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ArrizX

General Questions

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First, what is the different between the Original, and the Extreme Dynamat? Because, I am thinking of just getting two packs of the Original Speaker Kits. A set for up front, and a set in the back. I didnt think I would need to shell out for extreme. Should work all in the same manor right? I'm only going to put in the new '07 Type R comps and coax's. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=12644

And also, my car is a 2002 Honda civic SI. I believe it has a 70 amp alternator.

My sub amp will be pulling 1300wrms and speaker amp doing 60 wrms a channel. So, will I need a capacitor? If so, how many farads? What brand is good? Because I also have after market fog lights on it.

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1) Regular Dynamat is Asphalt based which means it stinks, dosent stick well, and its harder to work with. Dynamat Extreme is Butyl based which is better, it dosen't smell it works better because it adds more mass and plus it adheres better and it's easier to work with.

2)If you are pulling 1300 watts on a 70 amp alternator then you will probably need a capacitor. But before you shell out that money for a capacitor read this thread. It should help you.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;hl=big+three

~MadroX

*Edit* Look into other sound deadeners besides Dynamat. There are much better products out there. Look into RAAMmat and SecondSkin

Edited by Madrox

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You don't need a capacitor.

You need WAY more mat than 2 of those kits, I'd recommend at least 10 of them probably more. You really should just buy a roll. Raamaudio or SecondSkin are the two choices.

I would scrap the coax's in the rear and put the money into any other part of your system. The most logical place is the front stage. It will sound way better.

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x2

Much more than 2 "kits". I have 200sq. ft. installed, and another 150 laying around waiting for me to put it in.

Don't get me started on stupid capacitors...

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Well the mat is only for my speakers.

I have a hatch back, not a trunk, so I dont need to dampen anything for the subs.

Its just for each speaker. Because you take off the panel, and the side of the car is just right there.

Why don't I need a cap?

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You need to read up why you dampen...

You don't need a cap because they DON'T DO ANYTHING.

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hmm quick link to why to dampen page?

and hmm, ok well why was one just recommended to me?

anyways, should i even be bothered by dampening?

edit-

the car is a 2002 honda civic si if that helps at all.

Edited by ArrizX

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hmm quick link to why to dampen page?
There's a tutorial in the Speakers section of CA.com that might help. Basically you're adding mass to the panels to keep them from vibrating, a very good thing.
and hmm, ok well why was one just recommended to me?

Because there's a lot of misinformation floating around out there.

I have a hatch back, not a trunk, so I dont need to dampen anything for the subs.

I'm not sure I follow that logic at all...

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Discussion on Capacitors & charging systems

My Project Log for an example of deadening

You mass deaden to:

1) Reduce panel resonance

2) Lower the noise floor

3) Reduce NVH (noise, vibration & harshness)

Just because you have a hatch does not mean you do not need to deaden it ;)

You can also heavily reduce 2 & 3 through the use of high density foam (ensolite, etc) as it forms a noise barrier.

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I'd give every panel on that vehicle atleast 2 coats of deadener, and fill in the cracks with some expanding foam. 1300w of sub will really shake things, and in a hatch that means it will be louder throughout the car-instead of just the trunk. I'd do it all, floor and ceiling included. It'll make all the difference in the end if you mean to keep the car. These guys aren't just telling you for the fun of it ;)

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hmm quick link to why to dampen page?

and hmm, ok well why was one just recommended to me?

anyways, should i even be bothered by dampening?

edit-

the car is a 2002 honda civic si if that helps at all.

Here are my truck doors, all done on an extreme budget.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...ic=6582&hl=

If a cap was recommended to you by someone, you should ignore the rest of the advice they gave you.

If you don't use any form of dampening you should really spend way less money on your gear as you are sort of throwing money out the window. In particular an 02 civic is a rattletrap and needs serious help. :doit:

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ugh chit i wish i knew all that when buying.

well i just cant strip my interior and throw sheets upon sheets.

i just wanted to do it on a very minimal basis around the speakers.

and for whoever didnt get my logic about not needing to dampen the hatch part, its because there is no trunk lid and latch to rattle. the hatch part wont rattle.

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I read about those caps but I thought they were still good for your alternator life, in particular a stock/stressed one?

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well i just cant strip my interior and throw sheets upon sheets.
If it's a lease, it's not like they're going to rip apart the door panels and check. If you do a clean job it's undetectable, until you tap the door panel :)
the hatch part wont rattle.

Loyd's Aveo showed me that hatches can rattle just as nicely as any trunk will.

but I thought they were still good for your alternator life, in particular a stock/stressed one?

If anything, they'll provide just another load for the alternator to charge...the power needs to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is the alternator(s).

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jimj your posts along with ///m5 and aneon makes it so hard to argue with you guys....

fudge i hate when people know their chit so good... LOL

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Alternators just look pretty...... thats it. And on top of that if you dont install them right and hide wires good and stuff they just make everything look like crap, crap that can be easily prevented.

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Alternators just look pretty...... thats it. And on top of that if you dont install them right and hide wires good and stuff they just make everything look like crap, crap that can be easily prevented.

I'm assuming you mean Capacitors and if that is the case, I agree

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Well I bought a cap for $15 a while back, a 1f. I don't plan on an alternator but will only have a kicker 700.5 running 4 12" IB. This is just for music and I only pound it for a song or two. Was thinking of mounting a booster pack in there at this power level if it dims, could have a 'portable power source' in my trunk, lol, and assume I don't have to vent it. Funny part is they are cheaper than new caps.

Anyway, I read it should help my alternator live but wonder if I should have bothered. I like extra batteries myself, but I'm tight on room with this car. With the IB baffle and one 5ch amp it takes up little room so far....when I finish screwing it in there. Otherwise I'll toss the cap if it does not help because yes, it will be a pain to mount nice and it didn't come with a mount.

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It will help, until the first bass note finishes. Cap's are more of a buffer than anything. If you have one large burst of bass pulling so much out of your electrical system, that is when a cap comes into play. A decent burst of bass will completely drain the capacitor. That said, capacitors take a little while to charge....so if you are playing loud bass none stop, the cap will then become useless cause it cant pull power fast enough. By doing this, it is causing an even larger strain on your system by pulling needed power to it. So, IMHO, you may end up doing more harm than good by getting a cap. Just my 2 cents though....

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...capacitors take a little while to charge....so if you are playing loud bass none stop, the cap will then become useless cause it cant pull power fast enough. By doing this, it is causing an even larger strain on your system by pulling needed power to it. So, IMHO, you may end up doing more harm than good by getting a cap. Just my 2 cents though....

Quoting for truth.

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