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I hate to bring up a topic that I know has been discussed before, but I have some details about my particular scenario that may help you all help me on deciding what to do.

The equipment I have that is in question is as follows:

-Kenwood DNX-5120 Nav Unit

-Sundown 50.4

-Image Dynamics CTX65CS Components (4 ohm)

-Mach 5 MLI 6.5" (4 ohm)

First off, I have a handheld oscilloscope which I have used to set my gains using a 1kHz 0dB test tone as follows:

-EQ flattened and loudness off on head unit

-Kenwood DNX-5120 volume can be set to 35/35 without any noticeable clipping, however I set my listening limit to 34/35; at this volume roughly 2.3 VAC is coming from the RCA's, however moving the volume down a tick or two and it quickly dives below 2 VAC

-With volume set to 34/35 and 1kHz 0dB test tone playing I adjust the gains on the amp until I see clipping then back it off a little; ended up being around 18 VAC for each of the four channels

Now my problem is with my gains set as they should be with NO clipping according to my oscilloscope I am getting some engine whine through my speakers. And as I have experienced in the past, the quickest way to get rid of this whine is to turn down the gain until it is no longer audible. However, you loose volume output.

Also, I know that Nav units do NOT have the best sound quality or EQ features due to a lot of their power being used to provide numerous other features, such as navigation. With all of this being said do you think my setup is a candidate for a line driver installation?

And for those of you wondering what handheld oscilloscope I have, it is a TPI ScopePlus 440 TPI 440 1Mhz. Handheld Oscilloscope True RMS DMM,tpi440,tpi-440,tpi 440

Thanks!!!!

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A line driver or gain adjustment is not the solution to your problem. The solution is to identify the source of the noise, and solve that problem.

Please read the sticky on how to troubleshoot noise issues located HERE

If your issue is related to grounds, for example, then a line driver may actually compound the issue rather than "solve" anything.

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A line driver or gain adjustment is not the solution to your problem. The solution is to identify the source of the noise, and solve that problem.

Please read the sticky on how to troubleshoot noise issues located HERE

If your issue is related to grounds, for example, then a line driver may actually compound the issue rather than "solve" anything.

Where'd you get that killer avatar??? It reminds me Alex Grey's work

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It reminds me Alex Grey's work

Probably because it is Alex Grey's work :P

It's a painting title "Despair". I stole the image from his website, cropped and resized it into an avatar.

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It reminds me Alex Grey's work

Probably because it is Alex Grey's work :P

It's a painting title "Despair". I stole the image from his website, cropped and resized it into an avatar.

LOL :ehh: well im diggin it man!

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Just to reinforce what has already been said, a line driver won't help you but solving your noise issue will :)

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Thanks for the input fellas. I will do some trouble shooting to see about getting rid of the faint whine that comes through. Honestly, it really is not that bad.....if your not listening for it you more than likely will not hear it. However, due to me being somewhat of a perfectionist I am determined to get rid of it completely!

On another subject, what is a good signal processor that you would recommend? I see a lot of stuff about Rockford 3Sixty and various Audiocontrol products, but I would like to know what you all think would give me the tuning capability that my navigation unit does not provide.

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Thanks for the input fellas. I will do some trouble shooting to see about getting rid of the faint whine that comes through. Honestly, it really is not that bad.....if your not listening for it you more than likely will not hear it. However, due to me being somewhat of a perfectionist I am determined to get rid of it completely!

On another subject, what is a good signal processor that you would recommend? I see a lot of stuff about Rockford 3Sixty and various Audiocontrol products, but I would like to know what you all think would give me the tuning capability that my navigation unit does not provide.

It depends what your needs are or what needs to be improved, give us that information then we can find one that suits your needs and application.

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Depends on what you "need" for processing capability.

The RF is noisy, so you may not like it.

I'd also check your headunit ground. If you are using the stock ground I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't your culprit.

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I already have my HU grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. I learned from previous installs how crappy stock HU grounds can be lol. As for processing I was just looking for something that would allow me to better blend my sub stage with my front stage. I'm using my ID component set for my upper mids and highs, Mach 5 MLI's strictly as mids, and obviously the 12" Havoc for the sub stage.

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How are you crossing the Mach5's and the ID set now???

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Need to know your budget along with more details of current equipment, installation locations and system setting (crossover points/etc).

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Sorry I have not had the chance to provide the crossover point information because I have been on the road traveling, and I do not remember exactly what I have them set to on the amp. However, on my deck I have the sub at 80Hz (LPF) and both the Mach5 MLI's and ID component set at 80 (HPF). I will take a look at my amp crossover points tomorrow when I get a chance.

Currently the interior speakers are mounted in the stock locations. I have the tweeters from the comp set in the location of the stock dash speakers, the 6.5" from the comp set in the front doors, and the Mach5 MLI's in the rear doors. I know these are NOT ideal mounting locations, but my car is fairly new ('08 Altima 3.5SE) and I am trying to hold off on ripping it apart for a little while longer.

Budget wise I am willing to spend a few hundred dollars, but at the same time I am not trying to break the bank.

Thanks for the continued help guys!

Edited by SilkySmoove

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Currently your driver choice is really strange. Doubling up on frequencies doesn't work. If you keep all the drivers you have (which you shouldn't) you'll need something 3 way capable. The RF isn't. If you are changing processing though I assume you are changing drivers. What are you transitioning to?

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Currently your driver choice is really strange. Doubling up on frequencies doesn't work. If you keep all the drivers you have (which you shouldn't) you'll need something 3 way capable. The RF isn't. If you are changing processing though I assume you are changing drivers. What are you transitioning to?

I guess I'm not too astute on appropriate driver selection yet. Sounds like I have some research to do. What exactly are you referring to by me doubling up on frequencies, and what are some/type of drivers you would suggest? Keep in mind that I am looking to keep everything in the stock mounting locations for the time being.

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I finally had a chance to go out and check the crossover settings on my Sundown 50.4. I have the ID comp set high passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 50Hz and 500Hz. I have the MLI's low passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 500Hz and 5kHz. Sub-sonic filter is set exactly half-way in between 10Hz and 500Hz for each set.

I was thoroughly surprised to find everything set exactly half-way in between, because I set the filters by ear and never really looked closely at where the dials were set when I was done.

Ideally I would assume the tuning dials to adjust the frequency cutoffs linearly, however just by the nature of things I'm sure that is not the case. So your guess is as good as mines in determining a ballpark number for each of the settings described above.

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I finally had a chance to go out and check the crossover settings on my Sundown 50.4. I have the ID comp set high passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 50Hz and 500Hz. I have the MLI's low passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 500Hz and 5kHz. Sub-sonic filter is set exactly half-way in between 10Hz and 500Hz for each set.

I was thoroughly surprised to find everything set exactly half-way in between, because I set the filters by ear and never really looked closely at where the dials were set when I was done.

Ideally I would assume the tuning dials to adjust the frequency cutoffs linearly, however just by the nature of things I'm sure that is not the case. So your guess is as good as mines in determining a ballpark number for each of the settings described above.

I would adjust some of your settings, having everything up half way is really leaving your lacking some frequencies. Since you want to play the Mach 5 Audio speakers down low they should be in the front doors instead of rear doors if I read that correctly (really not getting a good midbass experience with them in the back doors especially with the subs in the trunk). I would run the MLI-65's from 60/80hz (Sub Sonic Filter set here) depending how low you have your sub crossed at, the Low Pass Filter @ between the halfway point and 3/4 point of the 50-500Hz range. Then I would try the components on high pass filter from 500Hz on up so you wont be overlapping frequencies, then play with the frequencies from there some more to personal preference but I would start in that area if you want to keep your current speaker setup. Just my .02

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I finally had a chance to go out and check the crossover settings on my Sundown 50.4. I have the ID comp set high passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 50Hz and 500Hz. I have the MLI's low passed, with the dial exactly half-way in between (dial perfectly vertical) 500Hz and 5kHz. Sub-sonic filter is set exactly half-way in between 10Hz and 500Hz for each set.

I was thoroughly surprised to find everything set exactly half-way in between, because I set the filters by ear and never really looked closely at where the dials were set when I was done.

Ideally I would assume the tuning dials to adjust the frequency cutoffs linearly, however just by the nature of things I'm sure that is not the case. So your guess is as good as mines in determining a ballpark number for each of the settings described above.

I would adjust some of your settings, having everything up half way is really leaving your lacking some frequencies. Since you want to play the Mach 5 Audio speakers down low they should be in the front doors instead of rear doors if I read that correctly (really not getting a good midbass experience with them in the back doors especially with the subs in the trunk). I would run the MLI-65's from 60/80hz (Sub Sonic Filter set here) depending how low you have your sub crossed at, the Low Pass Filter @ between the halfway point and 3/4 point of the 50-500Hz range. Then I would try the components on high pass filter from 500Hz on up so you wont be overlapping frequencies, then play with the frequencies from there some more to personal preference but I would start in that area if you want to keep your current speaker setup. Just my .02

Thanks for the input! I will probably take a break from this senior design project and try out your suggestions later on today.

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