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nick_19

very odd problem. help needed

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Shizzon, I love you.

Ok grounding the RCA worked. Both amps turned on, sound was crisp and clear and everything was as it should be. Tell me, What should I do so that my stereo will stay working? Thank you!!!!!!

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another thing, after u have tried what i said above, take a wire and touch the frame of the car AND one of the rca's outside shield while connected to ONLY one amp at a time and see if it does anything.

r-u thinking noise in the shielding for the rca. i was thinking the deck was cutting in and out sound's right if it worked.

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i thought this could be it, turns out it was.

All it takes is one rca line to malfunction, it can feed back through the head unit and disrupt all other lines as well as it appears is what's goin on.

that's why i said a while back in this thread if u eer got any extra rcas connected and just lyin around to pick em up as it can pick up enough interference to feed back as well.

So, how to permanently solve the problem?

Well, here's the kicker-

Even though you have swapped out HUs, we have narrowed it down to 2 things, either the HU still or the rcas.

Why am i considering the HU?

Because you are still using the same brand. As with Pioneer, their HUs have been known to do this as well.

A quick cheap simple solution would be to swap out both rcas with new ones.

If this doesnt work, you must manually ground your rcas.

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i thought this could be it, turns out it was.

If this doesnt work, you must manually ground your rcas.

could he have lost ground inside the cd player to the rca's??? if the others do not fly.

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i thought this could be it, turns out it was.

All it takes is one rca line to malfunction, it can feed back through the head unit and disrupt all other lines as well as it appears is what's goin on.

that's why i said a while back in this thread if u eer got any extra rcas connected and just lyin around to pick em up as it can pick up enough interference to feed back as well.

So, how to permanently solve the problem?

Well, here's the kicker-

Even though you have swapped out HUs, we have narrowed it down to 2 things, either the HU still or the rcas.

Why am i considering the HU?

Because you are still using the same brand. As with Pioneer, their HUs have been known to do this as well.

A quick cheap simple solution would be to swap out both rcas with new ones.

If this doesnt work, you must manually ground your rcas.

Actually, the other radio was a Kenwood Excelon, and I have had it in there for 3 years.

There are no extra RCA's anywhere. I use all 6 channels of output, and there are three sets of RCA wires in my car, with all plugged in.

Why exactly does this happen? I don't really understand the problem. I mean all I did was touch the jacket of the RCA to the amp ground, and both amps magically turned on through the original remote turn on (they wouldn't work through the turn on... only directly connected) and began playing like always... I'm just confused. Thanks for helping me out man.

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onto the technical side, i am unsure as to why this happens but it's not rare.

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So it is a SAFE solution to manually ground the jacket of the RCA wires? I mean as a 'permanent' solution?

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i thinking your running a big set up like a fosgate power 1000x1 which is like 1400 true watts with that much power you can crack solder from a pc board like in side your cd player this is why they do not suggest mounting amps to boxes etc... if you lost ground because of this you could solder the board back to gather with a heat gun. seen people do this with the xbox 360 and the red ring of death. but be careful not to burn the board. that would really suck.

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safe? If you can keep the wire on the rcas then yes but do NOt connect it to the amp's ground. If that wire ever comes loose and touches the wrong thing... thats why i dont recommend grounding it to the amp itself.

I would solder the wire onto the shield of the rcas using the highest amount of silver possible in the solder.

very briefly touch the rca shield when iron is hot. You may need to put some braid or something that wont burn between the iron and the shield so you can heat the shield up slower while melting the solder.

A quick way would be to tin your wire then just heat up the wire and let the solder flow over the shield and be done with it. I've never soldered onto the shield so if it doesnt work very well, you may need to use flux.

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i thinking your running a big set up like a fosgate power 1000x1 which is like 1400 true watts with that much power you can crack solder from a pc board like in side your cd player this is why they do not suggest mounting amps to boxes etc... if you lost ground because of this you could solder the board back to gather with a heat gun. seen people do this with the xbox 360 and the red ring of death. but be careful not to burn the board. that would really suck.

I work on xbox360s and let me tell u this-

If the board gets to the point to where it requires the use of a heat gun just to get it working again, it wont last long.. if it reaches a month, that might be a record!

Single red ring is usually an indicator to go buy the new ones so you are not proned to hardware failure.

Very few single red rings can be fixed.

Most all 3 red rings can be fixed.

NO fix will last forever. Forever meaning forever, 2 yrs is not considered forever in my book.

I do sell "preventive failure" cooling solutions but i do tell the customers who owns them that this helps but depending on your gaming habits and how the console is sitting, nothing can prevent imminent failure.

i am currently researching ways to modify the entire internal structure so i can pull the drive out of the case and use all that extra space as a massive cooling base. I am trying to keep this modification under $100 so it seems appealing.

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i thinking your running a big set up like a fosgate power 1000x1 which is like 1400 true watts with that much power you can crack solder from a pc board like in side your cd player this is why they do not suggest mounting amps to boxes etc... if you lost ground because of this you could solder the board back to gather with a heat gun. seen people do this with the xbox 360 and the red ring of death. but be careful not to burn the board. that would really suck.

I work on xbox360s and let me tell u this-

If the board gets to the point to where it requires the use of a heat gun just to get it working again, it wont last long.. if it reaches a month, that might be a record!

Single red ring is usually an indicator to go buy the new ones so you are not proned to hardware failure.

Very few single red rings can be fixed.

Most all 3 red rings can be fixed.

NO fix will last forever. Forever meaning forever, 2 yrs is not considered forever in my book.

I do sell "preventive failure" cooling solutions but i do tell the customers who owns them that this helps but depending on your gaming habits and how the console is sitting, nothing can prevent imminent failure.

i am currently researching ways to modify the entire internal structure so i can pull the drive out of the case and use all that extra space as a massive cooling base. I am trying to keep this modification under $100 so it seems appealing.

your right but awesome to hear on the cooling upgrade.

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Ok so I thought I had solved my problem, but now whenever I have the radio on and RCA's grounded, I get HORRIBLE engine noise through the speakers. I thought it was the radio, so I switched between the Kenwood and the Pioneer, and the problem occurs with both radios. So, any ideas on how to stop this? Replace RCA's? Give up? Thanks.

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engine noise can easily be seen as how it is being grounded.

I would swap out rcas but before you do, i would see who the culprit is...

It may not be every single set. Just 1 set can spoil the whole bunch.

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