grounds would voltage raise? The block to battery ground pretty much goes across the engine bay (it's roughly a 4ft lead) same with the chassis to block lead.

Lastly when I do upgrade my amps I'll add a second battery for them. Should I run the power lead from the front off the battery, or could I run it straight off the alternator? Or does this matter. Also I was planning on grounding the amps from the battery upfront. Is this a good choice or is there a batter option?

As I was typing this I thought of another question. Would another run from the alternator to the battery help any? As stated before I have 0 gauge but unfortunately it has very think insulation. I may experiment with this over the weekend.

Sorry for the long post I just want to get everything as perfect as I can. Any info is much appreciated.

[Duran 387]

Shortening the wire will not increase voltage, the best thing to do is to ad a length of fused wire from the front battery to the back battery in 1/0 or larger, link that to your battery in the rear, depending on the frame of your vehicle you might have to make one ground wire run or ground directly to the frame.

Welding cable is your best bet for wire actually, a local store will normally sell it for about $2.50/foot for actual copper wire vs. copper clad aluminum wire.

[M.C.BOB 0]

I meant to say would an extra lead from the batt to the alt (under the hood, not the extra battery in the trunk) help voltage*, not the battery.

Shortening the wire will not increase voltage, the best thing to do is to ad a length of fused wire from the front battery to the back battery in 1/0 or larger, link that to your battery in the rear, depending on the frame of your vehicle you might have to make one ground wire run or ground directly to the frame.

Welding cable is your best bet for wire actually, a local store will normally sell it for about $2.50/foot for actual copper wire vs. copper clad aluminum wire.

Alright good news. I was hopping I didn't waste the wire. I bought a 50tf spool of power wire, and 50tf of ground wire so I'm good on that. Thanks for the info man.

[Duran 387]

If you have the wire go for it, but it's not needed and unless you are actually pushing the limit of 1/0 gauge wire, which is rated for about 350 amps it's not needed

[M.C.BOB 0]

May give it a shot I guess it wouldn't hurt anything.

[BanginGMC 23]

(2) SAZ-1500s? Are you going to strap them?

[M.C.BOB 0]

(2) SAZ-1500s? Are you going to strap them?

Yes

[Optimus_Prime 30]

Here are 2 of my fav cables, on left is 2/0 welding flex-a-prene and other is kicker 1/0 both are nice and flexable, i opted to do 2 runs of the kicker since i could only find it in 50' spool, and supporting 5kw, but one run should be fine for your goal. the major benefit will come with 250+ amp alt.

Edited October 15, 2010 by Optimus_Prime