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Alright guys, here is a single 18" EMF audio ermagerd Dual 1 (can be wired down to 0.5 ohm) that needs to be reconed. The recone will run you $200 so you can have a brand new 6,500 watt RMS sub for just $600 since I am offering this unit shipped anywhere in the U.S. for $400, NO TRADES.
This thing was able to handle a b2 audio m1u at 0.5 ohms for literally hours at a time until I got greedy and started clipping it with the gain. It got louder and lower than any other dual sub set-up I have ever had or owned and I have run kicker, SSA and Fi car audio to name a few. It will take the power and handle the abuse as long as the signal and power you are feeding it is clean.
Weighs in at just over 100lbs, features a super stupid silly insane HIGH-roll rubber surround and nearly 4" of peak-to-peak excursion with a true carbon-fiber dust cap and quad-stack magnet/motor.
Any further questions or concerns please feel free to ask me.
Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about.
What I have:
2010 Chevy Malibu
2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box)
no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive)
2400 Kinetik battery in trunk
bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol)
Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400
0 gauge and big three, but no dimming or anything at the moment
setup wired to 1 ohm
What I want:
to be significantly more powerful but still have great sound quality (on the highway)
to still be able to get quality bass also at lower power levels (when crusing through the city)
What can I do to get from where I am to where I want to be?
1. will more power to the Q12s make a significant difference? or would the difference in power be miniscule as the subs may be close to peak performance at 2400?
2. Would the BTLs be the way to go to get that BOOM? heard they need a boatload of power to actually make them much different from the Q line **just from what I have read, no personal experience**
ANY/ALL advice is appreciated. know how to help me out? please do! Think I'm doing something horribly wrong? tell me!
P.S. installed my first system 5 yeas ago and have done 4 since, not a bass expert but know more than the average Joe
Crescendo BC3500D is approximately six months old, has never been exposed to low voltage and has no scratches, dings or dents whatsoever. Does 3,875 watts RMS at 13.8v
Xs power XP3000 battery is sitting at over 12.7v after being out of my car for several weeks now and is rated to support 3,000 watts rms power
2/0 welding wire is rated to support over 400 continuous amps of current and has already been heat-shrinked and fused for both positive and negative runs from front to back plus the big three upgrade and an additional trunk ground if you so wish to use it
WIRE CAN BE HAD FOR $120 SHIPPED FORGOT TO PUT PRICE AMONG OTHER INFO ON SALES SHEET
Hello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers
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