installation with bypass harness help

[ssh 924]

Hey guys, So here's pictures of stock harness and new one:

stock

new

The blue wire goes to positive stud on alt, correct? I know where the black positive cable from stock wiring goes to positive stud on alt (from stock pic)

But where/does the white wire, and the two red wires go to the old wiring? In the pic you see the red wire with ring terminal on left, but on the right theres another red wire about 3-4" long with no ring terminal, just dangling (is this one used?)

Thanks

[ssh 924]

where the stock harness connects into the rest of all the vehicles wiring, part of it is just wired together and wrapped with tape and plastic housing, and then theres a snap connector, but it doesn't look anything like the new harness.

I'll get a picture of what I'm talking about

[ssh 924]

Here's the wiring from the stock harness:

[ssh 924]

Here's what I got so far after talking to Kyle,

Do I need to unplug the resistor from the new harness and solder it to the old plug (labeled connector a)?

[DC Power Rob 4]

Stefan, for the relay: The Red & Blue wire with ring terminals go to the positive output stud of the new alternator, the white wire with the ring terminal is ground, and the short red wire is just any switched 12+ (key on/Key off).. You have the molded harness which can be problematic.. In your picture, "A" is the original B+, C is ground, and B1 & B2 is the field connections for the stock alternator which are not used. Because you have the molded plug, it's probably going to be easier to cut the molded plastic apart to get the B+ and ground out, and cut the 2 small wires (which is for the actual bypass of the PCM).. I'm not sure what connector A is, I haven't seen that before that I remember (been a long time since Ive been under the hood of one of those.

The only thing you need for the new alt to function is contained in that relay, just plug it in, give it switched 12+ and your good to go.. If you need anything else, give me a call on my cell.. 801-618-9586

[DC Power Rob 4]

Actually, I will have to have them send you a new resistor, I just remembered that when we sent that we were out of resistors for the bypass.. the resistor in the harness you have to leave for the new alternator..

[ssh 924]

Stefan, for the relay: The Red & Blue wire with ring terminals go to the positive output stud of the new alternator, the white wire with the ring terminal is ground, and the short red wire is just any switched 12+ (key on/Key off).. You have the molded harness which can be problematic.. In your picture, "A" is the original B+, C is ground, and B1 & B2 is the field connections for the stock alternator which are not used. Because you have the molded plug, it's probably going to be easier to cut the molded plastic apart to get the B+ and ground out, and cut the 2 small wires (which is for the actual bypass of the PCM).. I'm not sure what connector A is, I haven't seen that before that I remember (been a long time since Ive been under the hood of one of those.

The only thing you need for the new alt to function is contained in that relay, just plug it in, give it switched 12+ and your good to go.. If you need anything else, give me a call on my cell.. 801-618-9586

If possible, I'd like to not cut open the plastic mold (that way when I go to sell my jeep I could put the stock alt back on).

Couldn't I wire and solder the red wire from the new harness to the original B+ on the old harness and wire the white wire (ground) on new harness to the old harness ground?

And then the new resistor your sending me would go on B1 and B2?

Would that work? Am I right about the resistor going on B1 and B2? If not, what does it connect to then?

Thank you for all the help, I appreciate it.

-Stefan

Edited October 17, 2010 by stefanhinote

[ssh 924]

Bump for the above questions.

[ssh 924]

And is the resistor in stock now?

[DC Power Rob 4]

If they weren't today, they will be tomorrow.. I'm back in L.A. now so I will make sure it gets handled tomorrow.. Did you get the alternator in yet? I installed the exact same (pretty much) 270XP on a '98 Ram 3500 with a 5.9 Cummins on Sunday and was reallly pleased with the way it went on the install.. Performance was ok too, it *only* did 180 at idle though with a stock 2 3/4" pulley..

[ssh 924]

sweet, I haven't installed the alternator because I thought I needed the resistor on the old wiring harness so it would work correctly.

Can I install it now and leave the old harness disconnected? Will it just trip a light, but still function properly?

Oh and did you see my last questions in post #7?

Thanks! I'm really excited about getting this monster in

[DC Power Rob 4]

Yes, you can install it no problem, I thought I clarified that, my apologies Stefan.. You can install it and run it with the supplied harness with no troubles at all. The alternator functions totally independent at this point.. It will just turn on the CEL until you put the resistor in the harness but will go out as soon as it's there.. And, to answer your last question, you are correct, in-between B1 and B2..

**Edit, sorry about not replying sooner, just got back to LA.. Still no high speed internet at home in SLC, and it's tough to use my ipad when I cant pry it out of my 2 year olds hands.. WI-Fi tethering and unlimited 3G on the ipad though is very sweet...

Edited October 20, 2010 by DC Power Rob

[ssh 924]

Awesome! Looks like I'll be installing it first thing after school tomorrow.

Woot!

[ssh 924]

Don't worry about it, I know I'm not the only customer

I'm jealous your in LA, I miss that city.

[ssh 924]

Update, for dc and everyone watching my install,

Mounted and wired everything up today, started up my jeep and my voltage was 12v, knew the alt wasn't charging.

Checked my 12v ignition wire for power on the stock harness and had zero volts, found a new place to wire up the 12v relay, started it up and same thing.

Called Rob and walked him through (or attempted to ) how everything was wired, Sent him some pictures in case he saw anything out of whack.

All the while my belt started to squeak, so I moved my tensioner and tightened it down, and boom idling at 15.1v

So yeah... had a couple confusing things here and there, Rob and Kyle walked me through everything, and now this monster is up and running :D

I'll get a video in a couple days, no longer have to hide my voltmeter

Thanks again DC for building an awesome product and having the best customer service.

[slim2fattycake 85]

yeah boy! lol.