Amp for HAT L61-2

[dlink 0]

Amp for Hybrid Audio L61-2 set? L6 - 4 ohms; L1 - 8 ohms

L1 max : 100w

L6 max : 250w

[JimJ 11]

How much do you have to spend?

Tons of good 4-channels out there...

[dlink 0]

Do I need a 4 channel? I figured with the L6 midrange/midbass in the kickpanel and the L1 tweets, I would only need a 2 channel.

Trying to stay around 200 US$ as I'll need another for my sub. I looked at the Sundown SAX 100.2, but a tad out of my price range at the moment at 219 US$.

Unless there is a consensus that I can't beat the quality of a 100.2 at 219, then I might consider it.

The RF T400-2 looked interesting also. Rockford is a name that comes up a lot, so it can't be all bad, also I can get one on ebay pretty easily.

/edit

For what it is worth, HU is Alpine CDA-9887

Edited November 5, 2008 by dlink

[///M5 2,833]

You definitely need a 4 channel, one channel for each driver.

Well 2 2chn's would be fine so I guess you don't "need" a four channel.

You could use a little 2 chn for the tweets and then a big four channel for the midranges and the other two chn bridged for your sub. Probably the route I'd go, but it depends on what sub you choose.

[dlink 0]

Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers.

I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

Edited November 5, 2008 by dlink

[JimJ 11]

I don't think you'd be making a bad decision with the Q, but have you looked into the W6v2?

[johnecon2001 82]

Just drop the BL off your list right now. You're running HAT drivers, run a sub that will blend with them

[dlink 0]

I don't think you'd be making a bad decision with the Q, but have you looked into the W6v2?

No, because I am an idiot and read another thread wrong and until about 10 seconds ago thought the W6 was the SPL sub. :-/ I thought the w7 was the SQ, which is why I was so interested in it. /slaps head. I have also heard good things about the RE SE. And I can get a 10SE for ~130 on ebay. Half of what the Q and w6 cost. ikesound has the SE12 for 99$ !!

Just drop the BL off your list right now. You're running HAT drivers, run a sub that will blend with them

Consider it dropped. I have no spine

Edited November 6, 2008 by dlink

[dlink 0]

I got offered a trade of the following:

I maybe interested in trade. I have a phoenix gold tantrum 250.2 2 channel and a phoenix gold tantrum 400.4 4 channel both new condition.

Opinions? I'll search in the morning. I'm a bit tipsy atm

[Tmax98 3]

what about the icon just throwing that out there

[fritosaregood 0]

Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers.

I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

im using an alpine pdx 5 and it puts out lots of clean power, and it hardly takes up space, but it gets hot,. i paid 600 for mine, way to much, but thats the only one i could get, then a week or two later, bam the store on here throws up some of the pdx 5's for $369

[Adrian_D 520]

I don't think you'd be making a bad decision with the Q, but have you looked into the W6v2?

I'm with Jim. Quite a step up from the W7, as far as sound goes, from my experience (only heard the 13inch versions).

Also, the PDX5 is a nice option.

[JimJ 11]

I got offered a trade of the following:

I maybe interested in trade. I have a phoenix gold tantrum 250.2 2 channel and a phoenix gold tantrum 400.4 4 channel both new condition.

Opinions? I'll search in the morning. I'm a bit tipsy atm

I have both the larger 2-channel version, the 500.2, and the 1200.1 monoblock, they've worked great for the last five years

[dlink 0]

Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers.

I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

im using an alpine pdx 5 and it puts out lots of clean power, and it hardly takes up space, but it gets hot,. i paid 600 for mine, way to much, but thats the only one i could get, then a week or two later, bam the store on here throws up some of the pdx 5's for $369

How hot, and after how long? And hypothetically

CEA-2006 Power Rating

• CEA-2006 Power Rating (4Ohm@14.4 V =1% THD+N), S/N 76dBA (Ref: 1W into 4Ohm & 2Ohm for Mono ch.):
  
• 75W x 4 + 300W x 1
  RMS Power Ratings
  

• Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 4Ω for 4ch.) 75W x 4
  
• Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz @ 2Ω for Mono ch.) 300W x 1
  

So that would be enough for

• L1 Pmax : 100w (8 ohm) Pnom: 7w
  
• L6 Pmax : 250w (4 ohm) Pnom: 60w
  
• w610: Pmax: 600w (dual 4 ohm) Poptimum: 300-400
  

?

The reason I ask is because the JL site has the following image

Which says to me that the optimum wattage is around 300, which means the PDX will be putting out its max wattage for that channel on a continuous basis.

Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that.

This would explain the heat issue, but can this reduce the lifespan of the amp?

/edit

the JL Org Slash is even weaker

Rated Power Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Rated Power Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Rated Power Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

PA1100.5

Power

Power Specs 125 watts x 4 (@ 2 ohm) and 600 watts x 1 (@ 1 ohm) Continuous

or

80 watts x 4 (@ 4 ohm) and 280 watts x (@ 4 ohm)

Edited November 6, 2008 by dlink

[dlink 0]

Kicker zx700.5 looks like a good one too.

RMS Power Rating:

4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel

2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel

4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)

Except that it says it is a class D. I know most mono are D for the sub, but I can't tell if the front four are D also, or AB.

/edit

Either way, it's 20+ inches long, so won't easily fit under the seat.

Edited November 6, 2008 by dlink

[lee 2]

Should be class A/B for the front channels

[JimJ 11]

Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that.

And considering that 600W is in the zone marked in red in the manual, why would you want it to?

What it can "handle" is different than what's optimal.

[dlink 0]

Right now the M5 IXL 10 looks real appealing, the only problem is that it needs power, so I'd have to get it its own amp. The 10w6 would still be cheaper in the long run.

Before shipping I'm looking at the following combos and prices. The Fi Q would give me the same issues. I failed to notice it would take 1000w rms

JL w6 275

PDX-5 360

635

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.100 289

MRMP-M1000 250

704

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.150 375

MRMP-M1000 250

790

[fritosaregood 0]

The pdx5 doesnt get super hot, is ok to touch, not too too hot, and it doesnt seem to affect the amp, i would say after 10 mins it gets to the temp it stays at, but ive drove for hours at times with it on 1/2 to 3/4 volume and it never shuts off, just stays warm.

the actual output of mine is 105 rms x 4 in 4 ohm and 367 rms x1 in 4 or 2 ohm.

Edited November 7, 2008 by fritosaregood

[dlink 0]

Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that.

And considering that 600W is in the zone marked in red in the manual, why would you want it to?

What it can "handle" is different than what's optimal.

Yea, I screwed that reading up. Realized it too late to edit.

The pdx5 doesnt get super hot, is ok to touch, not too too hot, and it doesnt seem to affect the amp, i would say after 10 mins it gets to the temp it stays at, but ive drove for hours at times with it on 1/2 to 3/4 volume and it never shuts off, just stays warm.

the actual output of mine is 105 rms x 4 in 4 ohm and 367 rms x1 in 4 or 2 ohm.

367 pretty close to 400, which is right at the top of optimum, so we might be looking at my setup.

HAT L6 + HAT L1 + JL 10w6 + Alpine PDX-5

[lee 2]

Right now the M5 IXL 10 looks real appealing, the only problem is that it needs power, so I'd have to get it its own amp. The 10w6 would still be cheaper in the long run.

Before shipping I'm looking at the following combos and prices. The Fi Q would give me the same issues. I failed to notice it would take 1000w rms

JL w6 275

PDX-5 360

635

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.100 289

MRMP-M1000 250

704

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.150 375

MRMP-M1000 250

790

Myself and others have applied these subs with less than rated power, with phenominal results

[JimJ 11]

Right now the M5 IXL 10 looks real appealing, the only problem is that it needs power, so I'd have to get it its own amp. The 10w6 would still be cheaper in the long run.

Before shipping I'm looking at the following combos and prices. The Fi Q would give me the same issues. I failed to notice it would take 1000w rms

JL w6 275

PDX-5 360

635

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.100 289

MRMP-M1000 250

704

m5 IXL 165

PDX 4.150 375

MRMP-M1000 250

790

Myself and others have applied these subs with less than rated power, with phenominal results

I agree, he seems too worried about power ratings

[///M5 2,833]

WAY, for example I had 280w on my RLp (reccomended 500-1000wrms rating) and it was more than I needed.

[dlink 0]

So you think a M5 IXL would work fine on 367 RMS? If so I'll go that way and save a benjamin

[///M5 2,833]

If you truly want it to blend with the L6 it will be enough power.

And I wouldn't hesitate to get an IXL, I love mine.