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Found 11 results

  1. THX_Elite

    20160509-011243.jpg

    From the album: '97 Grand Cherokee album

    Upgraded my 4 channel amp from the ZRX1000.4 to the BRX1200.4, what a beast! Still running the BRX 1600.1D. Here is a sexy night view

    © THX_Elite

  2. THX_Elite

    Rear View

    From the album: '97 Grand Cherokee album

    Done with install! Now for fine tuning :)

    © THX_Elite

  3. kaydennicholson

    Never is Enough, What Next?

    Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big three, but no dimming or anything at the moment setup wired to 1 ohm What I want: to be significantly more powerful but still have great sound quality (on the highway) to still be able to get quality bass also at lower power levels (when crusing through the city) What can I do to get from where I am to where I want to be? 1. will more power to the Q12s make a significant difference? or would the difference in power be miniscule as the subs may be close to peak performance at 2400? 2. Would the BTLs be the way to go to get that BOOM? heard they need a boatload of power to actually make them much different from the Q line **just from what I have read, no personal experience** ANY/ALL advice is appreciated. know how to help me out? please do! Think I'm doing something horribly wrong? tell me! P.S. installed my first system 5 yeas ago and have done 4 since, not a bass expert but know more than the average Joe
  4. Figured I should start a build log since I've gone through so much trial and error in getting this stereo to sound good. I'm already done with most things but I did take pictures along the way so i'll get that all uploaded when i get photobucket or imgur figured out. I bought my passat almost a year ago, the weekend after black Friday to be exact, and knew immediately that it needed some love in the bass department. I had a rockford p-300-12 powered enclosure lying around that i once had mounted in a big self-propelled sprayer that i basically lived in for 3 summers, threw that in along with a rockford loc, rockford rca's, and some ebay 4ga cca to get it powered. That sounded awesome for the average non-basshead and would suffice until i found a real solution.... Did some searching and found this great place! After searching and reading here for hours I decided on a Fi BL 12 for a sub and a BRZ1200.1 hifonics amp to power it since i'm a poor college student and can't afford a bc, aq or saz lol I built a vented box for the BL that was 2.68ft^3 tuned to 28.5hz After I finished the box I had to stuff foam above the headliner near the upper brake light and under the rear deck to stop some rattling. Installed some dampener (dynamat and ebay stuff) to the trunk lid, under the trunk carpet on the floor, and rear deck from inside the trunk. dampener helped a ton. After the substage I realized that the stock front stage was not going to cut it... I knew that I wanted to fill some of the lacking upper bass frequencies with some volume so I was looking for the biggest components I could get for a decent price. Ended up getting the xr1800p components from Kenwood. They've got a big 7" woofer and an oversized 1 3/16" tweeter with external crossovers. currently the set is being powered by a dusty old pioneer 4-channel amp GM-x524. I'm not perfectly satisfied with the front stage for now since the amp likes to protect at high volumes and I've got some fuzzy distortion from the tweeters in certain frequencies. once i change the amp to the GM-d8604 class d 4-channel from pioneer I think it will get much better as I have the older GM-d9500f version in my s10 that never protects and has no distortion until extreme volume. also ran another 4ga run of cca to the trunk and a distribution block when I added the second amp. Also changed out the stock HU for a Pioneer Avh2600bt touchscreen unit which is fantastic for the money. I decided that the box was tuned too low so I chopped 10.5" off the port giving me a 2.88ft^3 net volume tuned to 32.2hz and was much happier! Now for the real reason I'm starting this build log.. I'm going to try a 6th order bandpass to keep this 'new to me' low end rumble and get back the awesome upper frequency volume from my mtx square sub in my s10 for when i want to blast the 50hz Flux Pavilion bass cannon! Much more to follow, including pics for the above^ stuff!
  5. ginter777

    NEED HELP WITH HDS315

    Ok hey guys, im new to this forum. Im guessing you guys are type experts on subs if not, any information helps. I have a 07 BMW X5 and I just bought a 15" Soundqubed subwoofer and a x14 brutus hifonics 1500 watt amp I want to wire to 1ohms, and im doing it also to my stock head unit. My battery is in my trunk so I don't have to wire a lot to the front of the car. Also wiring with 4 gauge. I was wondering what would the dimensions be for my box? length, depth width? volume? what could my sub displacement be? and my port displacement? Im thinking also 4.5 cubic net tuned 34-38hz please let me know give me ideas, info, anything thank you so much GS
  6. PhilHef

    Amp and alternator questions

    Hey guys i think I'm in the right area of the forum to post this but if I'm not, my bad. I bought two Fi BL 15s fully loaded with the daily option a few months back. Originally I was going to buy a Sundown or Cresendo amp but money is tight so I've been looking into the Hifonics BE 2500.1. I know they have a bad name, but I currently own an older series Hifonics BXi 2008d and honestly love the amp. Don't get me wrong I've had it repaired about 4 times but all due to inefficient power supply. The new series is CEA compliant and Steve Meade proved they do put out the power advertised. With that being said, do you guys think a 240 amp Mechman Alt could power the 2500 rms amp? I don't plan on running the second battery just yet, but I'm also not trying to fully power it right now. And another question, what if the amp is rated at 14.4 ohms, should the Alt be the same or a little bit higher? Thanks for any input!
  7. Hey guys, so i'm at a stump with my electrical in my car. I have two sundown SA-15's in my Honda CRV being powered by a hifonics HFI 1500d. I would love to upgrade my amplifier and get about 2500 watts to the subs but my voltage is too low for that type of power. I have been searching for a compatible high output alternator with the CRV for a while now, but have had no luck. Also the alternator is located under the engine so I would have to pay a shop to go in there and install it. All lots of money i don't have to spend. Are there any other ways i can give my electrical system a boost to maintain that 13.8+ to power a higher wattage amplifier? I have already done the big 3 fyi and have a kinetic hc 1800 in the front. thanks
  8. This topic is really for my new upcoming build which will be two Sundown Audio SA-12s on a Hifonics BRX 2400.1D sealed off from the trunk. The box is currently being built by Dave The Box Guy, it will have three different tunings with interchangeable ports (20Hz/28Hz/45Hz). For now, while I sit and wait, I am going to post my current set up just to show you all some of the work I have done so far. I don't have all the pictures since some things were done a little while ago such as, deadening, changing my door speakers, wiring etc. but I will eventually tear some things off and show you how I installed everything. Here it is.... Current build: Head unit: Kenwood KDC-X995 w/ iPad Mini Equalizer: Clarion EQS746 Mids/Highs: 4 Infinity Kappa 62.9I (wanted to keep stock look so they are in the stock location of the doors) Subwoofer: 1 15" Sundown Zv3 D2 3.3ft3 enclosure tuned to 33hz (Sub Up, Port to the side) Mids/Highs amp: Hifonics Zeus ZXi80.4 Subwoofer amp: Hifonics Brutus BRX 2400.1D Electrical: Stock 150A alternator, XS Power D6500, BIG 3 to come soon Deadener: Second Skin Damplifier ***The only thing that will change with the new build will be the sub stage which is listed in the first paragraph, everything will most likely stay the same... for now lol*** This isn't my actual car, but this is what it looks like completely stock on the outside.. Here are some pictures of my car after some cheap mods! Tint is %30 and hubcaps plasti-dipped! Tinting my tail lights soon! Don't have a pic before the de-badge so here is the after.. If you can tell I replaced the stock antenna with a "shorty" On to XS POWER, haven't done the BIG 3 yet but that is on the list of things to do.. Here is the stock battery under the hood. I already ran the 1/0 gauge wire through and plan on shortening the wire to the fuse soon as well. I will try and get pics of how I ran it later.. Look how small the stock battery is compared to the XS Power D6500!! Finally installed, it was a b**** to get into that small space.
  9. Hey everyone, i'll get straight to the point. I'm selling my Fi BL 18" Sub in a 29hz box 40" long 17" high 24" deep (not 100% positive on this I will have to double check) along with my Hifonics Brutus brz2400.1D amp. It's a dvc-2 ohm sub. I bought this sub around late January. I've had it installed in my car for only 2-3 weeks. It was an impulse buy and if I didn't desperately need the cash I would keep it without a doubt. The amp and all the wiring was bought around the same time as the sub from sonicelectronix and I paid for a 3-year warranty. The power and ground cables are 1/0awg knukonceptz and the rca cables, remote wire, and speaker wire are part of a kit I got awhile pack from elite audio. I have 2 inline fuse holders with a 300a fuse and a 150a fuse. A couple ring terminals as well. The dust cap is blue and I have the cooling and flat wind options and the daily option selected. $433 with shipping, ~$100 for the wires, $300 for the amp with the warranty and I paid $200 for the box which has fiberglass insulation. I have the original box Fi sent the sub in and the amp. I don't know how much it would cost to ship a box that big, so without the box I would sell it all as a package for $650. quickest way to contact me to discuss anything would be texting me @ 574-323-3166. Thank you.
  10. Make sure you check out my build log and comment, the link for my log is in my sig! My wires are extremely messy because I am getting ready for my new build.. Anyways, click on the pic to see my vid and thanks for looking. EDIT: Found out how to post youtube videos now.. http://youtu.be/T7WcC0U24Sw
  11. I currently have a 2005 single cab Dodge Ram 1500. I recently ordered a Sundown Audio SA-8 D4 v.1. I have a 1k Hifonics Mono Amp i was hoping to push this sub with. Im having issues getting a box design. I built my own and friends boxes but only merely guessing needed airspace and very unfamiliar with tuning. I under stand its got to do with the driver, box volume and port length and size but beyond that im a noob. From reading around I've seen that these subs need about .5-.75 cubs of box at about 30 to 40hz? My first box attempt was around .6cubs but the port was about 1"x8" and only 27" long which im almost positive is incorrect because the sub will not even do any notes below 40hz with tones. I need some assistance on where i should start box wise and if it would be possible to fit 2 of these subs in the back of my truck. To give and idea of what the space is like I currently have a 4.cub box with 2kicker 12's behind the seats. the box is around 40+"x11x14. Im sure there's room is mainly the videos from YouTube with these subs with ports bigger than the actual box space is what scares me. I appreciate the future help.
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