Leaderboard

A lot has been said, but don't forget about connections. Poor connections are the number one source of heat due to increased resistance. This can be as simple as a loose screw, poorly crimped terminal, or a bad solder joint. Always use the proper tools and techniques and re-check your connections often. Keep in mind, you have so many dissimilar metals and this is THE recipe for corrosion.

Best design of the Icon to date. 1000 -1500rms daily on a well designed enclosure. Stay with the 1cf for the 10" net. Actually ran 2300rms on a 15" for over a year with not one issue. Truck engine died and sub still lives on!

Not enough to be noticed. Just measure length as centerline of the bend same as a square or rectangle port length. The actual length of a set port area determines the tuning & the opening size (port area) determines the port velocity / air resistance.

One of my favorite subs... Stick with 1cf3..... try and get the port velocity down to at least 8%

Thanks Aaron. I'm planning on running it on the smaller side with a 1 cube net ported box. I read if I go smaller on the box that it could take more power, but does that necessarily mean I need more power for it to sound good, or is that just a benefit?

Ten years later, this still stands. Any reviews you guys have from your experience with the products we carry will be a nice help. I am tempted to do a barter system, reviews in trade for a little SSA Store credit.

You could have cancellation issues, but you will only be able to find this out via measurements. The issue here is once you load the enclosure and driver into the vehicle, the cabin becomes another air spring on the driver. When you open a window or door, the pressure is reduced or relieved and the driver can move further, which means more air is excited which means more boom boom. Some systems are just so ridiculous, that they overcome this affect with sheer power. It's akin to overcoming speed limited drag by increasing power.

My astro had no difference with door open or door closed. The 8 18 icons in the 4th order. Thing was a freak of nature.

Resistance=Heat The question really is how long? How long will a low note being played at full tilt CONTINUALLY take to overheat the amplifier internals. How long will said amp last in such conditions. Not very, and that's why comp guys are rough on amp's. On the other hand, music is dynamic. The amplifier will not see those conditions. Also you are only moving the hot spot to the next weakest link, which is the alternator. That's why comp guys be running 4+ of them. Heat (resistance) is an electrical device's worst enemy. For every 10 degrees Celsius the life span of the internal components is cut in half. I can only imagine how much you are shortening the lifespan of your amplifiers with the way you have it wired now. If you want to be real technical, the electrician rule of thumb is only run wiring to 80% of its rating. So figure out how long your run of wire is and add 20% to the total amp rating for comfort... If you want to get technical.