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Wow. Do you sit there any stare at your speakers, or even the parameters as the other so called audiophiles on this forum or do you properly install them and listen to them as they were intended? I personally like to listen to my speakers, and could care less what they look like. When was the last time you could hear a speaker by looking at it? Troll stop trollin' Simply asking for the parameters over user bias is not a slap in the face for blues.. it's how the speakers will react, T/S within reason do not lie.

I'm a LOT farther south than you are. Ice here is RARE. Cold weather here is RARE. You can't just go dumping copious amounts of water in the road and not expect there to be a problem. They are causing a hazard. If there were "copioup amounts of water" in the street, it would have been clearly evident and you should have driven accordingly.

Have you ever hit ice before? Do you understand what happens when your tires hit ice? From the way you posted, it doesn't seem like this is the case. When my tires hit the ice, they began to spin. Now, keep in mind that my tires are spinning. So when I hit dry pavement, and my traction returned, my car accelerated uncontrollably. This is what sent me over the curb and into a light pole. I turned left onto the street where several apartment complexes are located. Not 50-ft from the turn is when I hit the ice. Everyone who knows me knows I drive SLOW. I was doing MAYBE 25mph, if that. I would honestly have had to been in a full acceleration to have been going any faster, which I most definitely was not. Also, I did check the weather. I knew it was going to be cold as shit. I also knew it wasn't going to rain meaning there shouldn't be ice on the ground However, I don't have control of an apartment complexes sprinkler system to shut it off when it may freeze. That is THEIR responsibility and hence why I claim negligence on their part. One, I live in NW IN, so I am very familiar with adverse weather conditions. Two, when on ice and then going onto pavement where you get traction your car will not accelerate rapidly like what would cause your issue, especially if you had traction control and it was on. The traction control would have stopped the wheel spin since it was not relative to the front wheels. How do you explain that one? Are you going to sue Ford for the traction control malfunctioning. If you had common sense you would have realized your tires were spinning with a loss of traction and let off the gas instead of staying on it though the ice and onto the pavement again which is what caused your "rapid acceleration." BTW, if that thing got up to 25mph in 50 feet, you had your foot to the floor. Come on guy. 50 feet after a turn in an apartment complex going 25mph. . . That's just idiotic. BTW, you do know that the car's computer keeps a record of things such as throttle positions and wheel speeds and what not? Just think about it. Sprinkler or no sprinkler, it is the DRIVER'S RESPONSIBILITY to be aware of all driving conditions at all time. Black ice or not, this is not the fault of the apartment complex.

i kno im impatient. one of my worst qualities. lol. pics.....(of all my front and rear stages) Kenwood HD545U BOSS ZED amp Rear fill Alpine Type R 5x7 Front Stage Bravox Carbon Fiber 6.5 comps. waiting on 8ga kit for amp and 0ga for big 3....

It is. This is simply a logical discussion with a few having their own personal input. It is nothing more than a discussion of of objectivity versus subjectivity.

I'm glad to hear you are okay, but this is nobody's fault but your own. Man up. Are you kidding me that you are going to blame your own negligence on someone's inability to check a weather forecast or not dump water into the street? It's evident from your first post you were driving far too fast and not for the conditions. Use this as a learning experience. Seriously.

JUST IN CASE I HAVENT SAID IT YET... KCB FTMFW ! THIS WOULD NOT BE POSSIBLE IF NOT FOR HIM AND TWITT !

It will be well worth the wait.

JOSH LOVIN CHOC SEKS ! tripple baffle SEKS ! MORE SEKS this pic right here is the life saver... flush mounted with as additional ring on the inside. groove and flush mount lock sub into place !!!! no guess work as far as lining them up. also screw holes are place so that there arent anymore tight places to try n fit a drill in. also the additional ring on the inside serves as the seal against the surround for air tight seal of sealed section. FN GANGSTER IS ALL I CAN SAY ABOUT THIS.... THIS IS THE BRIGHTEST IDEA IN CAR AUDIO SINCE IVE BEEN ON THIS FORUM

Most audio equipment dies for one simple reason. Most people push their equipment beyond its limits. Whether it is the amplifier, subwoofer or full range speakers, clipping is the number one cause of failure. To prevent clipping, use this tutorial. To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker, then find the square root of that number. If you are using an amplifier that has an RMS rating of more than your speaker(s) can handle/rated for, then use the RMS rating of the speaker (instead of the RMS of the amplifier) to determine the voltage to set your amp to. This is also referred to as gaining down. Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V Again, that was only an example, use the ratings of your amp to figure that out. Setting the Gain(s) To set the gain(s), you need two things: 1. A DMM (digital multi-meter) that is capable of measuring AC voltage (needs to be able to measure up to a range of 200V). 2. A test tone CD to use to set the gains at the correct setting. Now, to set the gain(s): 1. Start the vehicle, and pop the test tone CD in the head unit. 2. DO NOT hook up the sub(s) or speaker(s) to the amplifier while doing this, just leave the outputs unused at this time. 3. Now, time to set up the head unit. a. If the loudest you listen to your music at on a regular basis is 22/35 with bass @ +3 and treble @ 0 with MX (or any other sound processor) on, use those settings. NEVER turn the headunit above 3/4 of the maximum volume. b. Remember to have the car turned on. c. If you want to use bass boost on a sub amp, set it prior to setting the gains on the amp and use the center frequency of the bass boost (45 Hz for most amps) as your test tone. d. Please remember that if you have a subwoofer volume control on the headunit and/or a bass knob for the amplifier, set it to the maximum before you set the gains on the sub amp. 4. Take the leads from the DMM and but them on the outputs from the amp. 5. Set the gain so that the outputs of the amplifier equal the voltage you found above. This is a MUST. Here is JL Audio tutorial on their site: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/Input_Sen...ensitivity.html Here is where you can download some test tones for system testing/gain setting: http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/ http://www.eminent-tech.com/music/multimediatest.html For test tones higher than 80Hz, download this program and you can create your own: Adobe Audition Trial Version It is best to use 50 Hz tone for a sub amp (unless you have bass boost, use the frequency that is boosted as the tone), and a 1kHz tone for a full-range amp. This is a good way to set the gains, but if you have access to an oscilloscope, by all means use it. Then you can set the gains to their absolute maximum as you can see when the amplifier clips. If you are wondering what exactly clipping is, and what it looks like, read this: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm If you have any questions about this, post up, I

I was recommend 120 sq inch of port, and I am using 100 sqinch. Will be trying other options thou....Also how did you came to the result of 257.69 sqinch ??? Also Steve Meade is using 150 sq inch of port on a 20 cuft enclosure. So I designed it on its line !!!! For two 18's? or is that each 100 in^2? Now if it's 200 in^2 total then you're a little low seeing how 260 is the minimum recommended port area. .. but if it's 100 for both woofers then you're seriously choking the woofers off. The "rule-of-thumb" about for every cube you multiply it by 16 in^2 is extremely inaccurate and deplorable at best. Vance Dickason's method of obtaining port area, dv - is the required diameter of the port in inches. Fb - is the tuning frequency of your enclosure in Hertz. Vd - is the volume displaced by the driver (in cubic meters) traveling through it's full excursion (peak-to-peak). To figure out Vd for a speaker, find the Sd value for your driver in the table below, and multiply that number times the Xmax (in meters) of your speaker.

Sorry for jumping back into this thread but I would like to know that if there is a cut out hole between the enclosure and the door pannel ?? like where the stock speaker use to be ... or something ?? Have you measured that door / area for what we talked about ?? will they fit with a slight diagonal direction, kinda like how they are now ??

M5, sir would you please tell us, If it was your ride, how would you set it up ??? Bassahaulic, I give up bro ... I gave my suggestions, I hope it helps a little. Thanks, Randal ... I just wanted the say thank you again for these kind words. If you need me, you know where to find me. oh yea ... M5///, if you must point out my mistakes, you could atleast spell my name correctly (its on every one of my post) ...

Looks good... except for the fact that you would actually need around 257.69 in^2 of port.. and you have almost 1/3 of that. If you were to triple your port you could expect more output.. right now your essentially putting the woofers into a leaky sealed box

Let me guess ... If you've seen one sub, you've seen them all. or maybe if its not a pure 10 in. "monster" SPL sub, its not worth a krap ... huh ... Sir, I believe in your theory here about as much as I would believe that the chick on M5///'s signature would actually have anything to do with him ...

I hate how everyone is saying that "you should have been more cautious and looked out for the ice" but the thing is, it seems like they have never driven over black ice, you NEVER see black ice until it's to late, iv been in a similar situation. It is somthing that you never want hapening

You must be from Russia in 1970. LOL!!! This is America. Ill do what I want Thankyou!

I also have as many domains as I want. And will continue to post what I want when I want. You couldnt stop it if you wanted to. LOL. But at least your in charge!!! LOL

Well I thought of one way for you to stop me! Which I mean no harm to this forum . You just have your ideas that prevent you from being normal. Shut down the forum thats all I could figure. But you are in charge! Feed your Ego! Do it! LOL

C is for COOKIE