Eclipse CD7200 mkii

[sqjeep 9]

ok your vehicle has a 120amp alt so if you were to get the btl and have it fully powered you are going to need a alt. Also if u can measure your trunk or if you want to have space back there to store stuff then give the measurements of what you like the box to be?? I wanna make sure the sub will not be choked.

So your parts list should look somewhat like this

Sub -- 18 BTL -- ~ $414 before shipping and extras

Amp --

Front stage --

amp --

Headunit --

Amp wiring --

Big 3 wiring --

sound deadening --

MDF --

Alt -- later

2 batteries --

Speaker wiring --

Extras --

should equal $3000

Edited August 30, 2009 by sqjeep

[Hell-Razor 0]

two Powermaster XC batteries should be enough. I know somebody that's doing 3500+ watts (on these forums at least) with a stock alt and two aux batteries.

Woofer - about 515$ including shipping

Amp -- Depends on either the AQ 2200D or the SAZ-3000D. Bot good amps but the SAZ would power the BTL better. the 2200D is about 450$ shipped.. i cant find how much a saz -3000 or a good 2500 watt amp would cost though

Front stage -- (in process of picking, probably the SS RF-60C speakers, 200$ shipped about) + amp which i wouldn't want to spend more than 250 on.

Headunit -- Still picking.

Amp wiring -- Should be cheap(er), i would think no more than 75$

Big 3 wiring -- Eh, about 30$ tops

sound deadening -- I have a bunch of sound deadener already, no need

MDF -- ...MDF?

Alt -- later, probably wont need but ill get a volt meter after all this gets installed to make sure im not dropping below what i want

2 batteries -- there about 325$ non shipped... soo 750$ tops for two?

Speaker wiring -- I have some decent gauge speaker wire and quality, i wouldn't think i would need that special of wiring for my front end.. 0 gauge though for 20? 30? feet i would say could be expensive. according to knukonceptsor whatever it is 50 feet is about 200 shipped.

Extras -- what else may i need?

My guesses so far (may be high) is 2470....err im a getting close! i hope i am high on my cost and not low.

I am planning on installing the front end, amp, head unit first though and then pay most of it off. Also I am selling my old car (anybody want a 2003 Alero, awesome condition with 90k miles? 5500$ ) So I should be able to stretch my budget to 3500$ but that's very tops.

And i almost forgot about the trunk... its like 40 x 39 x 20. enough for a btl. If I were to fill the entire trunk as a box it would be roughly 15.8 cubic feet. the btl only needs 5-10 cubic feet so im thinkin of building one about 39 x 20 x 20 so i still have a little of room left (about 7.43 cubic feet in that box) to put the batteries, amp and maybe my backpack. Just thinking. What are th benefits of having...say a 10 ft cubic feet box vs a 5? like if somebody had the room would they be better off doing a 10 cubic feet box? Or would they be alright if they just made a 5 cubic feet box and left it at that. id like to make the box as small as possible but i don't want to compromise anything like quality of sound or loudness... also i will be making this box port an external port to save room. i will probably have the port removable to replace with a smaller or bigger so that i can easily "hot swap" it if im going to a comp. (what is it a smaller port for a comp? or is it bigger? depending on a SPL or dB drag or... any kind of comp?)

Edited August 30, 2009 by Hell-Razor

[sqjeep 9]

The SAZ 3000d is a discontinued so you are only going to find that one used from somebody. or choose either the AQ 2200d or the sundown SAZ 2000D

MDF ( medium density fiberboard) this is the wood you use to bulid the subwoofer box.

Extras like little things as RCAs, ring terminals for the power and ground, inline fuse blocks, fuses, disconnects for the speakers, screws, etc

[Hell-Razor 0]

The SAZ 3000d is a discontinued so you are only going to find that one used from somebody. or choose either the AQ 2200d or the sundown SAZ 2000D

MDF ( medium density fiberboard) this is the wood you use to bulid the subwoofer box.

Extras like little things as RCAs, ring terminals for the power and ground, inline fuse blocks, fuses, disconnects for the speakers, screws, etc

The wood I already have, screw are no problem, but the rings and disconnects and whatnot i would need to get. no idea how much they cost.

[sqjeep 9]

What are th benefits of having...say a 10 ft cubic feet box vs a 5? like if somebody had the room would they be better off doing a 10 cubic feet box? Or would they be alright if they just made a 5 cubic feet box and left it at that. id like to make the box as small as possible but i don't want to compromise anything like quality of sound or loudness... also i will be making this box port an external port to save room. i will probably have the port removable to replace with a smaller or bigger so that i can easily "hot swap" it if im going to a comp. (what is it a smaller port for a comp? or is it bigger? depending on a SPL or dB drag or... any kind of comp?)

Box size is up to the user preference but i believe the rule of thumb is use the bigger box for when using less than rms and use the smaller box when running rms and higher.

port size for a comp setup is bigger and the daily is smaller. It takes a whle to fine where the car peaks cause you would have to try different tuning freq. Here is a member who did the same thing. Phi's build log

[Hell-Razor 0]

ah so if im going more than 2k rms the smaller end is alright? say like 6" or 5.25 to 5.5? (i wouldn't want to try and push anything below the 5.25 cubic feet mark for only 500 more watts). I was thinking of cutting a slit in the top to slide another board in and then secure it with special removable rubber tabs my uncle uses. i know trying to do this would create some sort of rattle, do you guys think the rattle would do anything? it would be minor i would think and most likely drowned out

[sqjeep 9]

ah so if im going more than 2k rms the smaller end is alright? say like 6" or 5.25 to 5.5? (i wouldn't want to try and push anything below the 5.25 cubic feet mark for only 500 more watts). I was thinking of cutting a slit in the top to slide another board in and then secure it with special removable rubber tabs my uncle uses. i know trying to do this would create some sort of rattle, do you guys think the rattle would do anything? it would be minor i would think and most likely drowned out

When you start to build the box I would start with a 10ft^3 box and as all the displacements are taking into account you would be near/around the 6ft^3. Displacements are things that take up area inside the box ie the port, the sub, and all bracing. As for the rubber tabs i would taking with all the vibrations they might fall out but i just guessing.

[Hell-Razor 0]

ah so if im going more than 2k rms the smaller end is alright? say like 6" or 5.25 to 5.5? (i wouldn't want to try and push anything below the 5.25 cubic feet mark for only 500 more watts). I was thinking of cutting a slit in the top to slide another board in and then secure it with special removable rubber tabs my uncle uses. i know trying to do this would create some sort of rattle, do you guys think the rattle would do anything? it would be minor i would think and most likely drowned out

When you start to build the box I would start with a 10ft^3 box and as all the displacements are taking into account you would be near/around the 6ft^3. Displacements are things that take up area inside the box ie the port, the sub, and all bracing. As for the rubber tabs i would taking with all the vibrations they might fall out but i just guessing.

i have taken the displacement into factor when im talking about the size of the box. and plus im using an external port which is just like a hole cut in the side. i dont know of any boxes that is cut in half after the displacement of the woofer and bracing though... i dont know what kind of boxes youre building. and with the tabs i was talking about they are basically a wedge that i would put on both of the sides of the board and drive them in with either my fingers or a mallet depending on how tight the connection is. they may or may not fall out but its worth a shot (they most like 45 cents for four)

[Hell-Razor 0]

And back to the subject. A head unit.... I dont mind a "dead" head unit sense I will be installing an amp to power my speakers. I would like one around 300$ with (or the option of having) blue tooth. I really want to be able to use my iPod as well...

[sqjeep 9]

And back to the subject. A head unit.... I dont mind a "dead" head unit sense I will be installing an amp to power my speakers. I would like one around 300$ with (or the option of having) blue tooth. I really want to be able to use my iPod as well...

This headunit would work great for you its has a 24 bit dac, comes ready for ipod and bluetooth.

Sonic electronix

As for the box i ment 10 cubes as the external dimensions and i thought the port would be in the box and yes it will go form 10 external to around 6 internal if you put the port in the box. And as for the pins it is totally worth a shot.

Edited August 31, 2009 by sqjeep

[Hell-Razor 0]

And back to the subject. A head unit.... I dont mind a "dead" head unit sense I will be installing an amp to power my speakers. I would like one around 300$ with (or the option of having) blue tooth. I really want to be able to use my iPod as well...

This headunit would work great for you its has a 24 bit dac, comes ready for ipod and bluetooth.

Sonic electronix

As for the box i ment 10 cubes as the external dimensions and i thought the port would be in the box and yes it will go form 10 external to around 6 internal if you put the port in the box. And as for the pins it is totally worth a shot.

only problem with that head unit is that it seems amplifiers dont work too well with it. well according to the one review it has, he says "The remote wire left my amps setting silent from time to time" when using this head unit. not sure what that means but i dont think its good. he also said he RMA'd this one after four days. i dont want something like this with the moderate to bad review.

[Hell-Razor 0]

how about a JVC KD-AVX77. little over my budget but offering a price on this it was offered to me at 476$. reviews on this one are awesome as well...

[sqjeep 9]

how about a JVC KD-AVX77. little over my budget but offering a price on this it was offered to me at 476$. reviews on this one are awesome as well...

Looks good but again you are buying extras you might not even use. But for the research i have been doing its hard get what you want for under 450

1. Here you can get that same headunit for 459.99 Woofers

2. The only other one that looks good is either the pioneer premier DEH-P980BT or pioneer DEH-P9800BT the difference between the two is one carries the premier name. Specs are the same. With this one you need to add the ipod controller for another $60. Which puts you right back at 459.98

3. So if it was me i would get the pioneer cause of the name, but if you intend to use the other features on the Jvc then go with that one.