Smokie's Focus Build

[shizzzon 461]

here is a design for you-

Note that i will not give port length because for competition, that is a pure trial and error thing to find out for yourself so the port lengths shown are for reference.

The picture shows a theoretical tuning of ~39hz, HOWEVER because i left some space to the left side of the box, the acoustical length could actually increase length by as much as 20" simulating the entire height of the box and then some resulting in a very low tuning.

Won't know til you try...

The pic shows dual 6" ports (aeros highly suggested) that will NET somewhere in the 5.5cuft range +\- .3cuft due to port changing.

The box is for a single 18 or can be used for a single 15 as well. If used for a 15, you could then add cornering. Do not add permanent cornering if using an 18 as the design is low on space but feasible.

[smokiethebear912 0]

here is a design for you-

Note that i will not give port length because for competition, that is a pure trial and error thing to find out for yourself so the port lengths shown are for reference.

The picture shows a theoretical tuning of ~39hz, HOWEVER because i left some space to the left side of the box, the acoustical length could actually increase length by as much as 20" simulating the entire height of the box and then some resulting in a very low tuning.

Won't know til you try...

The pic shows dual 6" ports (aeros highly suggested) that will NET somewhere in the 5.5cuft range +\- .3cuft due to port changing.

The box is for a single 18 or can be used for a single 15 as well. If used for a 15, you could then add cornering. Do not add permanent cornering if using an 18 as the design is low on space but feasible.

I would say 1 18" would be preferable. The depth is variable so if we need a bit more than 21" that would be fine just try and keep it reasonable as the deeper it is the less "trunk" in the hatch I have. In this design are those aeros pointing towards the drivers or passenger side? Would sub up port up allow for the whole width to be used to allow for more space? Is there enough depth to allow them to exit at the front and blow between the seats, and is that even a good idea with all that air constantly barraging my arm? I do like the idea of using the aeroports as I think they are more aesthetically pleasing. This setup will mainly be for daily driving so a bit lower tuning would be preferred. As far as bracing I have been wanting to try some fiberglassing so that was what I was thinking could be used to bond the corners with maybe some type of curved peice that then gets glassed in for proper airflow. How about even making 45's out of mdf then use some fiberglass to go over that.

What depth would be needed to be about what SSA recommends for a single 18" xcon which is Ported: 7.25-7.75ft^3@26-33hz Optimal

I know box size changes amp requirements re: power handling. I am most likely going to go with something like a Sundown 2000d or an Audioque 2200d depending on how much overtime we get in January.

40" Wide

19" High

21" Deep (variable but the larger it is the more "trunk I lose") so I would like to keep it reasonable

Oh this is an aside but I saw one design you did with a loading area for the front wave that you couldn't even see the speaker on. Is there a way to do this in this example as it would lower the thief want to jack me factor of seeing that beautiful 18" just sitting there as even when I re-tint the windows darker they can still see in the front window.

Edited November 16, 2009 by smokiethebear912

[brewer_brewer 0]

just saw this "build"

i have a 2002 SVT focus so i'll let you know what i did with mine to give some ideas for you

couple of setups i've had in it:

12" FI SSD off of a AQ 1200D

sub and port facing passenger rear tub. did a 144.3 on the dash sealed and a 146 even in the kick with door open.

18" RE SX motor with DC level 5 coil off of a Sundown 3000D at 4 ohms (i don't trust my electrical to drop to 1 ohm yet)

sub and ports up. did a 146 on the dash sealed but the low end is amazing. its tuned to 30 hz and makes my doors and windows wish they weren't attached to the car

box is 35 inches wide, 19 inches tall and 22 inches deep.

it fits perfectly between the rear "beauty panel" plastics and is so tight between the rear hatch and rear seats that i have to slam the hatch.

it sounds GREAT and gets LOOOOOWWWWWW

i have had to change a tire since i've had this setup and all it consisted of was disconnecting the speaker wires from the amp and pulling the box straight out. it was super easy and i did it by myself on the side of the road (other than the box being heavy it was a breeze)

GL with the build let me know if you need some ideas.

here is my old box. only had 10 square inches per cubic foot. just built a new one with 15 per foot and it sounds better (haven't put it on the mic yet)

brightened and sharpened the pic cause it was dark

Edited November 21, 2009 by brewer_brewer

[Don Ganso 13]

Hey smokie, if you're gonna ditch your amp, I might be interested. PM if you are curious. Looks like whatever you do will sound pretty bumpin'! Keep up the good work!