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gadgeteer123

15" xcon house build??

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I am gonna be building a sealed enclosure for my 15" xcon it will be powered by 300rms Its gonna be going in the front of my living room, Should I fire the sub down or point it at the wall? What size should my enclosure be for good deep bass response in a sealed setup? Any ideas or tips?

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Maybe in the 4.5 - 5 cube range.

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Positioning is going to depend on the room. Place the sub in your normal listening position then walk around the room to see where you get the desired response at, when you find it then place the sub there then enjoy in your normal position.

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I've typically build my subs down firing for safety purposes. I would hate to have someone/child put there foot through the cone. As far as placement, that is going to be trial and error.

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Why not run it ported???

x2

Or make a Tline for it, would be even better if you're only pushing 300W RMS thru it.

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Why not run it ported???

x2

Or make a Tline for it, would be even better if you're only pushing 300W RMS thru it.

I believe he is new to making enclosures and wants to start out on the simple side at first.

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Ported should be no problem. . .I would be happy to draw out some plans.

Simple box with (3) 4" PVC pipes would do the trick and be a nice improvement over sealed.

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The reason I plan on doing sealed is because this will only be for a couple months. If you can draw me up a easy to do ported enclosure tuned to 28hz that I can build with one sheet of 4'x8' mdf let me know.

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Also, I plan on having it in the same spot as my old sub which was a 15" kove and it was firing at the wall and sounded fine. But i was wondering if firing at the floor sound better or not?

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How about (4) pieces 16" x 44" for the 4 sides (makes the box 16" x 17.5" x 44" high)

(4) pieces 16" x 14.5" to use as the top, bottom, and a couple of window type braces.

Sub facing down or on the side (does not matter).

(3) 4" PVC pipes, 23" long for 28 Hz (why did you choose 28 Hz?). They can go in the top.

Only change I would make would be tune it to 25 Hz using 30" pipes and make the enclosure 45.5" high.

Either design can be built with 1 sheet of wood.

Brian

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well it can't be 44" high but it can be that wide, because it is going underneath a projector screen and there is only 22" clearance. So can you re-do those figures for me so that it is 20" high? Please and thanks. I picked 28hz because I was planning on doing 29hz when it was going in my car so it just sounded like a good number, but I will try 25hz.

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How about 20" high x 16" deep x 39.5" wide?

Cut list:

(2) 18.5 x 39.5

(2) 16 x 39.5

(4) 18.5 x 14.5

You would just cut (3) holes in the end of the enclosure that are the same size as the outer diameter of the pipe. Slide the pipe into the holes until it is flush with the side of the box and then use liquid nails inside the box to hold it in place.

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~5 cuft tuned to 25 Hz.

If you have the room, you can go 49" wide (width of a sheet of MDF, so you can still build from 1 sheet).

With the 49" width, change the port lengths to 22" and you will end up with 6.7 cuft tuned to 25 Hz. Will add some output, since you are only going to run 300 watts to it. You will still be well below it's mechanical limits.

Brian

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I don't care how wide it is just as long as it is only 20" high and 20"-25" deep I want good bass response along 20-80hz with great output. Also so it can be used from one 4'x8' 3/4" mdf board. where should I put the ports so there is no cancellation or anything??

Edited by Small Town Audiophile

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Well i'm leaving now to go get some mdf board. let me know anything you have to add, thanks for your help :)

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Also i like the 5 cubic foot idea, just incase I find a way to get some more watts to it. thanks

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I have my wood now, my pvc pipes and dremel tools. I will update with pics when i'm done either later tonight or tomorrow.

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Even if you get more watts to it, things change with power handling when you are tuned lower.

I would build it the larger size if you have the room. . .

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You can put the ports on one of the sides. Since it is under your screen, I woudl face the driver out into the room so you can see it :)

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How about 20" high x 16" deep x 39.5" wide?

Cut list:

(2) 18.5 x 39.5

(2) 16 x 39.5

(4) 18.5 x 14.5

You would just cut (3) holes in the end of the enclosure that are the same size as the outer diameter of the pipe. Slide the pipe into the holes until it is flush with the side of the box and then use liquid nails inside the box to hold it in place.

why are there 8 cuts of wood when there would only need to be 6 cuts????

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