Buss Bars

[shizzzon 461]

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle.

I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering.

Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar.

This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right.

Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc...

they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down.

I found a site that was selling a 2ft long buss bar for $56... really need about 3.5ft but 3ft will do.

So, what do i do?

[jonbearsmt 919]

i know guys that just get copper strips and just dill holes where ya needem

[shizzzon 461]

that's basically it?

I just got done readin somethin and found a good supplier

They sell 1\4" thick silver plated but full copper source in practically any length.

I'm "assuming" 1\4" thick is good for 500A, wouldnt see why it wouldnt be.

I'm still seeing if i can find a way to run both power and ground bars but i know i can do ground.

[jonbearsmt 919]

that's basically it?

I just got done readin somethin and found a good supplier

They sell 1\4" thick silver plated but full copper source in practically any length.

I'm "assuming" 1\4" thick is good for 500A, wouldnt see why it wouldnt be.

I'm still seeing if i can find a way to run both power and ground bars but i know i can do ground.

i just used wire for mine.. i linked them togather with 0 gauge wire... i did want the risk of anything laying or falling onto the buse bars

[Tirefryr 1,742]

MAke sure you silver plate the ends after cutting or use a good coating or dielectric grease on it. Actually, what I've done in the past is apply my terminals and then paint it, then remove the terminals and you have perfectly protected bar and terminals.

[shizzzon 461]

"If" i had to cut the length shorter for whatever reason, what's the purpose of coating the ends?

I'm assuming when i go to drill the holes out i need i dont have to treat it with anything there do i?

And i was thinking about the paint idea. Spray paint or actual paintbrush paint?

I can check conductivity with multimeter to ensure correct thickness applied, i'm just curious as to which paint method is faster that can get the job done.

OH and while i'm typing, check this out and let me know what u think-

There is JUST enough room for me to run 3 HC1400s in my car.

They set in the back of the car, next to rear bumper. They are all turned sideways like a gigantic long wall of batts.

So, you know that looking on top from left to right, the + and - terminals are perfectly in line with each other .

This is what i have proposed-

Using side post terminals on the ground and running buss bar that way. For the power terminal post, i was trying to find a way to raise the post higher than the ground so i can elevate a power bar across the ground, see what i am saying?

I am looking at these, i assume these would work, right?

I need to use a small length ground post and a post on the + that can elevate it higher than the ground's top post...

I was thinking of using the small top piece as the ground's post to hold the side post in and the larger piece as the positive post to elevate high then run the buss bar on it and secure it with the top small piece.

I might have to contact Kinetik about this to see if the small piece will even fit in the batt with the side post, it may not even be long enough to hold the side post terminal in place.

[shizzzon 461]

oh and bigjon, i might just end up doing what u did just for the positive side.

I might just do that but still buss bar the ground because for my app, it would help me a LOT.

I got 1 3/0 ran from front to rear. Then 1/0 to each batt and 1/0 to each amp.

that little 12v safety block i always talk about on here from cadence...

Well i dragged it out of the closet to look at it since i havent used it in years.

It's got 1 1/0 in but 2 4awg out ONLY!, no 1.0 out?!?! ahhhh!!

Since it's circuit controlled, i cant' run it backwards so unless i run 1/0 out from batt to fuse holder to 2 4awg in distro block to 1/0 out into amp.. i can't use the block....

That is so much freakin convertin, i might just not use it at all..

Hell NONE OF YOU ALL USE IT, hehe, i should get by without it.... HOPEFULLY.

I won't be gettin my 300a alt for a few weeks from now.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

The paint will be for corrosion protection. Bare copper will quickly start corroding if not plated or protected in another manner. Make sure you use a good dielectric grease as well on you're connections. Both copper and aluminum start an instantaneous corrosion reaction when touching dissimilar metals.

[shizzzon 461]

ok, i'm gonna get silver plated 1\4" copper bar.

I put this grease on every hole i insert a bolt through and i also paint it... for me enough times so it becomes non conductive on the outside for safety reasons.

If i order too much and need to cut some off, i paint the part that is cut off.

That grease is a little $$$ but i can do it. $30 for 3oz!

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Look for Ideal Noalox.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/produ...&submit.y=0

[shizzzon 461]

alrighty. interesting info.

I guess this goes on the same basis as anti-corrosion spray for battery terminals correct?

Speaking of that, can i use that to put on all my battery terminals or should i just get the typical spray from Auto Zone?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

The Noalox is great. It will work on anything.

We used it extensively when I was building power generation units, in fact GE made us use it.

[shizzzon 461]

alright cool man, now you just made me use it